Alright i finally got my car back together after having the injectors cleaned. I also ripped out the rats nest under the intake and capped off all the vacuum nozzles. I ran the fuel lines directly to the fuel rails. I also put the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the dynamic chamber. I checked all connection and it will crank and spark, but no combustion. I also primed the fuel system too. It worked perfectly before i took it apart. I'm going to wait till my dad gets home and check the fuel pump and computer codes. Any ideas y it won't start?

Are you sure you hooked up the fuel lines correctly?

Are you sure you hooked up the fuel lines correctly?[/quote]

yes. but will check again to make sure. From memory: the one from the fuel filter goes to the secondaries, and the one from the primaries goes to the other metal line? right?

Are you sure you hooked up the fuel lines correctly?[/quote]

yes. but will check again to make sure. From memory: the one from the fuel filter goes to the secondaries, and the one from the primaries goes to the other metal line? right?[/quote]

No, the one from the fuel filter goes to the primaries, and the primaries go to the secondaries. From the secondaries you go back to the return line.

thxs, got that problem solved. I connected them wrong because the metal fuel lines crisscrossed, and i didn't see that until now. Ok it will start and run. It runs rough and erractily. If i revv it high it will kill. Its idling at 600rpm and the power delivery is very rough. I think i have a vacuum leak. Any more words of wisdom?

Yeah, it sounds like a vacuum leak. I had that problem once.

Which vacuum lines or nozzles did you plug? Also, is there any reason as to why you did all this, or just trying new ideas? I love new ideas https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

just bored and my car was in storage anyway. Wanted to clean it up and get rid of some crap. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png I capped of the 2 on the lower intake, just below where the ac&cv was. the 2 on TB( or maybe they're on the dynamic chamber?), on the side closest to the cabin. 1 on right below the BAC and 1 on the oil filler neck. everything that was connected to all those metal lines and the 4 solenoids.





p.s. How do i get into the moderators group? i think its bout time. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Use a can of starting fluid or choke cleaner or ever using a spray bottle of water and spray while the engine is running around areas you worked. LIke at joints, duct connections, and vacumm hoses. IF you hear the engine actually clear up and rev better up by itself you found the leak.



Becareful, choke or starter spray is flammable, watch were you spray if it is hot.



Where all the elect connectors pluggin and in good shape??



C

the idle and power deliver is starting to get better. I torqued down the bolts on the BAC and the upper to lower intake manifolds. But it still isn't running perfect. There is still a vacuum leak, and i can't ******* :madgo: figure it out. I have capped off all the vacuum lines checked and rechecked them 10000x times. I can't hear where its coming from because; one my clutch fan is too damn loud, my cone filter makes the same sucking sound, and my exhaust is very loud, even at idle. I tried spraying **** and even using propane, i can't find it. There are not that many placed either,since i have no emission pieces. I'm going to check my vacuum pressure tommorrow w/ a gauge. Does anyone know what it should be at, and if it changes w/ taking off vacuum using **** i.e. ac&cv?

If you don't find the leak then check your intake manifold for cracks.

ya its still has a vacuum leak somewhere. but gettting better. I took it apart( for the damn 3rd time) and i i had left some of the old gasket on. i figured its got be that unevenness, but damn that **** is so hard to get off. I pic at it for hours and get like 1/100 of it off. Also i heard that i need to keep the Crankcase Breather, when removing the solenoids and rack, wtf is that? Is it the black piece that plugs into the wiring harness and has 2 big vacuum lines on it? And there are no cracks on intake. Im starting to get very frustrated :( bout to snap.

I think i figured it out. Man u guys are really gonna laugh at me. I forgot to put one of the nuts back on that tightens the TB to the dyanmic chamber. It was underneath so i didn't see it. I also didn't torque down the bolt and nuts on the upper to lower intake manifolds, this time which squeezed out alot of the RTV gasket maker. I gonna let it really seal since its ******* cold up here. Then torque it down once the RTV turns into the gasket. I also did a little mod. There was a radiator hose that ran to the BAC, then to the TB, and off to the block. Instead i ran it directly to the block to clean **** up and make it simple.

It's probably better to just run the hose from the block directly to the water pump. That will; let you remove the BAC valve as well.



When you remove the coolant going to the TB make sure that the fast idle cam is either removed or disabled. Otherwise your idle is going to stay at 1500-2000 RPM.

Yeah i ran it directly to the block. i also finished the TB mod.

Which removes coolant flow to the TB; removes the secondary butterflys in the TB and the rod; and links the coolant hose directly under the upper intake manifold straight to the block. And it also removes almost everything on the TB

All i need now is some JB Weld to patch up the holes from the secondary butterfly rod.

I also removed the BAC. What all do i need to do, just unplug, remove & plug the holes? Is there any draw backs/gains?

Man my under my hood is lookin bare. Only thing left is to get rid of is the OMP & MAF, when i get haltech ofcourse :sigh: .

Yeah i ran it directly to the block. i also finished the TB mod.

Which removes coolant flow to the TB; removes the secondary butterflys in the TB and the rod; and links the coolant hose directly under the upper intake manifold straight to the block. And it also removes almost everything on the TB

All i need now is some JB Weld to patch up the holes from the secondary butterfly rod.

I also removed the BAC. What all do i need to do, just unplug, remove & plug the holes? Is there any draw backs/gains?

Man my under my hood is lookin bare. Only thing left is to get rid of is the OMP & MAF, when i get haltech ofcourse :sigh: .[/quote]

You could always just tap the holes and plug them up with NPT plugs instead of using JB weld. Yes, just make a blockoff plate for the BAC valve. It will make everything look alot cleaner.

thxs. what does the BAC do anyway? and how did coolant flow control the fast idle cam?



Heres a link to the TB MOD:

K2RD

Do i need to keep this piece? I see in comes in contact w/ the TB cam thingy. The fast idle cam and spring were underneath it.

The BAC valve controls the idle. There's some wax inside the TB. When it gets hot and melts the fast idle cam is disabled.

If you're going to remove the butterflies then remove it.

FYI : to remove old gasket, the easiest way is to get an air gun, with a wire brush attachment, and it will come right off...takes less then 5 minutes... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

if you remove the BAC how is idle controlled? i installed the haltech and ran the coolant line straight to the block as well... my car is idling around 1300 RPMS...is it because of the fast idle cam? my car has always idled high for some reason...never idled below 1k RPMs....

I usually use a razor blade, or even a hammer and chisel. That works well, and is slow enough so that you don't get pieces of the old gasket flying into the intake manifolds.



My idle was always fine without the BAC valve. Your high idle may be due to the fast idle cam. Is it removed or disabled? You may also want to try adjusting the TB with the adjustment screw.

use an air blower and blow it all out :p until i read this post i knew nothing of the fast idle cam...so i assume that it is still enabled...

or you can also plug the holes with something as well... i used shop towels, and i used a shop vac to get all of the little pieces out before removing the towels...

If you're going to get junk in there it's better to remove the manifolds completely.

blah....like to take the long routes eh? hehe....j/k yeah it's always good to get it done completly right and not mess up... but i like shortcuts and I haven't replaced the gasket everytime that I have pulled the manifold off either...that would be over 10 gaskets already ??? I've only replaced it once...it hasn't needed a new one any of the other times I've pulled it off... that manifold has been on and off of my car so many times it's unreal...

Whenever I take shortcuts I always get burned. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png I don't replace the gasket every time I remove the manifold either. It can be re-used quite a bit, as long as it still looks ok.

There is a smoke generating machine that will pressurize anything and if there is a leak (vac,coolant,oil and exhaust ) it will show up. all depends how hooked up. I have a machine call Vacutech at my shop and I know Snap on sell something close to it. I have fround more vac. leak with this than i can count, and it is very safe.

My car was Running* it ran like **** though. Then i did the TB MOD, got rid of the charcoal canister, got rid of the BAC and removed all the old gasket. Now it will not run at all. Runs for lkike 3 sec then dies. what the **** is wrong with my car? i used a torque wrench on the bolts so its not them, capped all the lines on the Charcoal canister and used JB weld to plug the holes for the TB MOD and the BAC removal. There are no cracks on intake and there is a new gasket. WTF? :madgo: :madgo: I have checked recheck and tried ever fuckiong thing sprayin **** does'nt work. And yes it is vacuum leak. It makes the vac leak sound. PLZ HELP

I once had a hose that would come loose every time I put the manifold back on. That was frustrating.

Is your MAF plugged in?

I didn't touch the MAF sensor, and i already checked that. It is really driving me nuts. My dad said it sounded like the engine was starving for gas, but when ever i shut it off or its kills it makes the big vacuum sound. I work on this ****** car evey night trying to get it to work, i got it down to 8 minutes to take her apart and 7 to put in back, i've down it so much i could do i blind folded. Its gotta be something i did though, becuz it ran great before it took her apart. :frown:

I looked into the smoke pressurization thing and only shops have that, i would look like a fool takin it in after all those mods. :shakehead:

When I put my exhaust on I forgot to plug the MAF back in, and it would start for a few seconds, then die, sounded like your problem, but I guess not. Are you sure you got everything capped off, and going to the correct place? So you think that it is something to do with your TB mod?

If there are any leaks at all in the duct between the air flow meter and the TB the car will run like crap.

-----I checked my MAF sensor- plugged in.



-----Checked all plugs and vacuum holes no leaks at all, used several methods.



----- I was spraying carb choke to test the upper to lower intake manifold seal, and after i took it apart again I noticed carb cleaner was on my gasket! WTF? I have a new gasket, no old gasket on there( smooth ), I used a torque wrench on the nut and 4 bolts, to specification. I am almost certain the vac leak sound is coming from that area. It must be that damn thing. So i used a lot of RTV gasket sealer and didn't squeeze it out, gonna let it sit and form for a week, then torque the bastards down.



gonna try and narrow it down once again.

ps. *spark plugs still fouled by atf trick*

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/devil.gif well dipshit I think u severely fucked it up. Just kidding man ill take it apart with u again if needed and check all the vacuums!

shutup no rx7, *cough* i mean kenny..... j/k replaced plugs and will find out friday when the RTV is has turned in a gasket. keepin those figgers crossed :(

finally got this **** down. I was using some carb cleaner again. This time i noticed the engine rev up a little and start sounding better. becuz i had a board against the gas pedal, instead of a friend revving the engine. I can see the carb cleaner suck into the intake, wtf?

- what sealant do u guys use? the bare gasket doensn't work ( and yes its clean, dry and everything is smooth )..

- i tried rtv copper ****--- lets just says it is ****...[B]

Well at least it looks like you are getting closer to finding the problem. :thumbsup:

OK! dammit, i finnaly got that ******* lower to upper intake manifold leak fixed. It turns out there was 2 leaks, so i thought the ****** leak on the lower to uppper manifold was never fixed, and sometimes i could hear leaks with the vacuum hose and then i would take it apart and put it together again and i couldn't hear anything, but it still wouldn't run so i thought there was still a leak there. I finally got a vacuum gauge and found out that it FOR SURE was a vauum leak. I have checked all othere possible spots and found the other ******* leak. It was really loud and coming from under the upper intake manifold so i can;t see it or see where the vacuum hose is testing. So i hear the vacuum suck get really loud throught the vacuum hose. I carefully let it still there and removed the upperintake manifold. It seems to becoming from the lower manifold to engine GASKET. WTF! i think there is a leak there. I remember gasoline getting spilt there many times and probably left down there since i could get all of it out. could that fuckiong gasoline have seeped down into that gasket and have eatin it away???



JESUS CHRIST IM GOING TO TAKE THIS ******* PIECE OFF **** ITNO THE GODDAM SHOP BEFORE I TAKE A ******* CROWBAR TO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!