87
10-14-2001, 05:31 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 3
My RX seems to have a flooding problem. #1 rotor has low compression because the apex seals are stuck in, but the atf treatment freed up the rear seals, and they have perfect compression. I have gotten the car to start before and it ran fairly smoothly. The car sat for a year before I bought it and had crappy gas as well. Now, when I turn the engine over, it almost starts, then stops firing and I get a VERY strong fuel smell. The spark is very strong, but if I pull the plugs after turning it over, they are drenched in gas. if i let the car sit for a few hours, it will almost start then stop firing just as before. my fuel pressure is fine and the exhaust flows freely. I am stumped and as a new owner am considering junking the car , any suggestions would be very helpful thanxx
10-14-2001, 10:13 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
You said both rotors have normal compressions right? And all apex seals and springs are functioning properly? Are you sure ur timing is on? U should check out our ECU. Or maybe its just bad gas. I had an experience with that. My rex wouldn't start for days. I had cranked it like 60 times 
And it wouldn't start. after like 60 cranks it would start then it would kill. I finally got it to stay running and it would smoke and smell like some nasty ****. Then if i let off the gas it would kill. So it kept that gas down until it began to idle rough but not kill. I let it sit and smoke for couple hours. Then i got new gas and runs great ever since! 
Hope this helps
And it wouldn't start. after like 60 cranks it would start then it would kill. I finally got it to stay running and it would smoke and smell like some nasty ****. Then if i let off the gas it would kill. So it kept that gas down until it began to idle rough but not kill. I let it sit and smoke for couple hours. Then i got new gas and runs great ever since!
10-17-2001, 06:52 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 121
i used to have problems with my TII flooding when i first got it... and then i found out that when you start the car up it goes into a warmup process and idles higher, which means more gas... and if you shut the engine off before it completes this warm up process the next time you start it it thinks it's in the warmup process still and floods it.... so I put a kill switch to my fuel pump so that when i get this problem I can just kill the fuel pump and crank it to get the gas out of it.... but just to see if that is the problem or not you should disconnect the fuel pump and crank it over for about 20 seconds or so to get the gas out of the engine and out of the lines.... then conenct it again and see if it will start.... the easiest way to disconnect it is to pull up the carpet in the back and you'll see a plate with a few wires coming out it, that will lead to a plug which should be (in my 88 atleast) a foot or so from the plate and just disconnect it....hopefully this works
- Matt
- Matt
01-01-2002, 01:16 PM
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 7
If you don't have good compression in the front rotor you will flood the engine because you probably got some blow by and pumping fuel in there thins out the oil which you need for compression. What do you have for PSI at compression check?
If you smell fuel is at the exaust or the engine bay? When you have it running does your cat get cherry red? There are a couple of things it could be let me know. Been there. Gary
If you smell fuel is at the exaust or the engine bay? When you have it running does your cat get cherry red? There are a couple of things it could be let me know. Been there. Gary
01-01-2002, 02:15 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA, USA
Posts: 1,622
I would do the compression test like ghebert suggestted.
You should try to crank it dry. Pull out the EGI fuse which is on the drivers front strut tower. Crank it drive for a few 30 seconds at most. Then as you crank again have someone put the fuse in. IT would try to start, if it stops have the person pull it out again while you crank and put it back again, till you get it started. Keep the throttlr wide open.
I would also do the atf trick but crank it dry with it an dlet it sit for a while and then try the crank it like I told you before.
C
You should try to crank it dry. Pull out the EGI fuse which is on the drivers front strut tower. Crank it drive for a few 30 seconds at most. Then as you crank again have someone put the fuse in. IT would try to start, if it stops have the person pull it out again while you crank and put it back again, till you get it started. Keep the throttlr wide open.
I would also do the atf trick but crank it dry with it an dlet it sit for a while and then try the crank it like I told you before.
C
01-01-2002, 02:16 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 790
The one problem with Rotary's are once they flood it's a pain in the *** to unflood them. Mine did once from having a dead battery, it was enough to power the fuel pump and barely turn the motor, which then flooded.
Try the fuel pump relay trick (pulling it which stops the fuel flow while you start it), if that doesn't work (it didn't in my case) I had to do step #2 which is pull the plugs and squirt motor oil into the spark plug holes and then put them back and start it. This worked like a champ..... but it smoked for a good 20 minutes (DO THIS AT NIGHT!!!!)
Try the fuel pump relay trick (pulling it which stops the fuel flow while you start it), if that doesn't work (it didn't in my case) I had to do step #2 which is pull the plugs and squirt motor oil into the spark plug holes and then put them back and start it. This worked like a champ..... but it smoked for a good 20 minutes (DO THIS AT NIGHT!!!!)
