2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

86 N/A EFI>CARB AND BRIDGE PORT

Old 12-20-2006, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='849724
There is no need to touch the ignition. Leave it stock all you need to do is remove the manifolds and bolt up the new one with carb. The ECU doesn’t know or care if the injectors are actually there or not. However the P iron will care if they are not present so leave them there unhooked or plug them.



I prefer Webber carbs.



The money you are spending on carb would give you the EFI system needed.


I am not planning to buy these items new, in fact im trying to spend little to no money, this is not a project that im dumping money into. I am not concerned about gaining the ultimate horsepower money can buy, im just having some fun and making it the least cost possible.

Side note:i only pulled the motor for the porting, it wasnt blown it ran just fine (only 30k miles on mazda dealer rebuild).
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='849724' date='Dec 20 2006, 11:42 AM
the simplest is to get the coils, distributor and stuff from a 1st gen, it bascially just bolts onto the car
And that gives you control over timing split also.
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' post='849744' date='Dec 20 2006, 04:26 PM

And that gives you control over timing split also.


The who to what?
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Old 12-20-2006, 04:01 PM
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That’s an awful lot of work for a weaker outdated system.



The first gen modules suck. And theres a lot of spark loss thru a cap. Then there is the 100 and something dolor mitsu modules you want to replace with the cheaper GM ones. Lot of wiring there to down grade.
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Old 12-20-2006, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by iceblue' post='849748' date='Dec 20 2006, 05:01 PM
That’s an awful lot of work for a weaker outdated system.



The first gen modules suck. And theres a lot of spark loss thru a cap. Then there is the 100 and something dolor mitsu modules you want to replace with the cheaper GM ones. Lot of wiring there to down grade.
Too much work for Iceblue Performance?
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Old 12-21-2006, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by iceblue' post='849748
Too much work for Iceblue Performance?


Thats like someone who only sees things one sided, you cannot change their mind no matter what you do.
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Old 12-21-2006, 07:28 AM
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Nothing wrong with carbs IMO. I'm pushing 150bhp/litre on mine.
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Old 12-21-2006, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ChainSawOnSteroids' post='849790' date='Dec 21 2006, 07:05 AM

I have read another post where you have said the same thing basically, downtalking the carb because its so outdated, although i am greatful for your input this is not helping. I am looking at my options to see which will be the cheapest way to go and the most simple, so if you can not add something usefull to me then i would appreciate you not adding at all.

Side note: many people succesfully run carbs and dont have any problems.

Thats like someone who only sees things one sided, you cannot change their mind no matter what you do.


How is this not helpfull to you?

That’s an awful lot of work for a weaker outdated system.



The first gen modules suck. And theres a lot of spark loss thru a cap. Then there is the 100 and something dolor mitsu modules you want to replace with the cheaper GM ones. Lot of wiring there to down grade.
I just told you why not to use the first gen ignition system and keep the FC ignition. Putting weaker spark and more expensive components in it just doesn’t sound to smart to me.



Ronin is just an *** who neglects to see the 1000hp 501 big blocks with duel 3 barrel 1100dominators tunnel ram we’ve built.



If you switch to carb are you going to tune it? Or just guess? You have to buy a lot of parts for the carb where most used EMS's can be found for -500 and -300 at times. Then all you need is someone’s old 550cc injectors. Granted you need a tune but if you’re going to tune the carb that’s the money there also. So I honestly do not see a price benefit.



I also gave you the advice from 30+ years of team research that I we like Webber carbs. If you ask me you have gotten very decent information from what you have asked so far.



Granted I agree with changing the manifold with this setup over the OEM EFI manifold the FC has now. A manifold along the lines of a down draft carb would work nicely from a street and minor tune standpoint. Probably bettor then the EFI manifold it has.
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Old 12-21-2006, 12:14 PM
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i agree on a couple of points.



1. carbs are probably MORE expensive than efi, all said and done, new to new. its not just the carb, but the fuel pump, plumbing etc etc, where for efi, its just the ecu/wiring/laptop. manifold is prolly the same.



2. webers are nice, but for an application where the primaries and secondaries have way different port timings a holly/4barrel is prolly better
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Old 12-21-2006, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by iceblue' post='849805' date='Dec 21 2006, 12:00 PM

If you switch to carb are you going to tune it? Or just guess? You have to buy a lot of parts for the carb where most used EMS's can be found for -500 and -300 at times. Then all you need is someone’s old 550cc injectors. Granted you need a tune but if you’re going to tune the carb that’s the money there also. So I honestly do not see a price benefit.


Why you still tryin to sell EFI to the guy?
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