Na To Turbo Writeup..
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,705
From: Pimp'n ain't E-Z! But driving ur FD makes it easier!
Hey..there has been a lot of talk lately about converting an NA to a T2...well a while back I started making a writeup for this and though it is incomplete at this time, it's a good starting point for newbies looking into it...I have been redoing the 1320engineering site all together, and I'll make it a point to redo this writeup and complete it...hope it helps.
Click Here
BillRx7@1320Engineering.com if you have any questions concerning this.
Click Here
BillRx7@1320Engineering.com if you have any questions concerning this.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,705
From: Pimp'n ain't E-Z! But driving ur FD makes it easier!
Unfortunately, due to server space needed for the new online store and the rest of our site, I had to ditch this writeup...but the link revvin put up is good too. Sorry guys...I'll write another writeup when we get more server space...
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
If you are converting an n/a to a T2, not to be confused with turboing an n/a motor.
You will need:
1. T2 longblock; any year will work in any year chassis, as long as you have the motor mounts/brackets for the mounts; suggest getting new mounts/competition mounts
2. T2 wiring harness of the same series motor(s4:86-88)(s5:89-91); The wiring harness can me mismatched if you change the injectors or just their connectors on the wiring harness, and change all the sensors.
3. T2 computer of the same series, or a standalone engine management system, In most cases come with their own wiring harness, except AEM, if so skip step #2
4. Oil metering pump; S5(s) have an electronic unit that needs to be plugged into the computer or else it will make the car run in "limp" mode. If you have an s5 motor and want to run an s4 ecu you have to either swap an s4 front cover/omp on the s5 motor or run premix. If you have an s5 ecu you must keep the electronic omp plugged in, but you still could run strictly premix or a the s4 mechanical omp, or both in conjuction.
5. You will need all the sensors, pressure sensor, afm, tps etc of the same series harness/ecu.
6. You will want, but don't have to have a t2 drivetrain, if driven on lightly and not raced an N/A drivetrain can handle it. But do things right if you can afford it. You wil need the whole drivetrain; Tranny(and same series/t2 tranny mount), driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. You should also swap in new competition mounts. You need the same series clutch/pp of the engine also. You can keep the diff/halfshafts on an n/a and use a custom driveshaft in conjuction with a t2 tranny if you want, but the t2 rearend can handle more power. N/a shifter will work on a T2 tranny. You also need t2 slave cylinder.
7. T2 hood/stock intercooler, or front mount intercooler, stock blow off valve or aftermarket unit
8. Im not too sure on this, cuz I skipped this step. You need the t2 dash and dash harness from the same series ecu.
9. T2 throttle cable
Everything else is the same. Make sure you have a garage, and lots of tools, and a space heater if you live in the colder climates, expect to spend a decent amount of time, especially if its your first swap. I doubt you will ever look back though.
You will need:
1. T2 longblock; any year will work in any year chassis, as long as you have the motor mounts/brackets for the mounts; suggest getting new mounts/competition mounts
2. T2 wiring harness of the same series motor(s4:86-88)(s5:89-91); The wiring harness can me mismatched if you change the injectors or just their connectors on the wiring harness, and change all the sensors.
3. T2 computer of the same series, or a standalone engine management system, In most cases come with their own wiring harness, except AEM, if so skip step #2
4. Oil metering pump; S5(s) have an electronic unit that needs to be plugged into the computer or else it will make the car run in "limp" mode. If you have an s5 motor and want to run an s4 ecu you have to either swap an s4 front cover/omp on the s5 motor or run premix. If you have an s5 ecu you must keep the electronic omp plugged in, but you still could run strictly premix or a the s4 mechanical omp, or both in conjuction.
5. You will need all the sensors, pressure sensor, afm, tps etc of the same series harness/ecu.
6. You will want, but don't have to have a t2 drivetrain, if driven on lightly and not raced an N/A drivetrain can handle it. But do things right if you can afford it. You wil need the whole drivetrain; Tranny(and same series/t2 tranny mount), driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. You should also swap in new competition mounts. You need the same series clutch/pp of the engine also. You can keep the diff/halfshafts on an n/a and use a custom driveshaft in conjuction with a t2 tranny if you want, but the t2 rearend can handle more power. N/a shifter will work on a T2 tranny. You also need t2 slave cylinder.
7. T2 hood/stock intercooler, or front mount intercooler, stock blow off valve or aftermarket unit
8. Im not too sure on this, cuz I skipped this step. You need the t2 dash and dash harness from the same series ecu.
9. T2 throttle cable
Everything else is the same. Make sure you have a garage, and lots of tools, and a space heater if you live in the colder climates, expect to spend a decent amount of time, especially if its your first swap. I doubt you will ever look back though.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 83
From: Charlotte Area, NC
if you turbo charge an N/A engine and you run less boost (5 or so psi) its really counterproductive to import modification. i mean once u run at 5 then u add all your other mods your stuck, cant buy diff. turbos, cant turn up the boost, ur HP is static. i think its counterproductive, therefore i wouldnt want to do that, i'd rather save up the few more hundred dollars and just do a turboII swap instead of turboing an N/A
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,705
From: Pimp'n ain't E-Z! But driving ur FD makes it easier!
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Mar 27 2003, 12:00 AM
If you are converting an n/a to a T2, not to be confused with turboing an n/a motor.
You will need:
1. T2 longblock; any year will work in any year chassis, as long as you have the motor mounts/brackets for the mounts; suggest getting new mounts/competition mounts
2. T2 wiring harness of the same series motor(s4:86-88)(s5:89-91); The wiring harness can me mismatched if you change the injectors or just their connectors on the wiring harness, and change all the sensors.
3. T2 computer of the same series, or a standalone engine management system, In most cases come with their own wiring harness, except AEM, if so skip step #2
4. Oil metering pump; S5(s) have an electronic unit that needs to be plugged into the computer or else it will make the car run in "limp" mode. If you have an s5 motor and want to run an s4 ecu you have to either swap an s4 front cover/omp on the s5 motor or run premix. If you have an s5 ecu you must keep the electronic omp plugged in, but you still could run strictly premix or a the s4 mechanical omp, or both in conjuction.
5. You will need all the sensors, pressure sensor, afm, tps etc of the same series harness/ecu.
6. You will want, but don't have to have a t2 drivetrain, if driven on lightly and not raced an N/A drivetrain can handle it. But do things right if you can afford it. You wil need the whole drivetrain; Tranny(and same series/t2 tranny mount), driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. You should also swap in new competition mounts. You need the same series clutch/pp of the engine also. You can keep the diff/halfshafts on an n/a and use a custom driveshaft in conjuction with a t2 tranny if you want, but the t2 rearend can handle more power. N/a shifter will work on a T2 tranny. You also need t2 slave cylinder.
7. T2 hood/stock intercooler, or front mount intercooler, stock blow off valve or aftermarket unit
8. Im not too sure on this, cuz I skipped this step. You need the t2 dash and dash harness from the same series ecu.
9. T2 throttle cable
Everything else is the same. Make sure you have a garage, and lots of tools, and a space heater if you live in the colder climates, expect to spend a decent amount of time, especially if its your first swap. I doubt you will ever look back though.
You will need:
1. T2 longblock; any year will work in any year chassis, as long as you have the motor mounts/brackets for the mounts; suggest getting new mounts/competition mounts
2. T2 wiring harness of the same series motor(s4:86-88)(s5:89-91); The wiring harness can me mismatched if you change the injectors or just their connectors on the wiring harness, and change all the sensors.
3. T2 computer of the same series, or a standalone engine management system, In most cases come with their own wiring harness, except AEM, if so skip step #2
4. Oil metering pump; S5(s) have an electronic unit that needs to be plugged into the computer or else it will make the car run in "limp" mode. If you have an s5 motor and want to run an s4 ecu you have to either swap an s4 front cover/omp on the s5 motor or run premix. If you have an s5 ecu you must keep the electronic omp plugged in, but you still could run strictly premix or a the s4 mechanical omp, or both in conjuction.
5. You will need all the sensors, pressure sensor, afm, tps etc of the same series harness/ecu.
6. You will want, but don't have to have a t2 drivetrain, if driven on lightly and not raced an N/A drivetrain can handle it. But do things right if you can afford it. You wil need the whole drivetrain; Tranny(and same series/t2 tranny mount), driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. You should also swap in new competition mounts. You need the same series clutch/pp of the engine also. You can keep the diff/halfshafts on an n/a and use a custom driveshaft in conjuction with a t2 tranny if you want, but the t2 rearend can handle more power. N/a shifter will work on a T2 tranny. You also need t2 slave cylinder.
7. T2 hood/stock intercooler, or front mount intercooler, stock blow off valve or aftermarket unit
8. Im not too sure on this, cuz I skipped this step. You need the t2 dash and dash harness from the same series ecu.
9. T2 throttle cable
Everything else is the same. Make sure you have a garage, and lots of tools, and a space heater if you live in the colder climates, expect to spend a decent amount of time, especially if its your first swap. I doubt you will ever look back though.
If you have a series 4 NA('86 to '88) and you swap in a series 4 motor and ecu, you will not need to convert your dash harness.
However, if you have a series 4NA and are going to the series5 T2 motor and ecu, you will need to swap the dash harness.
This is what I did, and you can add about $200 to $250 more to your total if you go this route.
The best bet if you can afford it, go standalone, it'll save a lot of work!
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4
I Didn't see this in anyone's response but if you have a s4 86-88 rx-7 and you are coverting to TII you will need the knock sensor box and the baro sensor from the passenger side kick panel or it won't run right and will have preignition and the engine will kill itself shortly. we have seen this alot the puerto rican guy named issac here in jax does the swaps alot and so far we have fixed two of them behind him he likes using s4 engines with s5 rotors and porting them to big so they smoke and he also likes to use n/a harness and ecu and modify the air flow meter to work they run but no where near the way they should You can't replace the knowledge of a good RX-7 mechanic and the right parts we have a stock TII conv. that ran a 13.9 @ gainesville on stack boost and no porting on the 87-88 turbo thats junk if done properly the swap will make good power and be very durable just stay away from the I got A cheap TII motor for you they generally don't have the right parts in them and run like crap..
