** How Do You Properly Bleed The Cooling System..?
#11
look really carefully at the yellow sticker on the upper radiator hose, above that is a provision thats aiming to the passenger side, thats the bleeder screw.
maybe its a s4 thing, I dunno
maybe its a s4 thing, I dunno
#14
Oh... Okay. I see what you're askin' you want to know how to burp the air out of the coolant system.
::shakes head:: Nevemind.
I thought you were askin how to FLUSH the thing.
Yeah. If you remove an opening at the farthest point at the TOP of the loop, that's where the air will "settle."
You can either take the radiator a LITTLE bit off so that it spits, and then starts to flow liquid, or just use the screw.
OBVIOUSLY you do this when the engine's cooled. I don't think I have to explain WHY this is a good idea... Do I?
IF that procedure is safe to do, wouldn't it only work if you remove the t-stat first? and refill with distilled water, not hose water.
It doesn't matter, either way. The water going in is going to flow OUT at the bottom. Hell, you could **** in it, for all that it matters - albeit not REALLY recommended. That method works great to cool down race engines, in a pinch... 'Course we have an adapted radiator cap that we can screw a pressurized water source onto. That way we don't have to worry about the whole radiator cap explosion thing.
Try it ONCE. You'll see what I'm talking about.
::shakes head:: Nevemind.
I thought you were askin how to FLUSH the thing.
Yeah. If you remove an opening at the farthest point at the TOP of the loop, that's where the air will "settle."
You can either take the radiator a LITTLE bit off so that it spits, and then starts to flow liquid, or just use the screw.
OBVIOUSLY you do this when the engine's cooled. I don't think I have to explain WHY this is a good idea... Do I?
IF that procedure is safe to do, wouldn't it only work if you remove the t-stat first? and refill with distilled water, not hose water.
It doesn't matter, either way. The water going in is going to flow OUT at the bottom. Hell, you could **** in it, for all that it matters - albeit not REALLY recommended. That method works great to cool down race engines, in a pinch... 'Course we have an adapted radiator cap that we can screw a pressurized water source onto. That way we don't have to worry about the whole radiator cap explosion thing.
Try it ONCE. You'll see what I'm talking about.
#17
i know of 2 ways to properly bleed n fill a rad with or with out a bleeder screw. i prefur my air lift, some may know what that is , it only takes about 30 seconds to totaly fill and bleed a cooling system from bone dry or you can put a radiator funnel on the rad fill it and bleed off the air that way with the frount of the car in the air so the coolent can get to the heater core.
#19
[quote name='ColinRX7' date='Jun 23 2005, 07:49 AM']You could have an engine problem, I chased an overfill situation like that for days on end before I figured out the problem was actually the motor leaking compression into the cooling system
[/quote]
How did that happen? Was one of the cooling seals leaking just right so no fluid was being lost?
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How did that happen? Was one of the cooling seals leaking just right so no fluid was being lost?
#20
Guss that's just enough of a leak that air pressure's keeping any collant from seeping. As long as the air entering isn't diaplcing any fluid, there won't be any fluid seepage.
If you turn a coke bottle upside down, Coke comes out, and gets displaced by the air going in. If there's a top-side leak (or a place the air's bleeding out) then the air is just passing through, not causing any fluid to pack up and catch a vacation.
If you turn a coke bottle upside down, Coke comes out, and gets displaced by the air going in. If there's a top-side leak (or a place the air's bleeding out) then the air is just passing through, not causing any fluid to pack up and catch a vacation.