podguy

Just wanted to see if anybody could give some info/advise on swapping a n/a motor with a Tll.........like if theres any conversions or anything.

Clarks7

There are lots of topics on it, Hit the search button at the top. I am sure it has been outlined in deatil a few times. But if not, it is very posible, just depends on how far you want the swap to go and how much money you want to spend on it.

podguy

thanks for the tip, i found what i was looking for....and for anybody else that is still confused here is what i found, hopefully it will help...





How to: Coverting N/A to TII





parts list:

TII Motor complete

i.e manifolds,turbo,injectors,intercooler.....

Turbo wiring harness

TID

Turbo Hood or get a front mount

Turbo boost sensor (strut tower)

selenoid resistor

Turbo Airflow meter

Turbo ECU

Turbo acc cable



So Ill make a little write up and post some visual aids tomorrow

(digi cam batt dead)



NA prep::::::



lift up the passenger side carpet

and you will see a metal shield that houses the ECU

disconnect the ECU

pull out ecu

there's more yellow /orange on the side

disconnect those too

including a small white plug that is hooked up to a brown boost sensor looking thingy



open hood

pull out charcoal canister

and wiper reservoir

gently start pulling the wiring out

next disconnect all the chassis wiring

oil sensor

engine temp sensor

spark wires

take out rad

and fan

lift car

drain oil

disconnect oil lines

disconnect fuel lines

( you might want to yank out the fuel pump fuse

and spin motor to remove fuel pressure)

becarefull with the front ones you need

2 wrenches

then get back under car disconnect starter

motor bolts

then top motor bolts

ac lines

remove top manifold

powersteering lines

disconnect and remove na airflow meter

disconnect and remove boost sensor

disconnect whole exhaust leaving the exhaust manifold

but a jack under the tranny so it don't fall

double check everything is clear to yank motor out complete

Ok get engine hoist

hook up chain to rear and front cast housings

remove the motor

with alt,water pump,bottom manifold etc intact





2 things to consider



1: Do you want to keep your current drive train (tranny and diff)

2: you want to drop a whole TII engine and drive train (expensive

unless you find a donor car)



In my case I found a 88 Turbo II motor complete with ECU,boost sensor

wiring harness,intercooler turbo

for $600

spent another 600-700 rebuilding and porting the motor



I did not however have the Turbo tranny or starter or drive shaft

or rear end

so what to do?



Easy! My SE was a 87 so I swapped the Turbo flywheel and front counterweight and put the n/a counter parts.



Note) Don't install 89-91 counterweights on a 87-88 engine

eccentric shaft has different balance



Once my engine was put together (all pollution stuff removed makes installation a breeze)

I put the turbo manifold and turbo on the engine

put the bottom intake manifold on

installed the meter oil lines top breaks just install silicon hoses

plastic to oil injectors.

make sure you hook up a vacuum like to the fuel reg to a vacuum

source there one on the bottom manifold by the injectors

then hooked up the wiring (fuel injectors, water pump sensor

TPS etc



once you got most of the wiring pugs hooked up

It's time to install the engine into the bay



This the tricky part especially when doing it alone



get the engine hoist and chain to the rear and front cast housings



put a jack underneath the tranny and lift the tranny all the way

move engine over rad support keeping it centered

get it close to tranny.

Once lined up slowly let the engine down till you see the trannys

shaft go into the clutch. Now lower the tranny a bit and try wiggling the engine to get the shaft to seat inside the pilot bearing.( you might have to lower or rise tranny a few times while pushing the engine towards the tranny for it to seat properly)

The bitch here is getting the motor mounts to line up

the passenger side mount is the easy one

install the rubber mount to the body and the cover

the engine mount will fall on this

The driver side has the bolt the needs to go thru the chassis

good luck here took me a good hour to get it in

Once you see that the top rear housing of the motor is pretty

flush to the tranny put a bolt on the top by the passenger side to keep the motor from disconnecting from tranny

when your lowering the tranny all the way



OK your almost there

finish bolting the motor up, hook up the main oil lines

install starter

install the mazdatrix down pipe(recommended $115



now we need to pass the wiring warness ecu plugs thru the firewall

pass the plugs one at a time

then go inside the car and pull the plugs till it reaches the ecu area

There's one white plug that hooks up to a brown boost sensor looking one.

The yellow plugs are easy, you cant mix them up cause there different sizes ,only the correct ones can plug into ecu



go ahead and install the rad+fan and hoses

hook up the temp sensor

oil temp

rad sensors

solenoid resister-big white plug in front of passenger side strut tower.



Now for the top manifold

place on top of bottom manifold

making sure it has a new or good condition gasket

bolt it up

hook up throttle position sensor

manifold pressure sensor

alternator wires

install TID and airflow meter

bov

and vacuum hoses to thos parts

like the boost sensor

3 way tee

maybe a 4 tee for a boost gauge

install intercooler

tighten all clamps real good

hook up fuel lines

new spark plugs



You need to replace the NA accelerator cable with a Turbo one

much longer wraps around motor





add water and coolant

install batt

DO NOT put the spark wires yet

get in car

crank the motor

to let oil lub the motor and

the turbo (15 secs or so)



Now hook up the spark plug wires

get back in car

*prey* LoL

wait a few secs for fuel to build pressure

turn the key

after a few motor spins

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr



she Lives! she Lives!!

cough* cough* Oh my the smoke



after a few min outside the smoke will go away



next get a custom 3 inch exhaust

go to track

run 13's



*I might of forgot some stuff

but that's the jist of it

RyoNishi

man thats alot of stuff just for a swap. might as well by a turbo 2 instead.

milenia

its very easy my first swap was 2hours all you need is n318 pressure sensor you can use your na maf n332 ecu, harness ,motor with uim and all the plumbing, down pipe ,your na harness could work if you match the ecu pins