2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

88 n/a rx7 with s5 tII swap *Help*

Old 12-18-2007, 07:14 PM
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Ok, i would like to thank everyone up front for there help.



So basically i found someone who was selling a rx7 locally for 1000, the catch: engine wouldnt turn, so i offered to give him 6-700 for it without the engine and trans, he said that would be great. so, the only problem i have is persuading my parents to actually let me sell MY s10 and get this. im probally going to be looking at it on friday the 21st. im 16 and i know a bit about cars for my age, mostly via forums and such like this



ok so, i was first thinking about first gens as i like the looks and such but i could not find a nice deal on one for a while and i found this car. so after i found this i was thinking to myself 4 port n/a street ported? well of course the n/a's are all 6 port unless were talking the old carb'd ones, and i would just rather have a fuel injected anyways. so i came across a pretty good deal (depending on what you guys think of a deal does not concern me ) but i found a jdm dealer whos selling a 100% complete engine for about 1500 shipped. were talking everything. well of course its going to have ONLY 30-40k miles, and i know how those damn japanese run there cars, lol. but ya, basically i was wondering besides that, what would i not neccessarily need but compliment for the turbo II?





im thinking

rb full performance exhaust - which i heard because the backpressure raises the boose to 10-12 psi which in turn gives about 50 hp

turbo timer - one of those cheap ones off of ebay for like 40 dollars

boost controller - dont know if it is needed nor recommended with this engine seeing how its going to be stock minus the exhaust.



last question, with less backpressure from the exhaust is the cpu going to run bad? now with this as the only real upgrade to the engine what cpu(s) or chips would you recommended, with price but performance in mind?



thanks again,

dillon
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:11 PM
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Welcome to Nopistons.Com first of all.



Let me tell you from personal experience most JDM motors are rebuildable cores "AT BEST" I purchased a 13B-RE motor that was stated to be compression checked here in the us and pulled from a running car in japan. When i recived the motor and started to dismantel for inspection when i loosened the turbos the whole manifold and engine where full of rust water, in other words the motor was garbage. Maybe 1 out of 10 are in good running condition.



The myth of the 30-40K Mileage of the motor is a poor estimate "AT BEST" they only multiply average miles driven in japan bye the year of the car the motor was from which could be very far from actual mileage.



Doing a TII swap requires more than just the motor read in the FAQ section about doing a TII swap



About the racing beat exhaust the backpressure does not raise the boost it is the reduction of restriction that allows the turbo to breath eaiser allowing it to produce more boost. Any thing over 6 psi on a S4(1986-1988) and 8 psi (1989-1991) will cause the computer to hit fuel cut. Also bouncing from fuel cut to not can cause a lean condition and bye bye motor.



And the all important builders pyramid



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Good and Fast is not Cheap

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Old 12-19-2007, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' post='890429' date='Dec 18 2007, 08:11 PM
Welcome to Nopistons.Com first of all.



Let me tell you from personal experience most JDM motors are rebuildable cores "AT BEST" I purchased a 13B-RE motor that was stated to be compression checked here in the us and pulled from a running car in japan. When i recived the motor and started to dismantel for inspection when i loosened the turbos the whole manifold and engine where full of rust water, in other words the motor was garbage. Maybe 1 out of 10 are in good running condition.



The myth of the 30-40K Mileage of the motor is a poor estimate "AT BEST" they only multiply average miles driven in japan bye the year of the car the motor was from which could be very far from actual mileage.



Doing a TII swap requires more than just the motor read in the FAQ section about doing a TII swap



About the racing beat exhaust the backpressure does not raise the boost it is the reduction of restriction that allows the turbo to breath eaiser allowing it to produce more boost. Any thing over 6 psi on a S4(1986-1988) and 8 psi (1989-1991) will cause the computer to hit fuel cut. Also bouncing from fuel cut to not can cause a lean condition and bye bye motor.



And the all important builders pyramid



Fast

Cheap Good



Cheap and Good is not Fast

Good and Fast is not Cheap

Fast and Cheap is not Good



Chris




well my friend has been trying to persuade me to just get this car with the transmission and engine and just get it rebuilt and street ported, along with a nice carb. now im sure most of you second genners probally wouldnt like this idea im starting to lean towards it. i would get it rebuilt with 4 ports instead of 6, than i would get a larger street port along with a nice carb to finish it off. this mechanic does great work for cheap as he build my friends 13b for his first gen.



what 1/4 numbers would i be expecting with a large street port, (recommended carb here), and a 3" full exhaust
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Old 12-19-2007, 03:13 PM
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Low 15's high 14's. A n/A RX7 stock is a 15-16 second car.



Add a wet NOS kit pilled to about 75 HP and you would be in the low 14's high 13's.
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Old 12-19-2007, 03:29 PM
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well a large streetport i thought could run low 14s maybe 13's
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:35 PM
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not n/a maybe bridge port but not large street and all available bolt on's under drive pullies light flywheel 4.30 diff MSD oald ait intake for the carb and a really light car maybe low 14's high 13's "MAYBE"
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' post='890474' date='Dec 19 2007, 06:35 PM
not n/a maybe bridge port but not large street and all available bolt on's under drive pullies light flywheel 4.30 diff MSD oald ait intake for the carb and a really light car maybe low 14's high 13's "MAYBE"


what kind of hp would you figure out of a carbed 13b 4 port that was

a.streetported

b.half-bridge

c.full bridge



thanks, i might end up doing half bridge with a 600 - 650 cfm holley. along with a 3 inch full exhaust.
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:00 AM
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"What kind of hp" is a question with to many variables to ask. I found out the hard way that it is a question that is best left unasked and more so ask your self how much HP do you want set a realistic goal. don't expect a 300 hp N/A on anything less than a peripheral port with more than likely a shot of n2o. and on a bridge you might get around 200 but you will loose street drivability and will need to rev the engine further up in the rpm's to get that power which adds to build cost since you need to have the rotors clearanced and have the rotating assembly balanced and oil system needs to be up to par. it is not a toss it together and run deal it takes alot of planning and alot of research when you want to do a build. you need to decide what you want your car for before you decide what path you will take in building it.



Look at my 86 it has been apart for more than 2 years and i am finally starting to build it now.

I decided that to make my 350-400hp streetable im going to use a 13b-re motor half bridged with a gt4088r or a to4z turbo and I have a standalone and a fmic and im am gonna run a water injection kit for added saftey
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Old 12-20-2007, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' post='890495' date='Dec 20 2007, 08:00 AM
"What kind of hp" is a question with to many variables to ask. I found out the hard way that it is a question that is best left unasked and more so ask your self how much HP do you want set a realistic goal. don't expect a 300 hp N/A on anything less than a peripheral port with more than likely a shot of n2o. and on a bridge you might get around 200 but you will loose street drivability and will need to rev the engine further up in the rpm's to get that power which adds to build cost since you need to have the rotors clearanced and have the rotating assembly balanced and oil system needs to be up to par. it is not a toss it together and run deal it takes alot of planning and alot of research when you want to do a build. you need to decide what you want your car for before you decide what path you will take in building it.



Look at my 86 it has been apart for more than 2 years and i am finally starting to build it now.

I decided that to make my 350-400hp streetable im going to use a 13b-re motor half bridged with a gt4088r or a to4z turbo and I have a standalone and a fmic and im am gonna run a water injection kit for added saftey




well i guess im going with a t2 anyways, ill probally get the car for 500 or so than ill get the motor and go from there, my plans are to get a full rb 3" exhaust, fmic: 3" piping?, turbo timer, boost controller, and how well will the jspec ecu handle 10-12psi boost? and im keeping the n/a drivetrain >< except for the transmission. i wouldnt need a tII driveshaft etc would i? would a transmission be all i need?
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:55 PM
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no j spec tII is same as US TII ECU so it will hit boost cut over 8 psi



The N/A drivetrain is not strong enough for tII power it might hold if you baby it but what is the fun in that?



As far as the TII trans in the n/a you need to have a custom made driveshaft since the TII tranny is longer than a N/A tranny. mazdatrix makes a tII tranny to n/a rear drive shaft so you would need
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