RAPS

Greetings fellow wankle supporters. I am new to this but i have been upgrading and tuning the snot outta my 87 N/A SE for a while now. I have already done the intake, exhaust, suspension, ignition and an APEXi S-AFC. i hear that wireing up the 6 port actuators is a good way to get solid HP improvement as well. What is involved in doing this? Is there a link to a cook book for this procedure?



Here is the present state of my CSP SCCA racer:



1987 RX-7 SE (N/A, base model, 4 lug)

Bonez intake filter (K&N type)

Bonez race pipe (no cats at this time, I have the Bonez double high flows for passing CA emmissions)

Rotary Performance (rx7.com) dual cat backs with Y pipe

Jacobs Ignition upgrade with wire set etc.

'90 GTUs LSD Diff swap (with the 4.30 gears)

Tokico Illuminas all around w/ matching springs (complete package)

Racing beat swaybars front and rear

Cusco strut bracing front and rear

Kumho Victor Racer tires for AutoX'ing (R14 55/205 on the stock wheels) I have some 17" enkei wheels w/40/215 Kumho 712s for the street. The Race tires on the stock wheels really hookup on the track and improve gearing and times significantly.

APEXi S-AFC

Haltech Haltuner A/F meter w/O2 sensor



PLEASE HELP ME!!



thanks

Leetheslacker

No dont buy it!



Wiring open your 5th and 6th ports loses torque down low.



In the 2nd gen FAQ section i think theres a writeup/link to make them actuated off of a small compressor, try looking there.

pk797

The wiring or opening of the aux. ports(5 & 6) on the n/a rotaries is a popular yet faulty misconception and one that will not afford you any real Hp gains. In fact you will loose a good portion of low end power by performing the mod you spoke about.

The aux. port system was designed by Mazda to give there n/a rotaries more power up top without scarificing low end torque normally associated with larger port designs. In theory it's very similar to Honda's V-tec principle without the vavles associated with Honda's piston engines.

In any event you can try it but don't throw anything out because chances are after you drive it around for a little why'll you'll be putting it all back again.

j9fd3s

i did it to mine, but its theoretically the race car and if i'm under 3500rpms somethings wrong.



the attachment is a good picture of the actuators in the closed position, to wire em open they nee to be pulled off and you spin the rod and tie it down. you will loose power under 3500 rpms, while gaining nothing up top unless the actuators were stuck/sticking



mike

pk797

That was my point your going to perform a so called "modification" that cost's you low end power and gives you what in return? nothing.

Unless like i93f3s pointed out your actuators were stuck in the closed position in the first place.

Instead of all that just make sure your actuators are clean and rotating freely the way the were meant to.

FCmaniac

If you're autocrossing like you say, you will hate having them wired open.. we need all the torque we can get and its damn hard to keep the revs above 5-6K the entire time your on the course unless you downshift to first on certain hard turns.

j9fd3s

yeah mine is a dog on the freeway, nothing under 4k



mike

RAPS

Thanks everyone,



All the good replies is why I posted instead of just trying it out. No Aux Port monkey b'ness except to check them and clean them as needed then... correct?



I am fairly happy with my car and it's performance, the super AFC really did help in the low end. We found at the dyno/tune shop that the stock ECU was WAY rich below 3500 RPM, causing it to lug. As a matter of data, while my engine is idling now, the AFC is doing a -20% conversion, which means 20% less fuel than "standard" ECU output. The ratio ramps up smoothly (everything is smooth on these rotaries...) as it nears the magic 3500 mark and then feeds up to +10% approching 7000RPM. Significantly better launching and I can't wait to share my newfound performance with the other CSP AutoX chaps next Sunday... LOL!



Great forum and thanks again for the kind words.



ron