This is a short post, I will fill in later all the details.

I have a 1990 and 1991 Cosmo front clips in my shop, a 1987 TII shell for the motor and a microtech lt12 on the way. The TII is gutted, the wiring is being simplifyed, and the 20b's are soaking in MMO to get rid of that damn carbon.



Heres a handful of questions:

Is a Koyo aluminum radiator going to be enough?

Does anyone have pictures of 20b FC3S engine mounts? Im fabing my own but would like some idea of what I am working towards.

How have you guys handled the motor sitting so far away from the firewall and close to the stock rad location? (My Solution is removing the stock rad mounts, fabing my own, and a electric fan. I dont want to move the tranny/ shorten the driveshaft, I would need a new oil pan.)

Im using a modifyed cosmo sway bar, anyone else doing that? Seems to work just fine.



Ill get some more info, pics, and questions up later.

How carboned up were your engines? MMO worked on mine and didn't destroy the oil o-rings.

Here's some pics from http://www.banzairacing.net/. They look similar to the k2rd mounts that I have.



-Destin

another one installed.

They list them at $215 on there site and $330 with the urethane mounts.



-Destin

[quote name='sillbeer' date='May 12 2005, 04:20 PM']They list them at $215 on there site and $330 with the urethane mounts.



-Destin


[/quote]



Cool thanks!



Heres todays progress:

The wiring harness got it today :-D.

Removed anything I dont need anymore. Now to cover up all those ends....

http://img60.echo.cx/img60/6941/wiring2oe.jpg

[quote name='the spyder' date='May 12 2005, 10:52 AM']Is a Koyo aluminum radiator going to be enough?

Im using a modifyed cosmo sway bar, anyone else doing that? Seems to work just fine.



Ill get some more info, pics, and questions up later.


[/quote]



nope, you need something huge by big up there. remember the 20b has the 30% more heat coming off of it than the fd does...

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='May 13 2005, 05:34 AM']nope, you need something huge by big up there. remember the 20b has the 30% more heat coming off of it than the fd does...


[/quote]



Looks like I can squeeze a 28x19x2 or 3 in there with a electric fan.

Any suggestions?



Today work, the mounts-

http://img220.echo.cx/img220/2481/20bmountdriver5qx.jpg

http://img141.echo.cx/img141/7039/20bmountpass7qk.jpg

Check this out for cooling. I have a griffin rad in my gs300. It seems to work pretty good. I'll have them custom make me one when the time comes to put my car back together.



http://www.se-rx7.com/20b/cool.html



-Destin

[quote name='sillbeer' date='May 13 2005, 01:55 PM']Check this out for cooling. I have a griffin rad in my gs300. It seems to work pretty good. I'll have them custom make me one when the time comes to put my car back together.



http://www.se-rx7.com/20b/cool.html



-Destin


[/quote]

Thank you! I denfinity needed the links you have there.



I however need an opinion!! I have this installed and the mounts in place, well im not to happy with the fact the hood will not shut even with the waterpump assebmly off. Its hitting the TB coolant line.



I have came to 3 solutions to this.

1) gut the hood a bit.

2) Do the TB mod and remove that line.

3) Drop the engine 1/2inch lower. If I grind away the lip on the steering rack hold down (only the driver mount, left side of it), I can easily have 1/2inch more room, with a 1/4inch clearance between it and the pan.



Looks like I custom sway bar will be manufactured for me at the cost of the stock.

I have an fd water pump and housing on mine with a custom filler neck. No hood clearance issues. I read on that site I listed above that the 20b thermostat housing won't clear even with the hood braces taken out of that area. I don't know first hand though.



-Destin

i had to gut my hood a bit, it had (has? same setup is in another car) the cosmo thermostat housing with the elbow rotated to face the other way

I have the motor that Mike (j9fd3s) is talking about. I had to cut into my hood as well, but it really isn't bad at all. At some point I might get rid of the stock thermo housing and go with one from an FC or FD, but I'm not sure yet.



To answer your question about fitment issue with the radiator, I had a section cut out of the stock radiator mounts so I could stand the radiator straight up and down. With an electric fan it fit fine. My one complaint is that the bottom of the radiator now sits below the belly pan. I can solve that by getting a custom sized radiator. Not that big a deal.



reese

Progress today . Mounts are cut, welded, and installed .

http://img201.echo.cx/img201/1708/mount15jg.jpg

http://img201.echo.cx/img201/2739/mount29vf.jpg

http://img201.echo.cx/img201/9948/mounted3qr.jpg

[quote name='the spyder' date='May 12 2005, 10:52 AM']Is a Koyo aluminum radiator going to be enough?[/quote]

It doesn't fit in the stock locations.





Cut metal in the way.

Weld in a new support for new radiator.





We make our own 20B bar that fits in the stock location.





-Ted

[quote name='RETed' date='May 16 2005, 07:16 AM']It doesn't fit in the stock locations.

Cut metal in the way.

Weld in a new support for new radiator.

We make our own 20B bar that fits in the stock location.

-Ted


[/quote]



I realized that as soon as the motor was in the car, and I was already planning on making new radiator mounts, along with a custom sway bar.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Should be interesting when finished.

How much clearance is there between the oil pan and the steering rack?



-Destin

[quote name='nota944' date='May 14 2005, 07:46 AM']I have the motor that Mike (j9fd3s) is talking about. I had to cut into my hood as well, but it really isn't bad at all. At some point I might get rid of the stock thermo housing and go with one from an FC or FD, but I'm not sure yet.



To answer your question about fitment issue with the radiator, I had a section cut out of the stock radiator mounts so I could stand the radiator straight up and down. With an electric fan it fit fine. My one complaint is that the bottom of the radiator now sits below the belly pan. I can solve that by getting a custom sized radiator. Not that big a deal.



reese


[/quote]



if i did another, i think id use the fd stuff, i think its a little shorter, or could easily be made to be shorter

[quote name='sillbeer' date='May 16 2005, 08:50 PM']How much clearance is there between the oil pan and the steering rack?



-Destin


[/quote]



1/4of an inch on the one "hump" of the rack.





Ordered my custom fluidyne aluminum radiator today.

28x19x3 double pass. $219

How much are you cutting out for your radiator? I measured and could only fit 26 1/2" wide or so. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



-Destin

[quote name='sillbeer' date='May 17 2005, 10:45 PM']How much are you cutting out for your radiator? I measured and could only fit 26 1/2" wide or so. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



-Destin


[/quote]



Frame rail to frame rail is 29" I believe, I will toss a tape on it when I get done with classes today.

[quote name='the spyder' date='May 18 2005, 08:47 AM']Frame rail to frame rail is 29" I believe, I will toss a tape on it when I get done with classes today.


[/quote]



Hurms looks like if I wanted to I could squeeze a 28 in there. However... Looks likea 26 it will be! Just because its much simpler then screwing with 1/2inch of clearance at most on each side.



Hoof hearted should be in here any time soon, he should also hurry up and order the 26x19x3 radiator https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png.

I'm going to order a custom radiator from Griffin. I bought one from them for my gs300 and they did an excellent job. Probably 26x19x3.



-Destin

[quote name='sillbeer' date='May 18 2005, 05:15 PM']I'm going to order a custom radiator from Griffin. I bought one from them for my gs300 and they did an excellent job. Probably 26x19x3.



-Destin


[/quote]

How much for there custom one?

[quote name='the spyder' date='May 18 2005, 12:47 PM']Hurms looks like if I wanted to I could squeeze a 28 in there. However... Looks likea 26 it will be! Just because its much simpler then screwing with 1/2inch of clearance at most on each side.



Hoof hearted should be in here any time soon, he should also hurry up and order the 26x19x3 radiator https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png.


[/quote]



Ordered this morning. Aluminum radiator from Fluidyne.

[quote name='hoofhearted' date='May 19 2005, 12:35 PM']How much for there custom one?


[/quote]





I was the first person to request a radiator for the lexus gs300 so I sent them mine as a template. They cut me a deal since I sent them my original. $300. Not sure how much they charge for the same radiator though.



-Destin

I got the aluminum flywheel, stage 3 clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, needle bearing and clutch alignment tool, delivered to me yesterday. Should be installed by this weekend.



Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch;

Segmented Kevlar disc;

Segmented Kevlar friction material;

Precision heat treated single diaphragm;

Re-arched diaphragm for supior disengagement;

Heavy-duty straps;

Very high clamping force;

Steel backing plate;

Spring Hub;

OEM or better releasing bearing;

Pilot bearing;

Alignmnet Tool;



I had to buy more than one to get a discount. If any one wants the other it's for sale ($595 retail) - $516.00 + shipping (no handling costs, just actual shipping costs.)



Also got a Fidanza aluminum flywheel at a super price 350.00 + shipping (had to buy more than one). The second aluminum flywheel is for sale.



I still have FS an extra clutch set and aluminum flywheel for a TII. The flywheel is suppose to fit all 13b's RX4-RX8 (and 20b's) but need a flex plate. Reduced price if you mention you saw it here on the 20b forum.



[attachment=31016:attachment]

Well im sick so this is going to be on hold until parts get here.....



Plus the other 20b car got here saturday night.....................



http://img137.echo.cx/img137/1306/18gd.jpg

hello does anyone know the weight increase th 20b with a single turbo converison has over the 13b? and can mst of the weight be counterd if replacing items such as bumpers finders and hood with carbon fiber/ fiberglass? thank you and you hav a nice car.

26x19x3



3" race core



3" inlet/outlet



5 bar pressure tested



Core Length : 24"



Core Height: 12"



Core Thickness: 3"



Inlet Size: 3"



Outlet Size: 3"



End to End" Length: 780.5mm"



[attachment=31834:attachment][attachment=31835:attachment][attachment=31836:attachment]

[quote name='hoofhearted' date='Jun 15 2005, 05:28 AM']26x19x3



3" race core



3" inlet/outlet



5 bar pressure tested



Core Length : 24"



Core Height: 12"



Core Thickness: 3"



Inlet Size: 3"



Outlet Size: 3"



End to End" Length: 780.5mm"



[attachment=31834:attachment][attachment=31835:attachment][attachment=31836:attachment]


[/quote]



How did you decide on that core size? -Looks nice.

[quote name='ccarlisi' date='Jun 15 2005, 03:29 PM']How did you decide on that core size? -Looks nice.


[/quote]

I just went for the bigest one available that would still fit next to the radiator. I may have been able to get one with a larger core (4") but they were significantly more expensive. So budget played a role in the selection. The total price (shipped) was $209.

[quote name='ROTARY20B' date='Jun 4 2005, 06:14 AM']hello does anyone know the weight increase th 20b with a single turbo converison has over the 13b? and can mst of the weight be counterd if replacing items such as bumpers finders and hood with carbon fiber/ fiberglass? thank you and you hav a nice car.


[/quote]



my fc went from 2860lbs with the stock turbo 20b to 2820 with the 13bt. rest of the car is the same

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Jun 16 2005, 08:40 AM']my fc went from 2860lbs with the stock turbo 20b to 2820 with the 13bt. rest of the car is the same


[/quote]



That has to be a typo somehow, right?

I doubt it. My tiny little GLC ought to break even weight-wise over the front tires when I relocate the battery to the rear hatch area. The reason for my reasoning came from weighing all the parts of the heavy 13B that I built for my REPU which spent some time in the GLC, and comparing them with the lighter parts of an S5 13B/20B, adding them together, and then subtracting whatever amounts I needed to subtract, and arrived at a weight increase of only about 40lbs with the 20B and its position in the engine bay. By keeping the front of the engine in the same place and moving the tranny rearward, it shifted some of the weight away from the front end of the car. Removing the battery from the front corner of the engine bay will further help to reduce the front end weight. The only weight I actually added to the front was an oil cooler, but it doesn't weigh all that much (aluminum). The thing that really tripped me up was the intake and exhaust weighing almost exactly the same, and yet the 20B versions extend further rearward than the 13B stuff. Oh, and the aluminum water pump from an NA S4 weighs a lot less than a 1st gen cast iron unit or a stock JC Cosmo unit. Since I'm NA, I could get away with an S4 water pump. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



The car is up on jack stands and the battery is still up front. I'll let it down pretty soon to see how low the front end actually goes with that extra 40lbs of 20B hanging over the front end. Actually, it's probably closer to 75-80lbs when comparing to S5 engines, but I'm comparing to an old 4 port 13B with an REPU flywheel, which weighs quite a bit more, even without the heavy flywheel, than '86 and later 13Bs. The 20B got an aftermarket light steel flywheel for even more weight savings. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0070.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0071.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0072.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0073.JPG

That looks like some progress. As for my progress, I finally got around to weighing a group size 24 battery, which is the same type as in the engine bay of my car. It turned out to be 41.5lbs. Oh man, that is so cool! It fits right in to my estimated 40lbs! If I relocate it, the front end should weigh the same as when it had my REPU's 13B in it. A set of Racing Beat springs should stiffen the front end up to where it would be if it had a lighter engine and stock springs, and take care of any other weight issues as well. Thoughts?

Ok.

Im still recovering from mono/ car accident so progress has been very slow. But I am getting energy back and everything seems to be going smoothly. Only missing a handfull of parts (fuel line, block off plates, dual alt belt pully).



Today I setup the engine to be installed in the car.

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/20bengine1.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/20bengine2.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/20bengine3.JPG



Tommorow I will prep the car and finish the wiring harness.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Relocated red top optima.

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0063.JPG

Where the microtech lives...

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...064-200085.jpg

Radiator, oil cooler, and intercooler mounted and ready to test!

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...065-309693.jpg



Im working on the piping, wiring, and fuel system tommorow. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Wow. Its been a long day. I did 95% of the wiring. Installed the walbro, mounted the coils, re wired the fuel pump.

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...067-841934.jpg

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...069-954943.jpg

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...070-846749.jpg

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...071-842594.jpg

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...072-648778.jpg

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/defaul...0073-76876.jpg

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0074.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0084.JPG

http://www.supload.com/thumbs/default/IMG_0085.JPG

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