1990 Vert Alarm system location
02-05-2009, 12:23 PM
#1
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I searched and searched and couldn't find any answers. My haynes book says the alarm system box should be under the glove box, but it isn't there.
My alarm works half the time and is annoying and I would like to just remove it and be done with it. Where is the alarm box located?
My alarm works half the time and is annoying and I would like to just remove it and be done with it. Where is the alarm box located?
02-05-2009, 01:00 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='916105' date='Feb 5 2009, 12:55 PM
I dont think you can remove the alarm entirely, I mean I could be wrong.
I believe the problem lies in the body computer, its a fairly cheap piece.
I believe the problem lies in the body computer, its a fairly cheap piece.
But isn't there a theft computer somewhere? The problem lies in the driver side door lock to arm the system. I guess I could fix the wiring harness for ther connector, or replace the switch but I'd rather not. I am extremely broke, I just spent $700 for an oil metering pump.
02-05-2009, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jjwalker' post='916107' date='Feb 5 2009, 01:00 PM
But isn't there a theft computer somewhere? The problem lies in the driver side door lock to arm the system. I guess I could fix the wiring harness for ther connector, or replace the switch but I'd rather not. I am extremely broke, I just spent $700 for an oil metering pump.
Sorry for the double post, but if anyone can still tell me the location of the alarm box I would appreciate it. I want to unplug it for now until I can replace the door switch.
02-05-2009, 03:40 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='916116' date='Feb 5 2009, 03:38 PM
$700 for a OMP? if it was leaking they sell rebuild kits and DVDs for $25. Its literally like 4 or 5 o-rings in the kit.
It was totally dead.
02-07-2009, 10:25 AM
#7
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Nobody knows eh?
Oh well I guess I can't complain too much. The car has only cost me $1200 in maintenance and purchase price and is in really good shape (interior is flawless except defroster vents). The engine is good, the no oil leaks...
All of the electrical issues I have fixed myself and all ended up being bad connectors or solder joints.
Oh well I guess I can't complain too much. The car has only cost me $1200 in maintenance and purchase price and is in really good shape (interior is flawless except defroster vents). The engine is good, the no oil leaks...
All of the electrical issues I have fixed myself and all ended up being bad connectors or solder joints.
02-07-2009, 10:42 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by jjwalker' post='916218' date='Feb 7 2009, 10:25 AM
Nobody knows eh?
Oh well I guess I can't complain too much. The car has only cost me $1200 in maintenance and purchase price and is in really good shape (interior is flawless except defroster vents). The engine is good, the no oil leaks...
All of the electrical issues I have fixed myself and all ended up being bad connectors or solder joints.
Oh well I guess I can't complain too much. The car has only cost me $1200 in maintenance and purchase price and is in really good shape (interior is flawless except defroster vents). The engine is good, the no oil leaks...
All of the electrical issues I have fixed myself and all ended up being bad connectors or solder joints.
Since I can't edit my post, I'll go ahead and add that the issue seems to be within the driver side door lock. The switch contacts are probably worn out I imagine and if I move the switch just right, it fixes the issue.
02-07-2009, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='916223' date='Feb 7 2009, 11:14 AM
why dont you try removing the handle and cleaning the contacts inside, a piece of sandpaper folded up to clean the metal
I have removed the door panel before but I cannot recall what the switch looked like on the back side. Is it an open style or will I have to remove a cover from it?