I thought it was a SE as well.But this car was a auto before and all I could get for info from the juckyard guys was that the motor in it when they got it was shot.I will try adding some gussets like BCRX7 said and hope for the best.I have had the crossmember done like this for quite awhile but only had time to install it this last weekend.If I can't figure this out I think I will have no options other than to drop in a NA again. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

Yeah, just add gussets. I think I'll have to add something to mine too.

I realize I have worked too hard and too long to get this far into this project to back out now so I will find a way to make it work.After all I work for a fabrication shop.Plus I spent alot on this car($11,000 in 11 months hurts the wallet).Just scope the garage when you get the chance. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Weld the trans mount to the cross member. Box the cross member so it will not twist. You still have the rubber mounts between the cross member and frame to eliminate vibration. I welded mine. Worked good. Removing the mount from the trans was time consuming on mine but well worth it. Photo shows welding in red and the cross member boxed in with a added brace from the cross member to the piece of metal that goes to the trans mount.

Just a suggestion.

chuck

I might take a picture of the T shaped GLC mount for the 13B later today.

Weld the mount to the crossmember?Wont that cause serious vibration tho?

I did not notice a increase in vibration. You still have the rubber bushings between the cross member and body. Worked great for me. After breaking a few trans mounts, this is what I ended up doing to solve this problem. Ran this for over a year with no regrets.



chuck

Won't the heat cause the rubber to seperate from the steel on the mount tho.Wouldn't it be easier just to drill a solid chunk of steel and bolt all three together then?

racerx

I don't know which would be easier/better, making brackets or welding it all together. For me, welding took 5 minutes. My trans mount was directly on top the the cross member so I just added a piece of metal between the two and welded. It was a bit of a pain to remove the mount from the trans but well worth the effort. Making brackets would allow removal easier but making the brackets would take more effort. About the heat thing. I really don't think there is enough heat back there to transfer to the body. That is allot of metal to have to heat to finally get to and heat the body. Maybe if you only boxed in the cross member and added the extra brace from the bottom of the cross member to the middle of the metal that is attached to the trans mount. It looks like the cross member is twisting in your photo.



I felt welding the two together was best for me and it is only a suggestion for you. The 1st gen mount were only designed for 100hp and my car was well over that, this is why I welded them. I also made a engine/trans brace and secured the front mounts better.

chuck

Yeah I know what you are saying about that subframe.I have been debating building one myself.Couldn't I get the same vibration dampning off that stock tranny mount and leave off the frame to crossmember rubber mounts?I think I could get most of the hieght needed this way.