Yes, reset the TPS. As for polishing the inside, use what you want. Use a dremel if you are going to take off a lot of material.

I started mine out with first having a welder fill in the holes, then used a rotary tool (dremel) to remove the large chunks of material, and after that was finshed... I spent a long time hand sanding with some high grit wet/dry paper, it's a similar appraoch to polishing the external surface, this just has more purpose. I don't recommend stopping after the rotary tool because that will leave small grooves in teh surface perpendicular to the flow of air, finish with the sandpaper in a reciprocating motion moving along the direction of airflow. Even though the surface will look and feel smooth, it will still have small grooves scratched into it... it's better to have them going with the flow.

I simplified the TB Mod by simply just removing the Secondary Plates. I kept everything else Intact. Doing It this way, allows me to still keep everything Intact and not have to hold the gas down for fear of bogging out. Fini!

For those asking about the bac here is the low down.



the BACV deals with more than just idle when AC is on, the BACV tries to maintain the idle in general, it's not directly associated to AC.



If you turn on a blower motor, or headlights, or defroster, or roll up / down a window (power windows) the idle will fluxuate due to the varying load applied via the alternator.



The BACV is the ECU's way of counteracting the varying load by fine tuning the amount of air getting to the engine. Without the BACV your

idle will dip when the load varies at idle, and possibly even die.



You can easily keep your BACV, even with an aftermarket ECU like the haltech E6K. It has a target RPM, and uses the BACV to keep it at that target.



The coolant hoses can be eliminated, and plugs can be used on the water pump housing and rear engine housing. Then just remove the part of the BACV that has the coolant passage on the BACV, it's screwed on with two phillips screws if I remember correctly.

any proven downsides to using jb weld? I'm gonna do it this weekend, if not today

i've read about people using JB weld on the holes in the throttle body, I personally don't like it because if part of it comes loose and is sucked into the motor... you could damage things. It's not that much trouble to bring the throttle body to a local welding place that does TIG and have them fill the holes for $20.

i used large pipe plugs (7/16)..the brass insert on the radiator side (front of car) of the TB spun on me, even with boelube on it...welding it will be the best and most complete solution

Apex, I had a problem similar... after tapping it exactly per the instructions on fc3s pro, I put in brass plugs and on the one TB, they went in too far so I had to grind down the extra on the inside. I may remove them and weld it.



I just finished the mods on two TB's and now I'm polishing the bores with my rotary tool and polishing compound. It smooths everything out good for even better air flow.

on my n/a, I didn't have to remove the tps...do I still need to reset it or adjust it? It was less complicate to get the shaft out than described.

ok, I got a welder to fill the holes. on the inside, there is still a hole about 1/8" deep, but it's plugged to the outside. Should I bother with this, or just go with it since it's less restrictive than the butterflies that were there?