Who's rebuild kit would you recomend for a (best bang for the buck?) 1988 turbo II rebuild kit to get it to 300hp daily driver? how much? links? also how much does the turbo II motor weigh(1988)? is it worth it and more cost effiect to rebuild the motor or to put a SBF in it with granny's kit?

I say stick w/ all stock OE parts and that means mazda factory 2mm 2 piece seals.

Get FD corner seals and corner seal springs.

FD Oil pressure regulator is nice too.



and for 300hp, you can just do a hybrid w/ full exhaust. Intercooler upgrade would be a good idea.

I say get a standalone and do it right, but it can be done w/o it.



I assume you mean 300rwhp, and not flywheel?



No need to port or anything

hybrid? you mean t3/t4 turbo uprade or huh? i am new to rotarys series so bare with me please.

By hybrid I believe he is referring to 'hybridizing' your turbo. Meaning, changing compressor wheels, etc, depending on what 'stage' you go with. BNR upgrades are popular, you can check out the different stages here:



Edit: I'm trying to link you to an area on RX7 store dot net but it keeps changing the URL to google.com... don't know what teh deal is. Maybe we aren't allowed linking there? o_O



The popular upgrade is called a BNR Upgrade. Just google it.



-Ryan

waiting for mine to come back from bnr hes really nice and cant beat his prices go to www.bnrturbos.com

so basically porting the turbo? -i got a buddy of mine with an mr2 that can do that kind of stuff- for free - that is if that is what you mean by that. would it not be just more efficent albeit to replace the turbo or not? i know on the DSM cars (ie talon laser eclipse) if you port the 16g it still actually provides quite a bit of power. that is one of the cheap do it yourself upgrades.



so how cheap is it to get power out of these engines? eh?

BTW i just got finished over the phone with DG motors here in MN they do alot of rotary stuff i heard from friends of mine. he mentioned there was a better motor between the "open port" and the "bridge port" if i am getting that right.



which is the better motor- why- and what years? if you will.

the stock turbo is like a small t4, so you can put a larger compressor on it (stock one is small) and then it needs a little wastgate porting for boost control...

i have been reading at http://www.robrobinette.com/index.htm (kick arse website btw) and i am curious what intake would you recomend fora balance of performance and reliability? a ported stock? a aftermarket? ect.?

i would'nt take my car to a shop that calls a port job an "open port". i've never heard of it.



but yeah, contact bnr, they have TONS of satisfied customers.

for 300hp you dont need a port, or a fancy intake, just a bigger turbo

ok- well that being said do you mean rwhp? i do. also lets put this in perspective.



roughly what kind of power (each on their own) is this going give out for the t2 engine?



1.Intake



2. 3" down pipe



3. Cat-back exhaust



4. High-Flow Main Catalytic Converter



5. Mid-pipe



6. mild porting



7. bigger turbo from bnr (porting and bigger wheel)

you don't need porting to gain 300rwhp.



oh, included in all of that, you will need a VERY GOOD TUNE!

With the tune (i belive there is an adaptor for it) but i will be useing a real time emulator callled the Ostrich by Moates.net craig is a god for cheap. he is the 2 doller penguin prostitue down at the street corner https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif all kidding aside my experience with him and his product is very good- with hondas. :( bleh

so the product is good with hondas? eh, whatever dude.

depends on boost. over 10-12psi, you're gonna need more fuel and some way to control it....

word or you can say buh bye to your nice new engine lol

trust us when we tell you these things. that's what we are here for. jwteknix is going through a project right now, j9fd3s has built up 20b FC's, knows the ins and outs of the rotary engine very well.



we are here for tech information. but you are asking about turbo's, i don't know much about them.

also you cant give power #';s for each mod. each mod effects the overall power, one combination of mods will produce one result, another combo will produce another.



i dont like stock **** so i block, bypass, and remove crap. but if you wanna stay stock-ish. get a BNR turbo upgrade of your stock turbo, downpipe, high flow cat, 3" catback, some way of managing fuel (SAFC, RTek, etc), 720cc secondary injectors, clean your primary injectors, get a nice tune for around 12psi. You'll have enough power for a month or two and then youll be back craving some more https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif.



kevin.

^^^ say hello to my mentor

no i - kinda hate hondas with a passion.......



also i will be using moates.net for tuning - if craig can come up with an adaptor for me. the ostich and his other products a cheap and GREAT for tuning dataloging ect.



hmm- i guess the question on what do these each provide power on was kind of a dumb question https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif sorry guys. again i am a newbie to the rotarys you are the gods https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/bowdown.gif of them and i am your biatch right now - sorta. trust me i am going to try to not drop the soap... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif



either way do you guys know any shops up here in mn (i am from the anoka area) that i can pick their brains about rotarys more in person?

Honestly, the way you learn rotaries is failing many many times, and picking yourself up again. You learn from the mistakes you make.



Your best bet for a tuning is to use an ECU made for the rotary engine. Look at the megasquirts, they are relatively cheap to get, and have been ran on all kinds of motors, not including the rotary engine. Also have been ran on the 20b. ColinRx7 I believe runs one, and so does Jeff20B on one of his MANY project cars.



There are tons of options out there to get to 300rwhp, you just gotta have the money. I honestly don't know any shops or builders around MN. Look in the midwest section of this forum.

you better not drop the soap youll be in trouble lol any way good luck with your new toy keep us posted and dont be afraid to ask questions

well- i am now hearing about the turbos crack on these and they are overheat easily. what can remedy this?



also if i am looking to make this more realiable as it were- as i am hearing more about how unreliable they are- what do you sujest doing other than not driving it at all? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif new turbo? or a better one that is rebuilt from another car- say a 16g- a new intercooler? ect??

the turbos arent a real reliability concern but they do crack but its usually the exhaust manifold or the turbo flang where it meets the manifold and is usually from running lean fromm larger amounts of boost if your fuel system gets upgraded you shouldnt have a problem

damnit, stupid double post. sorry

never heard of turbo's cracking. the compressor wheels get some shaftplay after a while, and the manifolds can crack from excessive heat, and it just gives out. remember rotaries run between 1400-2000 degrees.



Yeah, doing modifications to a turbo system is more than just a turbo, downpipe, wastegate, manifold. There is fuel system, fuel pump that needs to be upgraded. And upgrading the fuel system is NOT cheap. It'll nickel and dime you to death. Not to mention standalone and a tune( street or dyno) just to get everything set up right. And if you have a bad motor, you will have a much harder time.

oh good that makes me feel ALOT better. thanx a bunch man!

well i am not afraid of tuning. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

well you should be lol nah im Jk then your one step ahead

i got a buddy up here that has a brother in law that has a shop fro 35 bucks will let us tune anything we want within a day. thats not bad- to me.



what kind of engine manament are you guys using anyhow? for bang for the buck- (by the way - me likes cheap!)

megasquirt if you want to go cheap. just go to ECU discussion for any information. seems to be a strong ECU. it's kind of a create your own ECU.



or you can go to haltech.com. also have motech and wolf. but those get pretty pricey.

im using rtek 2.0 it works pretty i think its the bes bang for the buck work well for me and i have more then 300 whp ask your tuner friend what he perferrs to tune with

do any of you guys use daughter boards at all? rather then a stand alone?

thats the way it used to get done, but at this point theres a couple of problems.



1) nobody in the states does it



2) the wiring and stuff is usually pretty beat up by now, and then the stock sensors (afm...) are maxed out anyways...

well i know that is how it is done to the KA24DE-T guys with the nissans- 240sx. So how much are we talking for a piggy back or a stand alone fuel management system- other than mega squirt - i realy never liked mega squirt - from my understanding - and correct me if i am wrong BUT you are doing the ENTIRE ecu over again with mega- and then when it comes to other systems your not you are just doing the spark- the fuel/air- timeing- boost - ect. i would rather not mess with some of the more - cruelial aspects not with out a program to play with....



albiet is there a eprom chip in these ecu for the fuel at all? if so i could just chip it. i have done that with the fords and the dsms.

or because the sensors are maxed out anyway will chipping it do anything? or make it so i can do anything?

for 300 whp all u need is a rtek chip but if you want adjusibility and tuning feature for more power i would go with rtek 2.0 it uses the stock harness and is vey easy to use but anything more then that i would go full standalone

got a link ? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

here you go buddy enjoy

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=...=2&ecu=S4T2