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distributor set up

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Old 09-07-2007, 04:59 PM
  #11  
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thanks man! very helpful!



i can weld and my fabbing skills are decent. thanks for all the help.
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Old 09-07-2007, 08:08 PM
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just to note the cdi ignition stands for capacitor discharge ignition(like what ya get on a chainsaw)
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Old 09-07-2007, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hsmidy' post='882199' date='Sep 7 2007, 06:08 PM
just to note the cdi ignition stands for capacitor discharge ignition(like what ya get on a chainsaw)




Sometimes I would like to take a chainsaw to my 20b!



I am still struggling to decide to stay with EFI or switch to a carb. I spoke with Pineapple today, and they had some interesting ideas for mounting carbs...
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Old 09-08-2007, 12:35 PM
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I stuggled too. I eventually went EFI with a MegaSquirt. I got it to run well enough to drive it around the block. That's it so far.
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Old 09-08-2007, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='882238' date='Sep 8 2007, 10:35 AM
I stuggled too. I eventually went EFI with a MegaSquirt. I got it to run well enough to drive it around the block. That's it so far.




Mike and I got mine to run around on the stock ecu for awhile, but we were trying to trick the ecu thinking it was seeing all the solenoids, odds and ends... but something was off.



We than tried hooking up a Haltech E11V2 to the stock wiring harness... we thought we found a short... so we tried to make a wiring harness from the existing 20b harness just for he Haltech... needless to say, that didn't work...



I would like to try and track down a Haltech wiring harness and attach it to the factory sensors/ solenoids (ie. TPS, map, air, injectors, coils, and dist.). We were able to get readings from each of the necessary components for this to run (plus I was running a map that was driving another 20b)... but I have a funny feeling I might have to use the Haltech sensors and solenoids (which would suck).



Why not weld two Weber flanges to the side of the plenum add a couple 48 ida's hook gas and a throttle cable (along with the 20b dizzy) and call it good. At least I would get to drive my FC vert again!



Pineapple suggested taking 2 13b intake manifolds, cut one in half, run a both sides of the 48 ida on the uncut side and bolt another 48 ida to the cut side and have blank injectors (essentially rendering it non-op). Rob (at pineapple) said it was the easiest way and guarantee’s the manifold is designed properly. Or just take two Peripheral Port Weber intakes from RB and do the same thing with a down draft carb...



I don't know, I am open to suggestions! I have all the parts (minus the wiring harness) for the EFI. But there is something simple and unique by doing the carbs!
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Old 09-09-2007, 01:34 PM
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I can't tell you what to do.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='882299' date='Sep 9 2007, 11:34 AM
I can't tell you what to do.


Yeah, I know. It is just a matter of how much time and money I want to spend.



I think I will pick up a Hatech wiring harness and give it a shot. I also have a line in an extra plenum. It would be cool to try and weld a couple IDO flanges on the side where the throttle body would be and add two side draft 48/51 ida's!



Thanks for the advice, and good luck with yours!
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:45 AM
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https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=7980
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='882462' date='Sep 11 2007, 09:45 AM




Did you make that?



Also, addressing your old post on carb'd 20b,



I was thinking the stock plenum with two ~48 (or 51) sidedraft ida’s replacing the throttle body would do the trick. Each ida is about 6in and the plenum is about 12in wide. And by having the ida’s spread across the entire plenum that should allow each rotor to receive plenty of fuel (without messing with factory R/D, and leaning out either the front or rear rotor). Can you think of any difficulties with that design?
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