Ive been asking myself this question for a while. It would basicly require just about the same parts for each of the swaps from na form. The 20b would be harder but more enjoyable right? Anyway since the engine in my vert has over 130,000 i was just thinking ahead to when it finally blows and what to do then. A 20b vert would kick *** though :yum:

 

Talk to mike about 20b swaps.See if he recommends it.That alot of $$$ to spend!

 

You could probably obtain a 13b-rew for cheaper than a 20b and alot of people are going very very fast on 13b-rew's. Parts for a 13b-rew will be easier to find in the now and future too, considering they have actually been sold here in a recent production vehicle.

 

13bt would be easiest and yield plenty of power.

 

yah the swaps work out like this

1. 13bt super easy bolt in, cheapest too

2. 13b rew, either the fd or the cosmo motors, they require motor mounts, and minor fabrication, you could limp along on the stock ecu too, more money than 13bt, more power potential (slightly), they fit under the stock hood and look cool.

3. 20b, expensive, has the most power potential, also requires the most work/ custom fabrication. the 20b also has lots more torque than any 13b, even in stock trim



mike

 

arent there some places that make a replacement subframe to run the 13b-rew in an fc?

 

if i didn't have my FD my TII would have a 20B in it but i quickly realized its costs ALOT of money!!!

 

when vosko says something costs alot you know you don't want to touch it.

 

lmao

its a good thing i bought the t2 off you vosko or you would be in well uh........ even more debt i guess

 

depending on how crazy you go with the 20b its not crazy money



mike