Can anyone explain to me how to calibrate the tps. The car runs and idles, but at more than 1/4 throttle it bogs down and dies.



i unplugged the tps while its running and it didnt help the situation. unplugged the bac valve while it was running, and it just dropped idle, didnt die though.



any help is appreciated.



And still no tach, rpm gauge wont work for some odd reason, along with dash lights.



Thanks.

doesnt sound like the tps at all, but its easy to calibrate. look in the manual, and either make or buy the tps tester light setup. get the car hot. key on engine off, plug the tester into the tps connector, and adjust until 1 light is on. if you cant do that then the tps is bad.



if it was mine, i think id be looking at the ignition, the tach runs off of the trailing coil, no spark no tach...

Ok, well i checked spark from trailing coils, i have none. i jumpered a wire from leading black bullet to trailing bullet, and the tack worked. when i started it, it was idleing at 1500 rpm, and the bac valve air hose has to be off to start the car. hook it back up to the air intake hose, and the car dies.



would the trailing coils make it to where there is not enough spark to completely ignite the fuel and bog down on rev? and cause it to need more air to ignite when idleing?



i live in cali and cannot find any trailing coils to even try it to see if thats the problem.



i heard that a bad ground would also make the car act funny, but if i have good ground from the car for the leading coils to fire, shouldnt it be good enough to fire the trailing coils??



My dad is wanting to rewire the whole ecu harness but i dont want to do all the work if thats not the problem. all help is appreciated. thanks j9fd3s for the info.

Try and fix your trailing issues and move from there. You probably have idle issues also, but tackle one problem at a time.

yeah start with the basics first. if you suspect the grounds, go thru and clean and tighten em.

Well, here is the story. The car wouldnt start after a week of sitting. Im guessing the last time i started it i didnt let it warm up, and it flooded out when i shut it off.



so today i pulled the plugs, cleaned them and burned off all existing oil and fuel till they looked brand new. Turned the car over with egi fuse out to remove existing gas and dry the seal. Put oil in the spark plug holes and cranked it over by hand. added more oil( only a few drops at a time) and cranked over by hand once again. put plugs back in, and fuse, and tried to start it.



It tried to fire within 4 or 5 secs, but wouldnt. and to my surprise the tach was working.???? Havent replaced the trailing coils, so i didnt think it should work without them being replaced. (ordered the trailing coils, just not shipped in yet) So tomorrow i am getting all new plugs for the car, hoping they are just fouled due to flooding and causeing the no start condition.



But i was wondering, if the cats were plugged, would this also stop the car from revving up?? But let it idle?? Im stumped. i know most of the sensors are good, i checked them using a electrical diagnostic checker i made at home. And i know it works, cause it told me when my water thermo switch was unplugged.



Im stumped. New to rotary engines and need all the help i can get. Thanks for the previous replies.

plugged cats would only let it go as fast as 30 mph

Well i havent got the chance to drive it due to it not running well enough and tags being expired in 06. but its worth a shot i guess. ive tried just about everything i can think of.

this car has been nothing but a headache and im shooting in the dark right now about whats going on.

i think its still flooded. um i'd put the new plugs in, and unplug the circuit opening relay, its under the dash, sort of right above the drivers right knee. i dunno who thought of the egi fuse, but the circuit opening relay cuts the fuel pump only, and not spark PLUS you can reach it without leaving your seat.



so unplug the relay, and crank, it'll start and run for 10seconds, then you can plug the relay in, and it'll usually start right up.

there is something i never though of doing. thanks ill try that tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

i know what you mean i had a car like that i spent too much time and money one it and sold the headache to someone else for $400 it was a 87 honda crx si 5 spd that kept on over heating after radiator and cap 5 thermostats and a waterpump not to mention a head gasket too

Once you get the car running again, yes it's quite possible the pre cats or the main could be in trouble because these motors have much higher exhaust temperature than most other cars due to design. Add mileage and hello failure. Car will be quiet running and labor to get much more than idle if it failed. What I can suggest to test is cut a slot or wedge out of the pipe in front of the main first then further up in front of pre cats, or drilling series of holes etc. If they are shot your need pipe work anyway so keep damage low. (wear eye protection) There are a lot of decent replacements out there and pre cats are not needed in most areas. Ok wont get too deep here but stock tune requires some backpressure for any motor to run best on the street and a good working cat wont take really too much if anything from performance. All I am saying on that as I am sure others have another veiw on the issue!



By the way got my daughters camaro home when the cat failed with a cordless drill, car would barely move and cost of towing owch!

ok, well i replaced the plugs, all 4 and the car fired right up. Still wont rev up past 1/4 throttle.



and still no tach. So i will have my trailing coils in soon, and ill change those out. if tach still doesnt work my next step is to change plug wires.



Then for the rev issue, im not sure how my dad wants to check cats, probably just put a wedge in between the manifold and first cat. open it up enough to check it, but not enough to drastically decrease backpressure.



thanks for all the help. oh and for fastenough, i used to own an 88 camaro. they are just as much a headache as the rx7, just a little less complicated though. bought mine for 400, and 6000 dollars later, decided to sell it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

well if you can get under your car knock on the cats to see if its broken up you would here a really easy to know noise if it was

Ok, here is the scoop. the cats are good. nothing loose, and didnt solve my rev problem. but one thing i keep forgetting to mention is that to start the car, and keep it running the bac valve air hose that connects to the air duct has to be disconnected. i dont know if that has something to do with why it wont rev or anything, but the car seems to be starving itself for air. IDK???

have you tried to rev with it off?? and see if it works then ?? then you can figure out if it has anything to do with it or not

yes i have. if i put it back on the car bogs down and dies. i hooked it back up today after it warmed up, and it spit and sputtered while idleing and tried to die, and when i tried to rev it up with it hooked up, it sputtered and backfired then died.



i read somewhere that you can check the bac valve by unplugging it while the car was running, and if it lowered idle, but didnt die, that it was still good. so idk.



Maybe air control valve system is bad, no clue.

have you tried searching other sites??? maybe someone had a similar issue to yours try that test that you read about if you havent already um kinda out of ideas

yeah ive read quite a few of em. but nothing is pointing me in the right direction so idk.



but as soon as my trailing coils come in, and i put them on the car, if the problem isnt solved ill probably end up paying 300$ for mazda to run a diagnostic on the car to trace the problem. hopefully it will only be one issue, not a list of them. but thanks for all the help anyways, i apreciate it.

hope its something easy to fix and not some major work you cant do

Yes hopefully. well as soon as i get the trailing coils in they will go in the car, and hopefully it solves my problems.



ill keep you all posted.

and when is that going to be?

im not sure. but they still havent come in.



im starting to get really impatient.



but i started the car today and idleing the oil pressure reads a little above thirty.

but if it idles for about 2 minutes without me touchinh the throttle, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero. its starting to worry me a little.

maybe theres something wrong with your oil pressure gauge or maybe its the sensor thats bad

my dad had talked to a rotary specialist and that guy said that if the oil sensor is bad, or the wires arent getting a good connection, then it tells the computer not to let the car rev up.



im not sure about how true this is, and have not read anything even slightly similar to this action.



i know the oil pressure sending unit is the one closer to the oil filter, but what is the sensor that goes into the bottom of the oilpan??



im just trying to get some clarity on how exactly that would work, but cant find anything.

do you have one of them repair guides cause if you do then look in that

well i have been doing some research for a while now, and i found out that it is the Oil level sensor. and around that same area there is a couple of plugs that are just kinda hanging there.



im now trying to find out which color wire is the proper one to hook up to that. and if the specialist was right, and the sensor is either hooked up wrong, or just plain broke, this could solve my rev problems.



who knows?? could be anything now. lol. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

well at least you have helpful people on this forum and not a bunch of useless people posting

yeah i know. i dont know what i would be stuck at if i didnt find this website.



today is the 7th day from when the coils had been shipped. they should be in today hopefully. they are coming ups. :( i emailed the guy to see if he got a tracking number when he shipped them, and i am just waiting on a reply. thanks everyone for all your help. thanks Ricer J

i got zero help when i had trouble with my last car on the honda-tech forums stupid people

ouch that sucks. i got lucky with my last car too. 88 chevy camaro, i had thirdgen.org to help me out with that one.



im only 20 and ive gone through 5 other cars besides this one, and this rx7 and camaro are the only ones giving me problems.



82 toyota pickup, 85 s10 blazer, 66 chevy pickup( loved that truck), 87 S10 pickup, 88 camaro, 88 rx7. maybe i just wasnt meant to have a car that was made the year i was born. hahaha.



anyways, still no luck on the trailing coils. i think i got ripped off. this sucks. i guess ill give it one more day, then ill try to find other ones.

maybe i just wasnt meant to have a car period im 22 and i have had as you can see 3 other cars and ive been driving since i was 18

yeah, well i think its californias fault. damn emissions!!!



im thinking about getting another 66-68 chevy pickup. that thing was a beautiful restore project, and hauled balls for just a small block 305

are you in Cali as well??? and where/how did you buy your coils?

ebay, im not really sure where they are coming from. i think texas. but my mom had to order them cause she had the account, not me.



but yeah, bakersfield. my cousin wants me to move to freemont though. not sure about that.

why didnt you just make an account it takes 5 mins if that and well you know where i am cause i posted it in my profile which shows up here and do you know how they are coming?? did he say when they were shipped??

well they came in today. i put them in the car...... and nothing changed. it still runs the same. well i cant say nothing, cause now the tach works. but the car still bogs down and dies, at 2000 rpms.

well at least something good came of it lol have you thought about i hate saying this but have you thought about taking it to a shop to have it checked

yes i have.but my dad would be the one to fund that part of it. which he was telling me today he was looking at a beretta for 300 today that i could drive instead of fixing the 7. HELL NO i will not drive that kinda car. id rather walk.



im still trying to talk him into it, because mazda will run a diagnostic on it for 300, then i would be able to fix the problem.



its up to my dad i guess. but with me not having a job, its a little hard to keep this car, due to the high price of maintenance.



i keep you posted on what decision it comes down to.

well i hope you can keep your 7 since its always hard to find something thats good enough to work with i got a job and a person i can go to if i ever need help on a car so im kinda luck plus theres always these forums