83 gsl stock. yesterday while driving the needle dropped to zero and stayed. this a.m. started her up - everything back to normal for a few miles then the needle dropped to zero. then the wtf moments begin. 1. the needle begins to swing wildly 0-6500+ then reads what it should. 2. drops back to zero, then starts swinging again. 3. stopped at a red light put her in neutral to try pushing the gas to see what if set the e-brake and just touch the brake petal needle comes up about 500 rpm foot off brake needle goes back to zero repeat same 4-5 times. take off starts back swinging. parked took care of business started her up again normal maybe 15 sec. back to zero. put on right turn signal needle bounces with the arrow. seems like it's something electrical ,but i'm not much of a wrencher trying to learn as i go. all help greatly appreciated.

 

o.k. can anyone explain to me how the tach works and what are it's components? a simple drawing would help. thanks

 

step 10. always willing to apologize and when i'm wrong mean it. i am sorry for asking this q?. went thru many pages of the non-technical and archives when i should have gone to the faq first. anyway i'm a fool but i'm not an idiot, just not a mechanic either. need to go back to ghosting.

 

parts i quess are like baseball cards. j 109 ignitors for example. can buy at auto parts stores for $160- $200+. could get a used one for $98.00 ooor a new one from Turkey for $95.00. guy on ebay was selling 6 for $ 50.00 which he disavowed any knowledge of their being any good. many good deals several months ago, this time last year etc.got one for $30.00 + 5.00 shipping. soon i will find out if it's the trailing ignitor that's causing my tach. problems. i'm even pretty sure the trailing ignitor is the one closest to the alt. doowah ditty see rock city. heard that once on a long car trip.

 

if it flickers it is usually the igniter,, try swapping them around on the dizzy to see if the problem goes away

( then the issue is the igniter you shifted out )



but the other thing the tacho is ( at least on the earlier rx7s ) ,, is a volt indication for when the ignition is not running

it may well be going to volt mode if tt cant see the igniter pulse

,,however



the movement when you put on the indicator is screaming that you have an issue with dash earths,, check these first

 

vic-tor- E. took the leading ignitor off, cleaned greased and put on my $30.00 used one - rhona still ran. took the former leading ignitor and replaced the trailing ignitor(really not as easy for me to do as it sounds). tach is back idles smooth at around 850 rpm's. everything works again- except for the hatch struts. a small win but it's mine.

 

additional vic-tor-E's. two weeks ago i replaced my water pump, belts, and upper rad hose. almost all of my scabs have now fallen off.today a friend asked how do i get the window to go down some more? i say it don't work right that's why it stays up.could'nt get it up(that's what she said), but it did go completly down. now like the water pump i gotta fix it. broke down and popped the switches- disconnected the functioning drivers side and hooked it to the half *** functioning passenger side. i win again window up. now i just have to get a replacement switch. and the beat goes on.

 

I picked up some HEI modules (chevy) from the local parts house and never looked back. 16.99 at the time new with a lifetime warranty. Just mounted them on a plate and soldered some leads into the dizzy. Good to go.