my fiero fan wasnt cutting it anymore, plus i needed a shroud for it. went to the junk yard, the guy opened me the door to the fans and told me taurus fans were great for 5.0L mustangs. I took one, checked to see if it fits and the 2 driver side hole on the shroud matched the radiators side holes. 2 wires, same as the fiero but bigger gauge, and voila. no more over heating during traffic.!

A Taurus huh. Sounds interesting. Nice find! Pics???

If you can find the 3 wire, 2-speed fan from a Taurus 3.8L it's considered the highest CFM fan in a factory vehicle (hotrodders use them to cool 454s). Same was used in some 3.0L Tempos, 3.8L Sables, and Lincoln Mark VIIIs. The 2 wire, single speed Taurus fans are the same with no high-speed level, probably just fine for the sevens.

Keep in mind! These Ford fans are MASSIVE power hogs, and the wiring and relays must be big. Usually people are running 40 amp Bosch relays (the fans draw about 33amps at speed, 75+ amps at startup). Use good 10 gauge wire, and make the runs as short as possible, with good quality connectors.

I should try and find one of them...maybe it'll make my car run a little cooler.

you serious? i think im using an el cheapo 30amp relay and 12-14 gauge wires.....time to go to the back store and get some 8 guage wires

here are two links for info from the off-road community:

tech #1

Tech #2

nice info

Nice info Pazuzu!!!!!



So how do you use the 2 speed option? Also, what's the best way to trigger them? Should I just get a temp switch from Summit or something?

I wouldn't bother with the dual speed. Try the low speed, if the engine gets to hot, switch the whole thing to high speed.



Autozone has temp switches, Flex-A-Lite sells temp switches all over, or find one in a boneyard vehicle. Use the switch to run "ignition" power to the low side of a big old relay, run battery through the high side of the relay, done. The temp sensors come in two flavors. Either a threaded plunge sensor that you use inserted into the water flow itself (either drill and tap a hole somewhere in the metal water line, or cut the rad hose, and put a bunged insert in there), or a probe that gets shoved between a couple if fins in the radiator, or taped to the hot inlet side of the radiator. The 4wheelers also often put a kill switch and indicator light on the system, because when you make a deep water crossing (crossing a river) the pressure of the fan blades hitting the water will shatter it, so you kill the fan before you go in the drink. Simply a kill switch between the ignition power and the low side of the relay. Dunno if a Seven would need anything like that, but ya never know. At least a 12V LED indicator might be nice, so you know that the fan is actually spinning while you have the tunes cranked (wouldn't want the fan to die while your racing and you don't know it!!!!!)

How loud is the Taurus fan? Also, if I unplug my stock E-fan, the "cooling fan" light comes on. How do I avoid that?

This installation kit seems cool, although pricey:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...art=PRM%2D18905



That way you can adjust the temp where it comes on.

Leave it plugged in? Or probably jumper the connector with a short jumper wire. But if you have the cooling fan, I would leave it as a secondary fan (assuming the alternator can handle the load, you can never have too many fans...)



As for how loud, dunno. Our trucks are pretty freaking loud to begin with (much louder than the Sevens), but any FWD Jap car with an e-fan is loud (go sit outside the local Gas 'N' Gulp at the Camry's parked with the engine idling and the AC on, when that fan kicks on, it sounds like a dead cat was caught in there!)

The Mazda e-fan is a little piece of crap, so I probably wouldn't be keeping it. I doubt it does anything at all, since it's not shrouded.

My becool 16" keeps things so cool......

I've never even thought about rigging my car up with a non-rx-7 radiator..

Uhh... you mean radiator fan?

its not that loud but its hearable from 10-20ft....

Yeah, there are lots of options (BeCool, FlexALite, Black Magic) but the Taurus fan is $35 with wiring and maybe even the connector harness. Less money in the fan means more money in the pocket (or intake, or exhaust, or computer, or alimony https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR )





Assuming you can find one https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png but I bet the 2 wire, single speed fan is good enough, and there are dozens of those in any boneyard.

i just did some fan testing (traffic for 25 mins) and the temp didnt go over the half way mark.......it used to be around 2/3 with the fiero fan.......HUGE IMPROVMENT

I have the two speed taurus fan. Here are some pics:



My un-washed engine bay:

http://users.pullman.com/jsjensen/iotus/rx7/e-fan03.jpg



http://users.pullman.com/jsjensen/iotus/rx7/e-fan01.jpg

that shroud looks like a good match to your radiator iotus, good stuff... except the zip-ties https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Peng hurry up with your fiberglass shroud, I want pixs!

soon, i'm in the middle of moving to the new place though, probably no time to play with the car in the near future. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

When its clean you cant even notice the zip ties.



And hey, they work!!!

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif So far, in my garage it keeps temps way down! I never see more than 190degrees..

After reading the information posted abou the 2-speed fan I did a bit of homework. The 3.8L taurus and Sables in the bay area pick-n-pulls are COMMON as dirt, but finding one with a fan intact is the hard part. My friend and I ventured to Mosslanding with our $2 entrance fee to all 7 of the bay area yards. We found 2 down there, purchased one and took it to the parking lot for testing. touched the ground wire to the neg battery pole, and first touched the low speed wire. Fan started right up, and pushed about as much air as my old Spal e-fan on the Datsun. Which was rated at 650cfm. I then pulled off the low speed and touched the high speed. Fan sitting 3' from my head, the fan wound up, and blew my hat off my head. After giggleing, we took the fan home. For install instructions check out http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02...fan/index.shtml they also have a good wiring diagram, but I am going to mod it past this. I am going to set low speed for 180* on, high speed at 220* on, with a manual switch to kick on high speed between runs, and after a "spirited drive" in the hills. The AE86 is getting one too.



The stock shroud is an almost PERFECT fit for the FC radiator, and the slim motor makes for a rather nice install. Much like the one found on the FB pics above. The fan and shround clears all stock lines, wires, and brackets if you remove the stock fan and clutch.

Nice info people! This forum is getting some awesome how-to's and pictures! Keep it up!

By the way, on mine, I cut off the bit on the Taurus shroud that sits lower than the rest, making the shroud sit flat against the radiator. BUt be careful, there was a clip in the center of the fan that was rubbing, and poked a small hole in there!!



So i took it off and replaced it with a bit of small wire, and twisted the wire to hold the center bit in place. so, space the fan a bit off of the radiator, but you still want it pretty close.

ok im reading that the E-fan pulls about 130 amp on start up. if our car has 70 amp alternator and with it runnig it is 40 amp load HTF ! !! is it supposed to start it up. Plus if you have a moderate Audio system you are already way over your cars sustained amperage. what is an RX-7 driver to do with these peice of **** alternators.

?????

the high amp is only at start up. The muscle mustang guys say it's about that but just for a milisecond. then it runs at a constant 70amp. So, yes the crappy stock alt will need replacing, I am intrigued about this GM alt on the main body.

Uh, i have a 1200watt rms system, this e-fan, and normal other electrical thigns.



The only problems i had were blowing 25amp fuses upon startup on the fan, so i jumped to 30 amp and havent had any problems since. Well, the engine blew, but thats getting fixed soon.

Still No responce from the place I contacted about the alternators. Would be nice to have a 160 amp Iceberg alternator in there huh?



BTW The Iceberg Technology(so to speak) in certain gm alternators positions the fan blades at a greater angle to keep the alternator cooler and increase reliability and longevity.



I WANT ONE BADLY ! ! ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

This is the Email I sent to the alternator guys over at alternatorparts.com

still wating for a responce.



To: nqs12@aol.com

Me and a group of people over at Nopistons.com a RX-7 forum are trying to find out if there is any way to use A GM type alternator 140+amp in our cars. Specifically the 2nd Gen. RX-7 that have an alternator rated only at 70 amps. Which A car with a 700 Watt sound system, an Electric fan pulling a constant 70 amp's, and a set of fog lights would be already way overloading the cars electrical system. In our case using all of the above over an extended period of time would leave us having to push start, or get a jump start. We have discussed already things that would hinder the use of A GM type alternator like in our case our cars have a 3 wire alternator plug, and the one to the battery. If there is any information you could give us that would be greatly appreciated. If we can accomplish this it might bring you a whole new source of revenue from us weak alternated import owners. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Thank you for your time and your knowledge.

George C. Viera

Dvirus Repair

433 South Royal Poinciana Blvd. #415

Miami Springs, FL 33166

The fans only pull 30-33 amps at speed, not 70. ALL electric motors pull massive amperage upon startup, it's the nature of the beast. You're starter pulls LOTS more for that 1/10 of a second than the e-fan does.





Also, if you're trying to get info from a company, you might consider proofreading your e-mails first.

"Several memebers of the forum at www.nopistons.com and I..."

dude I know it pulls only at start up the 70 amp But it it is at a constant 30 amp plus ac, system 3 amps , headlights, wipers, fog lights, the car with out the Efan with all that turned on it only puts out like 11.3 volts. Then add the efan. It will be slowly draining the battery. so if I got a good 160 amp alternator it would put me under budget. LOL https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif



Plus with 160 amp you know how hard my 2 12's with 2 rockford 500's will hit https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif AMPS=MORE BASS

I am watching 2 FC's having similar problems. They have done a lot of work on these cars and just can't seem to get the charging system to keep up with the load.



FC #1 Electrical load

Elecromotive TEC II engine management system

Twin 12" Flex-o-lite fans (radiator)

2 8" electric fans (oil coolers)

Electric water pump

2 A1000 Aeromotive fuel pumps

AVC-R

Full DEFI-Link gauge system

East bear headlight kit

400w power invertor (for laptop)

Jacobs Accu-Volt 1500w step-up transformer (fuel pumps and fans)

about 20 bosch relays

plus the standard electricals in a FC



with ignition on, and engine running @ idle 11.2 vdc

with ignition on, and engine running @ 2000 rpm 12.7 vdc



All with a Cosmo 20b alternator and a Optima Yellow top 1050 cca battery



FC # 2 has basically the same load with the difference in twin Walbro fuel pumps, and no electrical water pump



I don't have the specs on the readings for FC#2



The Accu Volt was put into the systems to help keep up with the loads but with all the other electronics just cannot seem to keep the rest of the charging system going, it litterally wears the batteries out in these cars in 6-8 months of use. They are primarily used @ night with all loads constant (fans, pumps. computers, and gauges)



one idea was a dual battery system with a battery isolator (more weight from 2nd battery)



The other was to find an alternator that could handle the load, but most alternators do not reach max output until above the 1500 RPM mark, making it hard to find anything that will keep the battery from discharging. One option is a GM single wire alternator for the cars, but depending on the use for your cars it may not be feasable to make a new bracket for the alternator to be side mounted (air pump and steering pump removal)



If I find out more I will post it. Still working on a solution

It is a problem that needs to be addressed. Most GM alternators including the 160 amp iceberg alternator makes full charging at like 800 RPM. and a 160 amp going thourgh the system would make everything happier. Not only if you have all the upgrades mentioned up top but if you are like me that is a bass fanatic you need the amps to get your system to perform at its best.

ive been reading on this mod on a few threads here on this site and im a little confused on something. from what some are saying you eliminate the radiator completley, then some dont really mention it. what do i do when i get my fan?