thatpoorguy

It shouldn't smoke after all that, diagnosing cars takes one step at a time, so change the modulator and tune it and let us know what she's doing from there.

blandry23

ok will do. It's still cold as hell here in NY hopefully it warms up otherwise im gonna have to nut up and get under there in the freezing cold. I checked my Haynes manual for stuff on the Automatic Transmission it really doesn't elaborate it just says if theres a problem with your AT it means multiple things have failed and to take it into a competent transmission specialist or a Mazda dealer. Nothing on changing the modulator. It should at least have the AT stuff in there in case you wanna tackle it yourself but it'd probably be a whole other book.



today something unfortunate happened while i was getting ready for school. I was warming her up and I popped the hood to check all my fluids. A gust of wind caught my hood as i was pulling it up and i didn't catch it in time. It bent as forward as it could go. Fortunately for me there was no damage to the hood or surrounding area but there are a couple of places that the paint had chipped. Needless to say it made me quite upset. But to end this sad story does anyone know where i can get touch up paint to match the factory color? I have Silver. My car has barely any scratches or chips otherwise i wouldn't bother with it.

1988RedT2

I don't have any idea on the paint, but regarding the vacuum modulator, just get a new one (they're like 30 bucks, rockauto has 'em), and go under the car looking for something that looks like what you just bought. It screws right into the side of the tranny case and has a vacuum line coming off of it that runs up to the engine. Ya can't miss it!

blandry23

Ok thanks man. It actualy took me 20 minutes to find I was looking in all the wrong places lol and it's sorta hard to maneuver underneath that car. But upon installing the effect was instantaneous. I started her up, no smoke at all. The only problem I may have is that I didn't tighten it up enough it may be leaking a bit. What would be the best thing tp use to tighten it without damaging it? There's no place to use a wrench.

thatpoorguy

Box end wrench won't fit? What size are the bolts?

blandry23

There aren't any. It just screws straight in and the whole thing is cylindrical. But now I also have another less serious problem. My car is from NY so it has Cali. Emissions standards. There's a tamper-proof cap on the idle mix screw and also a special tool is needed to adjust the screw. How do I get the cap off? Tried pulling and twisting it. Manual doesn't say how to get the cap off it only provides the part number for the tool needed to adjust the screw.

Kentetsu

I haven't been on here in a few months, so I've got a little catching up to do. lol.







Everything you need to know about these carbs can be found at www.sterlingmetalworks.com



Glad someone brought up that modulator before you replaced your motor!



As far as that issue with no power unless barely giving gas, or wide open, I would check for clogged jets in the carb. You can remove the small access bolts by the little windows, then reach in with a small screwdriver and loosen the jets. Then reach in with a wooden toothpick, jam that into the jet, and use that to unscrew it the rest of the way and pull it out of the bowl. Use the reverse method to reinstall. That way you don't have to remove the carb from the car.



On the other hand, a rebuild kit is only 30 bucks or so, and it could probably use it.



Anyway, best of luck to you.

blandry23

ive been thinking that it might be a combo of the carb and the tranny. I have gas in the oil so i know im more then likely running rich but i'll hit the gas and the rpm's will increase but my road speed won't increase along with the rpm's. the best way i can explain it is like when i have my foot a little on the gas im accelerating but when i hit the gas more it still accelerates at the same pace (maybe a little bit faster) as if i was riding with the clutch half engaged. Once i hit maybe like 2500 rpm's she pulls like a dream though. Also, I checked the tranny fluid (even before i changed it 5k miles ago) and it didn't smell burnt at all it was a little dark if anything. I just went to autozone and got lucas gear oil. I saw stuff for the trans from lucas but no oil so maybe they don't have it in yet but i will check again. I went to that link you posted by the way and it helped me understand the workings of a carb so much better than i did before. I only knew what it said that it was basically a really intricate fuel delivery system. It also helped me understand the whole volumetric efficiency thing and how to make the VE of my engine better. but anyways, based on this new information would you still suspect that it could be the carb alone? I'm about to go buy that Lucas transmission additive which says it would help fix tranny slippage unless the belts are completely worn but that might be the reason why i got an almost mint condition car (it had 60k when i bought it and virtually no rust whatsoever) for $3k.

Kentetsu

Yeah, it sounds like your tranny is slipping so I think the Lucas addative would be a good thing to try. Or, maybe you have a problem with the torque converter? Not sure, I hate auto trannys. lol. I trust your fluid level is right? I believe this is checked when hot, and with the engine running. Low fluid level can start the TC and cause slipping, but that's about the extent of my knowledge in that area.



Good luck!

thatpoorguy

Also gear oil is for manual trans, you need ATF. If you use gear oil you can destroy the trans. The clutches in the trans could be slipping and the additive would help with that.