the high amp is only at start up. The muscle mustang guys say it's about that but just for a milisecond. then it runs at a constant 70amp. So, yes the crappy stock alt will need replacing, I am intrigued about this GM alt on the main body.

Uh, i have a 1200watt rms system, this e-fan, and normal other electrical thigns.



The only problems i had were blowing 25amp fuses upon startup on the fan, so i jumped to 30 amp and havent had any problems since. Well, the engine blew, but thats getting fixed soon.

Still No responce from the place I contacted about the alternators. Would be nice to have a 160 amp Iceberg alternator in there huh?



BTW The Iceberg Technology(so to speak) in certain gm alternators positions the fan blades at a greater angle to keep the alternator cooler and increase reliability and longevity.



I WANT ONE BADLY ! ! ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

This is the Email I sent to the alternator guys over at alternatorparts.com

still wating for a responce.



To: nqs12@aol.com

Me and a group of people over at Nopistons.com a RX-7 forum are trying to find out if there is any way to use A GM type alternator 140+amp in our cars. Specifically the 2nd Gen. RX-7 that have an alternator rated only at 70 amps. Which A car with a 700 Watt sound system, an Electric fan pulling a constant 70 amp's, and a set of fog lights would be already way overloading the cars electrical system. In our case using all of the above over an extended period of time would leave us having to push start, or get a jump start. We have discussed already things that would hinder the use of A GM type alternator like in our case our cars have a 3 wire alternator plug, and the one to the battery. If there is any information you could give us that would be greatly appreciated. If we can accomplish this it might bring you a whole new source of revenue from us weak alternated import owners. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Thank you for your time and your knowledge.

George C. Viera

Dvirus Repair

433 South Royal Poinciana Blvd. #415

Miami Springs, FL 33166

The fans only pull 30-33 amps at speed, not 70. ALL electric motors pull massive amperage upon startup, it's the nature of the beast. You're starter pulls LOTS more for that 1/10 of a second than the e-fan does.





Also, if you're trying to get info from a company, you might consider proofreading your e-mails first.

"Several memebers of the forum at www.nopistons.com and I..."

dude I know it pulls only at start up the 70 amp But it it is at a constant 30 amp plus ac, system 3 amps , headlights, wipers, fog lights, the car with out the Efan with all that turned on it only puts out like 11.3 volts. Then add the efan. It will be slowly draining the battery. so if I got a good 160 amp alternator it would put me under budget. LOL https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif



Plus with 160 amp you know how hard my 2 12's with 2 rockford 500's will hit https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif AMPS=MORE BASS

I am watching 2 FC's having similar problems. They have done a lot of work on these cars and just can't seem to get the charging system to keep up with the load.



FC #1 Electrical load

Elecromotive TEC II engine management system

Twin 12" Flex-o-lite fans (radiator)

2 8" electric fans (oil coolers)

Electric water pump

2 A1000 Aeromotive fuel pumps

AVC-R

Full DEFI-Link gauge system

East bear headlight kit

400w power invertor (for laptop)

Jacobs Accu-Volt 1500w step-up transformer (fuel pumps and fans)

about 20 bosch relays

plus the standard electricals in a FC



with ignition on, and engine running @ idle 11.2 vdc

with ignition on, and engine running @ 2000 rpm 12.7 vdc



All with a Cosmo 20b alternator and a Optima Yellow top 1050 cca battery



FC # 2 has basically the same load with the difference in twin Walbro fuel pumps, and no electrical water pump



I don't have the specs on the readings for FC#2



The Accu Volt was put into the systems to help keep up with the loads but with all the other electronics just cannot seem to keep the rest of the charging system going, it litterally wears the batteries out in these cars in 6-8 months of use. They are primarily used @ night with all loads constant (fans, pumps. computers, and gauges)



one idea was a dual battery system with a battery isolator (more weight from 2nd battery)



The other was to find an alternator that could handle the load, but most alternators do not reach max output until above the 1500 RPM mark, making it hard to find anything that will keep the battery from discharging. One option is a GM single wire alternator for the cars, but depending on the use for your cars it may not be feasable to make a new bracket for the alternator to be side mounted (air pump and steering pump removal)



If I find out more I will post it. Still working on a solution

It is a problem that needs to be addressed. Most GM alternators including the 160 amp iceberg alternator makes full charging at like 800 RPM. and a 160 amp going thourgh the system would make everything happier. Not only if you have all the upgrades mentioned up top but if you are like me that is a bass fanatic you need the amps to get your system to perform at its best.

ive been reading on this mod on a few threads here on this site and im a little confused on something. from what some are saying you eliminate the radiator completley, then some dont really mention it. what do i do when i get my fan?