87gxl going super slow and struggles to get to 3k rpm at stop
05-24-2009, 09:18 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='921998' date='May 23 2009, 11:58 PM
ill look again but im still confused
its the pinkish fuse closest to the engine .. and your looking at the big fuses by the battery just in case u didnt know but i hav a switch for that .....
i think its the intake now cuz the problem i had was probally a loose spark plug wire and now it starts to 1k and die instantly and it only did that with the intake off so i gotta figure it out lol
05-24-2009, 09:21 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='921880' date='May 21 2009, 08:54 AM
check compression, if thats good, id say plugged exhaust
im sure it has sumtin to do with that it does make sence but i hear a new kind of sound in the intake when it trys to work and before it totally died before it had a vacuum leak sound so im looking for that
05-25-2009, 12:22 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='922054' date='May 25 2009, 12:56 AM
i see a 5 spd swap that you need to do in the near future and that pinkish fuse by the battery is one of my egi fuses
i know i need that swap lol but the pink fuse is the fuel relay thats closest to the engine thats whatthe switch was hooked to and i pull that then try starting it to release all the fuel you hav stuck in the engine then reput fuze back then it should start
05-25-2009, 12:22 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='922054' date='May 25 2009, 12:56 AM
i see a 5 spd swap that you need to do in the near future and that pinkish fuse by the battery is one of my egi fuses
i know i need that swap lol but the pink fuse is the fuel relay thats closest to the engine thats whatthe switch was hooked to and i pull that then try starting it to release all the fuel you hav stuck in the engine then reput fuze back then it should start
05-26-2009, 12:44 AM
#17
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someone already told me to pull both and crank with WOT for no more then 10 secs 3 times then replace and try to start i did that but all i got was a new sound like it actually wanted to start but something was stopping it from turning over and even though i have my air intake off the tb it should stop it from turning over right? since everything is still hooked up right
05-26-2009, 06:56 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='922083' date='May 25 2009, 10:44 PM
someone already told me to pull both and crank with WOT for no more then 10 secs 3 times then replace and try to start i did that but all i got was a new sound like it actually wanted to start but something was stopping it from turning over and even though i have my air intake off the tb it should stop it from turning over right? since everything is still hooked up right
check your coolant especially see if there is a lot of pressure in your coolant after you try to turn it on .... cuz to much pressure makes it not start ...so after you unflood it once you put the fuse in open the coolant filler cap and put back on if you have pressure then it should start and you also have a broken seal like me but i kinda fixed that
05-26-2009, 11:48 PM
#19
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well i get pressure after a few seconds and im finding trace amounts of coolant by the y pipe/end of cat and the start of same cat and then that funky line that runs to that cat has a coolant drip to it too so 3 spots in total if i redo the deflood method should i try with one rad cap off to see if it at least gets it started
05-29-2009, 08:41 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='922115' date='May 26 2009, 09:48 PM
well i get pressure after a few seconds and im finding trace amounts of coolant by the y pipe/end of cat and the start of same cat and then that funky line that runs to that cat has a coolant drip to it too so 3 spots in total if i redo the deflood method should i try with one rad cap off to see if it at least gets it started
i never checked by the cat lol but just every time you deflood your engine make sure you burp the coolant if you get pressure fast cuz it wont start with high pressure
