This thing looks like it will snap under the load that my T04E can put out.What do you guys think.This car obviously used to be a auto before it went to the junkyard.

looks like it's already sagging?



i wouldnt rely on it

Its new too.I just finished the last parts of it.I will weld it solid but its about 70% welded right now too.This pisses me off.I hope I don't have to swap out the T2 driveline. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

the point where it attaches to the trans has too much leverage over the bracket going to the car for my liking, I'd probably make new holes in the body for the bracket to mount to, under the trans mount location.



or move the trans back to where it can use the stock bracket location appropriately and have the driveshaft shortened.

Theres only two problems with doing either of those.A: The the drivetrain only goes so far back before my TII clutch slave hits the firewall plus my shift is in the sweet spot where it sits.B: I will have to weld some steel directly under the tranny to make it sit the way its supposed to.Why does this **** always happen to me? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif This swap is usually fairly easy but this is begining to piss me off. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Doesn't look like it will hold.

I think you'll have to go with option B.

I thought you has a gsl-se you were doing this to? Either way I woulden't use that mount you have there. So the auto FB's have the crossmember mounts more rearword on the body?

the load is gonna be down. you need to somehow make that so you can take a downward load on it. i'm thinking of a cantilever setup, and use the stock mounting bolts as the center pivot, but that might just be nuts https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

My GLC has something like that to fit the 13B. It tilts too. :(

That will break for sure. To fix it add two piece of metal to each side like I have in the picture:



So you basically want two side pieces at 90 degrees so they nothing flexes. Probably one side piece would be enough, but two is better.

I thought it was a SE as well.But this car was a auto before and all I could get for info from the juckyard guys was that the motor in it when they got it was shot.I will try adding some gussets like BCRX7 said and hope for the best.I have had the crossmember done like this for quite awhile but only had time to install it this last weekend.If I can't figure this out I think I will have no options other than to drop in a NA again. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR

Yeah, just add gussets. I think I'll have to add something to mine too.

I realize I have worked too hard and too long to get this far into this project to back out now so I will find a way to make it work.After all I work for a fabrication shop.Plus I spent alot on this car($11,000 in 11 months hurts the wallet).Just scope the garage when you get the chance. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Weld the trans mount to the cross member. Box the cross member so it will not twist. You still have the rubber mounts between the cross member and frame to eliminate vibration. I welded mine. Worked good. Removing the mount from the trans was time consuming on mine but well worth it. Photo shows welding in red and the cross member boxed in with a added brace from the cross member to the piece of metal that goes to the trans mount.

Just a suggestion.

chuck

I might take a picture of the T shaped GLC mount for the 13B later today.

Weld the mount to the crossmember?Wont that cause serious vibration tho?

I did not notice a increase in vibration. You still have the rubber bushings between the cross member and body. Worked great for me. After breaking a few trans mounts, this is what I ended up doing to solve this problem. Ran this for over a year with no regrets.



chuck

Won't the heat cause the rubber to seperate from the steel on the mount tho.Wouldn't it be easier just to drill a solid chunk of steel and bolt all three together then?

racerx

I don't know which would be easier/better, making brackets or welding it all together. For me, welding took 5 minutes. My trans mount was directly on top the the cross member so I just added a piece of metal between the two and welded. It was a bit of a pain to remove the mount from the trans but well worth the effort. Making brackets would allow removal easier but making the brackets would take more effort. About the heat thing. I really don't think there is enough heat back there to transfer to the body. That is allot of metal to have to heat to finally get to and heat the body. Maybe if you only boxed in the cross member and added the extra brace from the bottom of the cross member to the middle of the metal that is attached to the trans mount. It looks like the cross member is twisting in your photo.



I felt welding the two together was best for me and it is only a suggestion for you. The 1st gen mount were only designed for 100hp and my car was well over that, this is why I welded them. I also made a engine/trans brace and secured the front mounts better.

chuck

Yeah I know what you are saying about that subframe.I have been debating building one myself.Couldn't I get the same vibration dampning off that stock tranny mount and leave off the frame to crossmember rubber mounts?I think I could get most of the hieght needed this way.

i think i might make the tranny mount to body mount piece almost like this. (in red)

So chuck would this work?Mike I love that drawing,You're a real artist.

The only thing that might be wrong with the drawing above is the bottom of the trans mount has to be the same height as the top of the cross member.

What ever you do decide, just tack it in place and try that first. ( car idle for vibration ) If you do not like it the tack welds are easy to remove. Just a thought.

chuck

Look at this.

I know it's hard to tell with the fisheye effect of the camera, but it looks like it'll hold.

Mine I used some 2"OD washers and no rubber mounts on the crossmember and it sits good now. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Still have more work ahead of me tho.I want my 83 running before I touch that turbo again tho. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

One of my rubber washers is messed up so I'll put another one in when it's time to do the 20B.



Suprisingly, the tilt isn't all that bad on mine.