Just wanted to see if anybody could give some info/advise on swapping a n/a motor with a Tll.........like if theres any conversions or anything. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif
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There are lots of topics on it, Hit the search button at the top. I am sure it has been outlined in deatil a few times. But if not, it is very posible, just depends on how far you want the swap to go and how much money you want to spend on it.
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thanks for the tip, i found what i was looking for....and for anybody else that is still confused here is what i found, hopefully it will help...
How to: Coverting N/A to TII parts list: TII Motor complete i.e manifolds,turbo,injectors,intercooler..... Turbo wiring harness TID Turbo Hood or get a front mount Turbo boost sensor (strut tower) selenoid resistor Turbo Airflow meter Turbo ECU Turbo acc cable So Ill make a little write up and post some visual aids tomorrow (digi cam batt dead) NA prep:::::: lift up the passenger side carpet and you will see a metal shield that houses the ECU disconnect the ECU pull out ecu there's more yellow /orange on the side disconnect those too including a small white plug that is hooked up to a brown boost sensor looking thingy open hood pull out charcoal canister and wiper reservoir gently start pulling the wiring out next disconnect all the chassis wiring oil sensor engine temp sensor spark wires take out rad and fan lift car drain oil disconnect oil lines disconnect fuel lines ( you might want to yank out the fuel pump fuse and spin motor to remove fuel pressure) becarefull with the front ones you need 2 wrenches then get back under car disconnect starter motor bolts then top motor bolts ac lines remove top manifold powersteering lines disconnect and remove na airflow meter disconnect and remove boost sensor disconnect whole exhaust leaving the exhaust manifold but a jack under the tranny so it don't fall double check everything is clear to yank motor out complete Ok get engine hoist hook up chain to rear and front cast housings remove the motor with alt,water pump,bottom manifold etc intact 2 things to consider 1: Do you want to keep your current drive train (tranny and diff) 2: you want to drop a whole TII engine and drive train (expensive unless you find a donor car) In my case I found a 88 Turbo II motor complete with ECU,boost sensor wiring harness,intercooler turbo for $600 spent another 600-700 rebuilding and porting the motor I did not however have the Turbo tranny or starter or drive shaft or rear end so what to do? Easy! My SE was a 87 so I swapped the Turbo flywheel and front counterweight and put the n/a counter parts. Note) Don't install 89-91 counterweights on a 87-88 engine eccentric shaft has different balance Once my engine was put together (all pollution stuff removed makes installation a breeze) I put the turbo manifold and turbo on the engine put the bottom intake manifold on installed the meter oil lines top breaks just install silicon hoses plastic to oil injectors. make sure you hook up a vacuum like to the fuel reg to a vacuum source there one on the bottom manifold by the injectors then hooked up the wiring (fuel injectors, water pump sensor TPS etc once you got most of the wiring pugs hooked up It's time to install the engine into the bay This the tricky part especially when doing it alone get the engine hoist and chain to the rear and front cast housings put a jack underneath the tranny and lift the tranny all the way move engine over rad support keeping it centered get it close to tranny. Once lined up slowly let the engine down till you see the trannys shaft go into the clutch. Now lower the tranny a bit and try wiggling the engine to get the shaft to seat inside the pilot bearing.( you might have to lower or rise tranny a few times while pushing the engine towards the tranny for it to seat properly) The bitch here is getting the motor mounts to line up the passenger side mount is the easy one install the rubber mount to the body and the cover the engine mount will fall on this The driver side has the bolt the needs to go thru the chassis good luck here took me a good hour to get it in Once you see that the top rear housing of the motor is pretty flush to the tranny put a bolt on the top by the passenger side to keep the motor from disconnecting from tranny when your lowering the tranny all the way OK your almost there finish bolting the motor up, hook up the main oil lines install starter install the mazdatrix down pipe(recommended $115 now we need to pass the wiring warness ecu plugs thru the firewall pass the plugs one at a time then go inside the car and pull the plugs till it reaches the ecu area There's one white plug that hooks up to a brown boost sensor looking one. The yellow plugs are easy, you cant mix them up cause there different sizes ,only the correct ones can plug into ecu go ahead and install the rad+fan and hoses hook up the temp sensor oil temp rad sensors solenoid resister-big white plug in front of passenger side strut tower. Now for the top manifold place on top of bottom manifold making sure it has a new or good condition gasket bolt it up hook up throttle position sensor manifold pressure sensor alternator wires install TID and airflow meter bov and vacuum hoses to thos parts like the boost sensor 3 way tee maybe a 4 tee for a boost gauge install intercooler tighten all clamps real good hook up fuel lines new spark plugs You need to replace the NA accelerator cable with a Turbo one much longer wraps around motor add water and coolant install batt DO NOT put the spark wires yet get in car crank the motor to let oil lub the motor and the turbo (15 secs or so) Now hook up the spark plug wires get back in car *prey* LoL wait a few secs for fuel to build pressure turn the key after a few motor spins waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr she Lives! she Lives!! cough* cough* Oh my the smoke after a few min outside the smoke will go away next get a custom 3 inch exhaust go to track run 13's *I might of forgot some stuff but that's the jist of it |
man thats alot of stuff just for a swap. might as well by a turbo 2 instead.
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its very easy my first swap was 2hours all you need is n318 pressure sensor you can use your na maf n332 ecu, harness ,motor with uim and all the plumbing, down pipe ,your na harness could work if you match the ecu pins
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