Baldy

sorry if the pics are too big, mods feel free to resize



Ok, you're going to start with 4 donor hubs, like this:

(this is a front one)





or, you'll have the halfshafts still attached to the rear hubs, which is the easier method, considering you don't have to get the shafts pressed out of the hubs (and pressed back in)





If you want to start with the easier end, start with the front. Jack up both sides, and support with jack stands. I guess you could do one side at a time, if you want. Remove your wheels, and start looking at how everything fits together.

Here is a pic of the front driver's side hub assembly, still on the car:



On the left side of the pic, you can see where the steering arm connects to the hub assembly with a castle nut and cotter pin. The blue thing on the right is the shock absorber, attached to the hub assembly with 2 nuts/bolts. At the bottom of the shock, in the pic, you can see where the lower control arm ball joint is attached with a pinch bolt (the real grungy looking thing). These are the only points (that I can remember) that are holding the front hubs on. Before removing these, be sure to remove the clip holding the brake line to the wheel well with some pliars, then remove the brake line using a flare-nut wrench. I can't recall the size. The brake line on the rear can be seen here, which is similar line location for the front:



Then install the front assemblies, just as you removed them. Torqueing them to spec is a good idea, but I'm not sure of the values right now. I will post them later. And if anyone knows if the calipers need to be bench bled, let me know. I bled all the brakes after completing the whole swap.

banzaitoyota

The half-shafts are not a press fit, they are a slip fit. Use a dead-blow hammer to knock them out. John

Baldy

and now for the rear!

Jack up the rear end, and support on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Remove the brake lines. Sadly enough, the only good pic of how the rear mounting points is above. If you look in the halfshaft pic, and the brake line pic, you can see the mounting points. I believe there are 3 bolts holding this assembly on. The one that gave me trouble is the one that is slanted a little, not vertical or horizontal. It is below the caliper. I found it easier to only loosen this bolt, there is no need to remove it right away. The reason is that the dust shield is in the way. My donor hubs already had these bolts in them, so I did not need to figure out how to get them in. I'm sure you can do it with some persuasion on the dust shields.



You then need to remove the halfshafts from the differential. This is very easy. In the pic, you will see where it connects by way of 4 nuts. Remove these, and wiggle it free of the differential. The hardest part, I found, was getting the halfshafts all the out of the car.





It took me quite awile, and very much wiggling, but I did it! You have no idea how tired and hungry I was at this point. If someone knows a better way of getting these out without a press, please feel free to share. (edit: just read John's response...thanks!)





Getting the new ones in proved to be just as difficult, but I had some help.

Attach the halfshafts to the differential, and replace all mounting bolts, torquing to spec. Attach the brake lines.

I believe the brakes need to be bled starting on passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, ending with driver front.



After this mod, I was told that the GXL master cylinder and brake booster also need to be swapped, which I have yet to do.

banzaitoyota

And the GXL/TII Proportioning valve

Baldy

that attaches to the MC, am I right?

Baldy

and I know now that I did more work than necessary, but hopefully my experience will help someone learn from my mistakes

SeventyMach1

Exactly what all parts do I need to get 4 the swap??? Including all that MC stuff??? And what is a good donor car???

Baldy

My donor supplies were from a GXL, I'm not sure what year. You need the 5-lug hubs, preferably the 4-piston brake calipers, the brake lines for these calipers, the master cylinder, the brake proportioning valve, and the brake booster.



Someone let me know if I'm leaving anything out.



Some steps I forgot:

When doing the rear, don't forget to disengage the e-brake, and remove the cables from the rear brakes before removing the hubs. And don't forget to reinstall the e-brake cables!



And throughout it all, it's a good idea to inspect your ball joints up front (mine needed replacing), and the seals around the halfshafts, and anything else that looks like it could go bad.