Buzzbomb

I finally got the tank in, after getting all the needed suplies, etc. I got to the point of cranking it up, and

felt like I had accomplished something other than getting dirty. After a pretty extended cranking with it

sputtering but never catching an idle, I went to check things out. The secondaries were filled to the top

with fresh gas . Needless to say that freaked me out a bit, and I got a rag and my blower, and blew

it out thoroughly.



About that time my friend shows up, and he's better than me with engines, so he checks it

out. The only theory that we could come up with, was that the floats/float in the carb were stuck open, and flooding the carb with gas. It was actually dripping it from the muffler by that point. It was more than bit scary. I had visions of it finally starting, and the exhaust system exploding like a bomb, haha. So we grab a small hammer and tapped the bowls, which worked pretty well, no more extreme flooding. Except now that it would start but no idle at all, because the floats seemed stuck down. It will stay running and sounds very healthy, as long as you have a rag covering the primaries.





Also, has anyone been successful at locating a new/reman carb? Every place I went today, said that will be $400-$450 please, before realizing they were out of stock. Nobody had one, or could order one from their supplier. I guess I am going back to ol MazMax again, and begging a used working one from them. Hope they're reasonable.

Buzzbomb

Nobody huh? Oh well. This morning I'm going to undo the banjo fittings, and fill the bowls with B-12 or seafoam, that ought to get them unstuck! I'll let them soak while I'm gone to Dallas for two days. I use the stuff to soak 50 year old bicycle bearings for my other hobby. I have seen it remove some pretty nasty junk, like grease the consistency of dried permatex, so it should work. I hope!,,,,BB

j9fd3s

why dont you just get a new needle and seat(s)?

Buzzbomb

Well, cracking it open would be my last resort. I'd rather just have a full on rebuilt, and

skip messing with it. Do the rebuild kits have the needle(s)?? That may be an option. There are 2 things I don't mess with if I can help it. Carbs, and automatic transmissions. I have a friend that is a carb rebuilding fool,

be he cannot do anything for me until next Thursday. I was kind of hoping I'd be driving it by then.

j9fd3s

yeah i hear you on that one. a few years ago i had an 83 we decided needed a carb, to make a long story short, i ended up rebuilding it twice and it wasnt that bad. the long bit is that the carb was fine, and it needed an air pump and acv....

Buzzbomb

Why does thing quote the previous post every time? Any way to turn that off?







Sorry I am not fluent in rotary term abrv. yet? What's an ACV? My car starts and runs like a champ, until the

gas you pour down the carb runs out, lol. The filling of the secondaries, and the subsequent no fuel at all, makes it seem like the carb is the likely culprit. I do need to rebuild the OMP/MOP though. The lines are completely clear of any oil. I imagine it has given up. I am pretty sure I want that done before

it hits the road. I don't know if it was even working back when it was parked ten years ago. Slowly but surely I will be whipping this 7 back into shape, hopefully with the existing engine. I already know more than I wanted to know about the rotary engine, hehe.





I also found someone selling carbs on ebay, yet he refuses to offer a warranty. He has a BIN of $300. It's kind of a trade off, since the ones that are $100 more have a 12/12. I can see his point of view, but no warranty at all?? That doesn't do much for a buyers confidence. He also refused to disclose the brand of kit used. I have no doubt they could be awesome and work like a charm, but still, back to the no warranty for me. Well, he didn't really refuse, he kind of talked around it, and didn't give up the name. He has 100% feedback, so depending on the price I get from Maz/Max locally, I will probably buy one of his. Not a single store in town can get one, sheesh....,,,,BB







Here's his message......



The kits are from a reputable company we have dealt with for years , make the kits themselves- it is what they do for all model carbs. This carb would work very well for your car and give you no problems... As for a warranty, the fuel tank and lines would need to be flushed completely and the filters all replaced by a verifiable mechanic for us to consider going out on that limb- the tanks on these older models have been rusting and flooding the carb and filters with rust and gunk that ruins both. Let me know if you have any questions, I'll be happy to help.

BeaterRX7

For a little more money you can have Sterling or RX7Carl (PB&J Racing) rebuild and modify your carb. As far as the problem you're currently having, hook up a gauge to your fuel line and check your pressure. A stock Nikki needs 2.5 psi. If you're getting a constant 2.5 psi and still have trouble it's probably time for a carb rebuild - especially if it's been sitting ten years.



The ACV helps eliminate backfires. It bolts to the side of them manifold and has a tendency to get carboned up. Even if so, it's not the source of your problem.



There used to be a shop that sold a complete kit for rebuilding oil metering pumps. Lowe Performance IIRC, but I don't remember their web address. I'd also replace the metering pump lines. They're pretty cheap, and usually when they get old the oil leaks out of the rubber bends. As a temp fix you can replace them with vacuum hose, but you won't be able to see the oil flow, so get new ones ASAP.

BeaterRX7

For a little more money you can have Sterling or RX7Carl (PB&J Racing) rebuild and modify your carb. As far as the problem you're currently having, hook up a gauge to your fuel line and check your pressure. A stock Nikki needs 2.5 psi. If you're getting a constant 2.5 psi and still have trouble it's probably time for a carb rebuild - especially if it's been sitting ten years.



The ACV helps eliminate backfires. It bolts to the side of them manifold and has a tendency to get carboned up. Even if so, it's not the source of your problem.



There used to be a shop that sold a complete kit for rebuilding oil metering pumps. Lowe Performance IIRC, but I don't remember their web address. I'd also replace the metering pump lines. They're pretty cheap, and usually when they get old the oil leaks out of the rubber bends. As a temp fix you can replace them with vacuum hose, but you won't be able to see the oil flow, so get new ones ASAP.

Bstrickler

What year is your engine? I could sell you a stock carb (possibly rebuilt, if its the same year as one of the ones we rebuilt) for a decent price.

Buzzbomb

1982 model, no turbo or anything. 5 speed, AC, etc etc. I think it's a GSL if that makes any difference?,,,,BB