Adam Barnes

It just seems to be missing the pilot bearing seal. From what I've read the 'older' style kits didn't come with one, but it helps prolong the bearing life by keeping bits of clutch dust out of it. I need a few misc hoses for my heater so I may just order them with one...

Adam Barnes

Tried an ez-out on the old bolt and snapped it in half. Regular drill bit would just bounce off. Cobalt drill bit would just bounce off. Sharpened a carbide tipped masonry bit and cut through it like butter. Shattered carbide tip when I went all the way through the ez-out and bolt hitting cast block.
Threading hole back to 8x1.25 like a boss.
New thermostat housing mounted as just to see if it fits. I still need to clean up the block mounting surface a bit and most likely use some silicone to help it seal. It's a bit pitted from years of leaking...
Replacing the o-rings on my beehive so it won't leak all over my engine anymore. I was considering replacing the two on the block, but those won't leak on the radiator hose under the beehive. Not sure if I want to risk cracking the banjo bolts. I can live with a small leak. I'm pretty sure the main leak was coming from between the beehive and mounting plate. It had fresh oil smeared all across the entire surface when I pulled it off. Got some Viton o-rings. Do these look like the correct size, or do I need to go down a size (or possibly two)? The ones in the pic are 13.95x2.62 and have a little wiggle room on all sides...not much. Also have 12.37x2.62 and 10.77x2.62...
Also curious what the little metal cylinder is in the lower right of the photo. Wire has been brittle for a while, but it finally broke while I was messing with the slave cylinder. I thought it might have been some sort of thermal doo-dad or something that went with the old emissions system...never have figured it out, but figured I should check to see if I need to solder a new wire on it or not...

Adam Barnes

Got all the new hydraulics working, coolant lines in place, coolant added, etc. Car started up fine considering it's been sitting a few weeks. Had a few drops of coolant leaking from the top hose, but I cranked down the hose clamp and it stopped.

Transmission now is locking me out entirely. It would let me into gears every once in a while but it makes metallic clanking or clunking when I do get in. Also, can't hear any difference when I put it into neutral and let out the clutch. Tried the trick where I started it in first to break it loose, but it just lunges the car forward a little bit. I've accidentally started it in gear before, so I know it will usually lunge forward quite a bit. This feels more like the clutch is bouncing in and out of engagement.

Here's a video clip of the slave working, or at least I think it's working. I bled it a few times and I have decent pedal pressure. I did notice it only has to travel about an inch before hitting the hydraulics. My old system would take around 6 inches.

http://youtu.be/s5AjGg-p0ik

Adam Barnes

I also noticed the oil wasn't traveling up my OMP lines very fast. Does it not move very fast at idle? I guess it could be the heavy oil I use as well. Had it at an idle for about 5 minutes or so and oil was about 1/2 way up the line. Perhaps I should start pre-mixing?

banzaitoyota

The "silver cylinder" is a ground capacitor. While you are doing heavy maintenance go ahead and reso all your grounds

Adam Barnes

Soldered new leads onto the ground capacitor. Oil/voltage gauges seem to be behaving now, or it could just be in my head.

Now that it's locking me out entirely I'm trying to figure out what is different on my new hydraulic system vs the old. Besides the master cylinder being entirely different inside. Slave cylinder bits look a little different, but basically the same when I test them with the digital caliper.

If my old master didn't belong on the car then it would make me think it could drive the fork further or not as far as it needs to operate? Over time would that cause the correct hydraulic system to not function with the clutch?

I have a photo of the difference in pistons on the second page of this post...

I hate to put the old hydraulics on just to drive it to a shop...perhaps a shim on the slave, or a swift kick?

Adam Barnes

Disconnected the slave cylinder to see what would happen and the transmission is in gear, or at least it feels like it is. Not sure if I'm supposed to have this much play in the fork either...

http://youtu.be/bS_Lhdpb8G0

I managed to get a new yoohoo belt on. Old one was trashed. Going to try and switch out to the old (leaking and weak) slave to see if I can get any function out of the transmission. It worked before, so if I could at least get it to a repair shop that would be spiffy.

Adam Barnes

No go. I'm having this thing hauled to a shop tomorrow. Something isn't right with the clutch. At this point I'd drive it into a volcano...if it would move.

banzaitoyota

Looks likee the fingers on the fork aren't on the pivot correctly

Adam Barnes

They've been on it correctly for about 49,000 miles best I can tell by my documentation in the glove box. I guess that's far enough on one clutch, but the first one was still good at 120,000...