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Atf teatment

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Old 02-27-2002, 10:15 PM
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I thought this would make a good FAQ.



I guess I can start it off by explaining that ATF stands for Automatic Transmission Fluid.



Supposedly, by pouring it in your crankcase(not too much) and letting it sit. The fluid can breakdown carbon deposits on your apex seals and springs, which helps increase compression. Just make sure you use old plugs or plan on getting new plugs afterwards, cause it will foul the plugs.



Now if someone who has done this will post here and give more detail this could actually help someone.



Mike :notify:
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Old 02-27-2002, 10:37 PM
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It's already up in the "Step By Step" section of the site, but you are right, will make a great FAQ and we should add it to this section until the two become one in the same.



For anybody with an Rx w/ over 100K regardless of year, you should...no no no..you NEED to do the ATF(auto. trans fluid) trick! I have yet to do this to my car, because I just bought new spark plugs and can't find my old ones(ATF fouls the plugs). But I did do it on both a '90 S10, and an '85 EFI Rx7. The gains are unbelievable considering you only spend like Û for the ATF! The S10 we did had a lot better response in the low end, and the RX litterally had to put out 10psi or so better compression! We are gonna test it hopefully tomorrow to verify this! For those of you who haven't heard about this trick, here's a short how-to on it:



1. Buy some ATF

2. Remove spark plugs and disconnect wires

3. On EFI cars, unplug the EFI fuse(the one you'd use if your seven is flooding)

4. Can't remember what do w/ a carb unit..both things we did were EFI.

5. Now, pour the ATF into the lower leading spark plug hole on your seven, you can use a hose or oil squirt can works too.

6. Bump start the motor, pour, bump, poor..I'm sure you get the idea. You just want to make sure you get ATF smoothly and evenly coated on the housings and APEX seals.

7. Now this is important...LET IT SIT FOR 24 HOURS! The longer it sits in the motor, the better!

8. Then, after 24 hours, push you car to a well ventilated area(you'll see why once tons & tons of smoke pour out of your exhaust, this is normal BTW)

9. Take the car out and do about 7 or 8 redline passes down the highway.(BTW, you should have put everything back in by now..spark plugs, wires, fuse, etc

10. After making the passes the ATF should be out of your system and you car should be running a lot smoother and should feel more powerful!



How it works: the ATF breaks down the carbon build up on your housings and seals, and restores lost compression...supposedly up to 20psi sometimes! It allows your APEX seals to operate better and smoother too! This should help regain lost HP!



Warnings: This does foul your spark plugs, so using an old set or doing this before putting in a new set is a good idea! Also, if you have cats, the ATF can sometimes get caught in them and lead to premature cat failure. I haven't installed my new exhaust yet so I'll do the ATF before the install. If you have any questions on this, then just let me know!



Happy ROTOR'N!!!



Step-by Step Provided by. Rotaryman88









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Old 06-20-2003, 01:01 AM
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The amount of ATF does not matter, use an ounce or capful. You can also use MMO aka Marvel Mystery Oil, some say its better some say otherwise, its up to you. Using either atf or mmo will clog your cats and harm your o2 sensor/spark plugs, no other damage is known. This is also an old piston trick, so its not something new.
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Old 06-20-2003, 02:04 AM
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and don't forget, though it is mentioned many times above.





it will foul your plugs
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Old 12-11-2003, 05:51 PM
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Aftering do some tests, someone found out that atf eats your o rings and side seals. MMO would be a better option. A lot of people argue that this "trick" doesn't work at all, and there is no need to do it in the 1st place...
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Old 12-12-2003, 04:32 PM
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Heh, I believe it. ATF is bad news. Doesn't it form solids when burned? If so, that's obviously one way that it can clog catalytic convertors. Also, the need to change spark plugs after a 'treatment' raised a few eyebrows around here.



This religious devotion to ATF that some people have is quite comical. Most people believe almost any darn thing they hear (or read); especially when it sounds like something they already believe.



I just tore down an engine yesterday. I now have some apex and other seals to dunk into ATF and MMO baths. Heating will not be necessary for this test. I may try heating the baths later, but I'm affraid the MMO could ignite.
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Old 01-07-2004, 04:55 PM
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So Jeff, what did your ATF and MMO baths turn up??
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Old 01-07-2004, 07:06 PM
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Here you go. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...opic=31125&st=0

Be sure to check out the whole thread and not just the first page. I did a little experiementation with a black and white CCD camera.
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Old 11-24-2006, 02:46 AM
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MMO ROCKS!! I drove modded 1st gens for 20 years and finally traded up to a cherry "87.It always seemed slow compared to my "80 and my "84.Both had exhaust, intake and light flywheels.I've done the exhaust and intake,plus an e-fan on the '87, but it never had the snap of the other two.Then I tried the MMO.UNFREAKING BELIEVABLE !!!!! It's like I added 30hp.Thanks boys.BT
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Old 11-24-2006, 08:30 PM
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What ratios of MMO to fuel/oil do you use? Do you premix the same as 2-cycle oil, 1oz oil per gallon fuel? How much in the oil pan?



Thanks

Andy
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