Hey..there has been a lot of talk lately about converting an NA to a T2...well a while back I started making a writeup for this and though it is incomplete at this time, it's a good starting point for newbies looking into it...I have been redoing the 1320engineering site all together, and I'll make it a point to redo this writeup and complete it...hope it helps.



Click Here





BillRx7@1320Engineering.com if you have any questions concerning this.

Pinned.



Everyone should address their questions aloud here, so everyone can learn.



Link about Turboing an N/A motor:

Np



A thread about Converting an n/a to t2

NP

Unfortunately, due to server space needed for the new online store and the rest of our site, I had to ditch this writeup...but the link revvin put up is good too. Sorry guys...I'll write another writeup when we get more server space...

If you are converting an n/a to a T2, not to be confused with turboing an n/a motor.

You will need:

1. T2 longblock; any year will work in any year chassis, as long as you have the motor mounts/brackets for the mounts; suggest getting new mounts/competition mounts

2. T2 wiring harness of the same series motor(s4:86-88)(s5:89-91); The wiring harness can me mismatched if you change the injectors or just their connectors on the wiring harness, and change all the sensors.

3. T2 computer of the same series, or a standalone engine management system, In most cases come with their own wiring harness, except AEM, if so skip step #2

4. Oil metering pump; S5(s) have an electronic unit that needs to be plugged into the computer or else it will make the car run in "limp" mode. If you have an s5 motor and want to run an s4 ecu you have to either swap an s4 front cover/omp on the s5 motor or run premix. If you have an s5 ecu you must keep the electronic omp plugged in, but you still could run strictly premix or a the s4 mechanical omp, or both in conjuction.

5. You will need all the sensors, pressure sensor, afm, tps etc of the same series harness/ecu.

6. You will want, but don't have to have a t2 drivetrain, if driven on lightly and not raced an N/A drivetrain can handle it. But do things right if you can afford it. You wil need the whole drivetrain; Tranny(and same series/t2 tranny mount), driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. You should also swap in new competition mounts. You need the same series clutch/pp of the engine also. You can keep the diff/halfshafts on an n/a and use a custom driveshaft in conjuction with a t2 tranny if you want, but the t2 rearend can handle more power. N/a shifter will work on a T2 tranny. You also need t2 slave cylinder.

7. T2 hood/stock intercooler, or front mount intercooler, stock blow off valve or aftermarket unit

8. Im not too sure on this, cuz I skipped this step. You need the t2 dash and dash harness from the same series ecu.

9. T2 throttle cable

Everything else is the same. Make sure you have a garage, and lots of tools, and a space heater if you live in the colder climates, expect to spend a decent amount of time, especially if its your first swap. I doubt you will ever look back though.

Can you turbo an N/A Motor.. and run low boost (under 5) and still have a reliable daily driven car?





Just to have that little edge over others... not completely converting it. Is it possible?

T2 conversion writeup



N/a to t2 conversion writeup - Very NICE

if you turbo charge an N/A engine and you run less boost (5 or so psi) its really counterproductive to import modification. i mean once u run at 5 then u add all your other mods your stuck, cant buy diff. turbos, cant turn up the boost, ur HP is static. i think its counterproductive, therefore i wouldnt want to do that, i'd rather save up the few more hundred dollars and just do a turboII swap instead of turboing an N/A

To help aid those looking at this, I'm gonna make a note to Revvin's #8..



If you have a series 4 NA('86 to '88) and you swap in a series 4 motor and ecu, you will not need to convert your dash harness.



However, if you have a series 4NA and are going to the series5 T2 motor and ecu, you will need to swap the dash harness.



This is what I did, and you can add about $200 to $250 more to your total if you go this route.



The best bet if you can afford it, go standalone, it'll save a lot of work!

I Didn't see this in anyone's response but if you have a s4 86-88 rx-7 and you are coverting to TII you will need the knock sensor box and the baro sensor from the passenger side kick panel or it won't run right and will have preignition and the engine will kill itself shortly. we have seen this alot the puerto rican guy named issac here in jax does the swaps alot and so far we have fixed two of them behind him he likes using s4 engines with s5 rotors and porting them to big so they smoke and he also likes to use n/a harness and ecu and modify the air flow meter to work they run but no where near the way they should You can't replace the knowledge of a good RX-7 mechanic and the right parts we have a stock TII conv. that ran a 13.9 @ gainesville on stack boost and no porting on the 87-88 turbo thats junk if done properly the swap will make good power and be very durable just stay away from the I got A cheap TII motor for you they generally don't have the right parts in them and run like crap..



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

anyone got the link to the site with the write up on supercharging using the S/C from a ford T-bird?

So much misinformation. Will get back after shower.

ECU Part Numbers (this is the version # that's on the ECU itself)

84-85 GSL-SE N304 18 880A

86-87 NA N326 18 880, N3Y6 18 880

87 Turbo N332 18 880

88 NA N327 18 880

88 Turbo N333 18 880

88 Convertible N338 18 880

89 NA California N350 18 880

89 NA Fed. N351 18 880

89 Conv. CA N352 18 880

89 Conv. Fed. N353 18 880

89 Turbo N370 18 880

Injector Information

Mazda RX-7(Gen 1 and 2) Fuel injector identification guide

(Note that some injectors carry the same part number as others but plug styles and resistances can vary. Low impedance refers to 2-3 ohms, high impedance refers to 12-13 ohms.)



Year type impedance plug style plug notch position flow rating color part number

84-85 13B NT low square center 680cc orange 195500-0900

86-87 13B NT low square center 460cc red 195500-1350

86-87 13B T low square center 550cc tan 195500-1370

88 13B NT high square offset 460cc purple 195500-1350

88 13b T high square offset 550cc purple 195500-1370

89-91 13B NT high oval center 460cc red 195500-2010

89-91 13B T high oval center 550cc purple 195500-2020



As a side note, replacement fuel injector clips(for wiring harness) can be obtained from auto parts stores to replace broken stock clips. I got the parts from autozone:

GP Sorenson part 800-9416 Fuel Injector Connector



More about injector impedances on 2nd generations:

1986 and 1987 model cars used low impedance(2-3 ohm) injectors. Low impedance injectors have a center notch on the plug. The wiring harness used with LI injectors integrates an injector resistor pack, wired inline between the ECU and injectors(under stock air box) to bump overall load seen at the ECU to 12-13 ohms.

1988 and later models used high impedance injectors. 1988 HI injectors have an offset notch on the plug, and all post 1988 injectors are HI with an oval plug(until 3rd generation side feed injectors which are totally different). The wiring harness on these models deleted the injector resistor pacl, carrying the 12-13 ohm load from the injectors directly to the computer.



When performing engine/wiring/injector swaps, the type of setup must be noted and kept together. This is easy as LI injectors will only plug into a harness meant for them(due to the position of the plug notch) and vice versa for HI injectors and harnesses. 88 and post 89 HI injectors and harnesses are not interchangeable.

A car that previously ran one type of setup can be changed to the other…keep the injectors and wiring harness together. The ECU will not know the difference.

It is also possible, but not necessarily recommended, to use HI injectors on a LI harness and vice versa:



***TO do so you must modify the injectors to fit the opposing wiring harness by taking off the notch on the plug.



***IF using LI injectors on a HI harness, you must splice into the harness, at each injector lead (for a total of 4) 10 ohm/10watt resistors available at radio shack for a couple of bucks. Doesn't matter which wire of the 2 per injector you splice to, polarity isn't an issue here. This bumps the LI resistance up to acceptable load for the ECU to see.



***IF using HI injectors on a LI harness, you must unplug the resistor pack. Next, locate the supply wire in the center of 5 terminals. Bridge jumper wires from this terminal to each of the 4 outlying terminals, which basically completes the circuit without resistors, carrying the HI injectors' 12-13 ohm load directly to the ECU just as a HI harness would.

Swapping motors



There are 2 methods of swapping a 13bT into your N/A FC3S. I call 1. the right way and 2. the gets by way. This really depends on your goals of the car! If all you want is a stock 13bt to get you around town and cruise with a bit more HP then 1 is for you. If you have goals of pushing 300+ numbers then 2. is the right way for you. IMO every turbo charged performance car should run on a stand-alone EMS no exceptions.



We will be covering swapping in series in this article only.



S4 & S5

1.

You will need to obtain a LHD TII wire harness to match the year or injector impedance of your S4 motor. Cars manufactured <Jan 1987 use low impedance injectors.

You will need a S4 ECU from a 87 or 88 TII, there is one exception on this swap only you can use a N338 ECU out of a 1988 vert.

TII pressure sensor

TII AFM

TII long block

TII hood or go FMIC

TID if was not supplied.

Down pipe of your choice fitment can very

Boost gauge

TII throttle cable

TII fuel pump or bettor

You will need to wire in the alternator

Temp wire needs to be cut and spliced over to proper pin location



2.

You will need a TII long block.

TII hood or go FMIC

TII fuel pump or bettor

Custom TID

TII Throttle cable

Down pipe of your choice fitment can very

Boost gauge

Stand alone EMS of your choice with a flying lead harness

Some dyno time and a tuner.

Drive train upgrades



The N/A drive train can be used! It is said that the N/A tranny does not like above 250hp. The N/A rear end is said to be weak as well, I know someone pushing 400hp on a T78 still on the N/A rear end.



You can swap S5 or S4 trannys but the flywheel must match the series block and the starter must match the tranny. If you chose to swap a TII rear end you will need the Rear end and the half shafts. If you bolt the TII rear end assembly up to a TII tranny then you need a TII drive shaft. If you opt out of this and chose to swap a TII tranny and keep your N/A rear end you have 3 choices.



1. Buy a custom drive shaft from mazdatrix.com that adapts the yokes for $300

2. Have a driveline shop build you a custom one roughly $300.00 but potentially stronger.

3. Buy an AT shaft and remove the stacked U-Joint in the front yoke removing the front yoke. You can buy a replacement U-joint from http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/ you now must press the front yoke off of your N/A shaft. Use the AT front yoke on your N/A shaft using the U-Joint you just purchased.



I did the 3 method and I will never do it again I will just buy a made shaft way to much effort to save $150

Turbo N/A



First off this notion that you cannot run boost over 5 or 6 or 8 psi and that you cant put bigger turbos on and other upgrades is totally BS and inaccurate! People need to quit posting this crap.



The gains of this swap are higher compression this means more TQ quicker spool and more HP per PSI compared to a lower compression setup. I don’t care if you run a T88 P trim if the system is tuned properly it will run just fine. The thresh hold of the setup is a lot lower and is more easily blown; this is why you must tune it properly. The fact of the motor being previously N/A or Turbo is irrelevant.



There is 5 ways to do this conversion.

You can build a custom manifold to space the turbo past the LIM and clear the frame.

You can use a 2.5” spacer on the manifold to clear the LIM but possible to hit the frame.

You can port match a TII manifold to fit the N/A

You can space the N/A LIM to clear the turbo

You can buy a custom manifold from www.1600cc.com



The next issue in the setup of clearance for the turbo is the 6pt actuators they wont allow room for the turbo. So you will have to ditch these.



The ACV has to be blocked off with a 3mm plate for turbo clearance with custom mounting screw made to seal it.



After you figure out how to get the turbo mounted you can address the rest. The easiest thing here is to run a FMIC for your intercooler. Now you have coolant issues to obtain to. You can tap the pump housing for a coolant line to the turbo. You then need to tap the oil pan for the oil coolant line to the turbo. You now need to attend to the exhaust ether order an aftermarket TII exhaust or use a DP that matches up to your exhaust.



If you are serious there are many detailed write-ups on the Internet to do this I will not get into it here.

JDM issues :-/



Fuel lines are reversed on JDM motors the FPR is on the P rail.

S4 has no EGR valve

This is where it gets tricky on Kouki cars the CAS plug is part of the motor harness and on Zenki cars it is part of the body harness but this is not always true on JDM harnesses. I have not figured out the pattern yet but it does not follow suit as USDM FC3’s do. If this is the case your ECU needs to match where your CAS plug is. If the CAS is on the motor harness and you wish to use this then you will need the JDM ECU that it came with. Note the ECU is prone to be bad on delivery I went through 4 ECU’s. If you use the body harness clip on the S4 then you will need a USDM computer unless your JDM harness was not equipped this way. Another issue that is non suit is the wind shield wiper harness. The USDM Zenkis use the motor harness for the wipers were not all JDM’s did this. If this is your case you will have to wire your wiper motor into the emissions clip on the motor harness.



The JDM downpipe is 2.5in and has no cats :-D

Little addition to turbo N/A



The most important thing here is the EMS the stock ECU does not pull timing back for boost. The stock EMS TII just fire hoses fuel in there under boost.

In this condition you really need to use a TII ECU with a TII pressure sensor with something like a Rtek chip or a stand alone EMS and proper injectors.

iceblue,

I’m glad to hear some positive feedback on the N/A to turbo conversion subject. one quick question regarding the headers/uppipe setup. has anyone attempted to make a custom header that points toward the front of the car and mount the turbo in front of the 13b? i don't know if there are big clearance issues with an RX-7...i am putting my N/A to turbo setup in a Nissan 240sx, and there should be plenty of space for this.



i know the general rule of thumb is to get your turbine inlet as close as possible to your engine exhaust outlet to avoid temperature drop through conduction, which leads to pressure drop, which leads to decreased turbo spooling potential, but an extra foot or two of plumbing shouldn't screw the pooch right?



does this sound logical?



also, i am running an anti-lag system, so i am especially not concerned with temperature/pressure drop in the header/uppipe.

hey i got a question i did a swap i put a 91 t2 engine in my 86 and all i need is the piece of the wiring harness that plugs into the ecu. its the harness that runs behind the dash and into the ecu i need the clip that plugs into the ecu and about a foot of the wiring can anyone help me please

thanks for the info very informative

Re: Na To Turbo Writeup..
 

I'm very interested in some detailed info on this subject, id like to pm you