1st Generation Specific 1979-1985 Discussion

Straight Exhaust On Gslse

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Old 02-25-2005, 07:58 PM
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the flowmaster is about the loudest thing in the world, anything else is better.



you want to have working 6 ports, wiring them open doesnt gain you any more top end, all it does is loose low end power, why do that?
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Old 02-26-2005, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 25 2005, 08:57 PM
the flowmaster is about the loudest thing in the world, anything else is better.



you want to have working 6 ports, wiring them open doesnt gain you any more top end, all it does is loose low end power, why do that?





I have 3" pipe back to flowmasters. I realy doubt that the heat will hurt a 2 chamber steel muffler. As for the acuators.....go straight pipe and you lose the back pressure piping. To much to have it custom made and you will NOT lose that much power on the bottom end. Also, when you no longer have the pressure to open them how do you figure that you don't gain on the top end? Once you go with a straight exhaust, like I said you will either lose the pipe to connect the hose to open the actuators or you will pay for a custom job. It just isn't cost effective to pay out any amount of money for a custom job that you can just use a couple of wire ties to do. As I said the effects on the power are not that great.
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Old 02-26-2005, 07:56 AM
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so could i have the back pressure line with just a straight exhaust? does it just involve having a hold drilled in the new pipe and welding the old line on? if so it doesnt seem like they would charge me much to do that.



also, what kind of top end gains are you talking about? this car is basically a dd so i dont drive in the top end all that much
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:06 AM
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As far as cost goes...like I said it just isn't that cost effective. You can go straight pipe not even have the two actuators open at all and yo uwould never know it. However, drive around like that for awhile then take 2 wire ties and tie the open....you will see a difference. It won't be anything major but there is a difference. It hurts nothing by wiring them open or just taking them out all together. If it is a daily driver then I doubt you will not notice if they never do open. That statement is more of a metaphore for those who seem to jump at every little thing. I am supprised that as long as you have been on this board and read the things that people have actually done to their cars that you haven't seen anything on this subject.

Kind of like the comment on another thread about the Kia sportage front diff. swap on another thread. Just because some haven't done it doesn't mean that it can't be done. There is plenty of info out there all one must do is to research it and try it. Hell, I had doubts about the 2nd gen direct fire realy working but said WTF, got nothing but time to lose so I did it and it made a heck of a difference. My car is more than just a daily driver so when I wired open the actuators I DID see a difference. It did not hurt my gas milage nor my performance in the least. Contrary to what some may think, it isn't that big of a deal.
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:15 AM
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thanks for the info, ill let you guys know how it turns out.



now whats involved in wiring the actuators open, or is there something already posted about it?
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Old 02-26-2005, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by brianhsval' date='Feb 26 2005, 05:41 AM
I have 3" pipe back to flowmasters. I realy doubt that the heat will hurt a 2 chamber steel muffler. As for the acuators.....go straight pipe and you lose the back pressure piping. To much to have it custom made and you will NOT lose that much power on the bottom end. Also, when you no longer have the pressure to open them how do you figure that you don't gain on the top end? Once you go with a straight exhaust, like I said you will either lose the pipe to connect the hose to open the actuators or you will pay for a custom job. It just isn't cost effective to pay out any amount of money for a custom job that you can just use a couple of wire ties to do. As I said the effects on the power are not that great.



you can run the actuators off of the air pump, it takes like 5 minutes to do.



is your engine ported? we run a 3" exhaust with the actuators removed in the race car and it makes ok top end power but theres no low end. we have to run stock ports due to the rules, but we do have a haltech, that helped the low end a lot, but its still not as fast as a stock working actuator car
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Old 02-26-2005, 03:11 PM
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Not as fast? How is that? The actuators have nothing to do with the cars top end. As for the tourque, well....that is a different story, but consider this: the actuators open at 3800 rpm, when I race I leave the line between 4k and 4500 rpm. When the clutch is ingauged and I leave the line don't you think that the actuators would be open at 4500 rpm? If that is the case, why keep them? During a race you wouldn't let the rpm's fall below 4k anyways, so what is the point? From a racing standpoint. As for the street, like I said, not that big of a difference. It comes down to a matter of opinion, you have yours and I have mine, just as most of those on this forum. I have gone both ways and speek from my experience on it. What I have said is from my own experiences from the street as well as the track. Do what you like, but if you are racing and letting the rpm;s go below 3800 then what is it you are racing? I generaly keep mine up and down shift around 5k at the slowest when not on the street.
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:11 PM
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This all you have to do to get the 6 ports to open up. Cheap and simple. I found all the parts needed at the local Ace hardware store in the plumbing section.





The copper tube is 1/8" line, with a compression fitting attaching it to the tee. The rubber line coming off of the actuator line will slip over the tube, it's very tight though.



I have done this on an S4 and a GSL-SE, works fine on both.



[attachment=28820:attachment]
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Old 02-26-2005, 10:47 PM
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There you have an alternative. Thank you! Much better than one saying one way is better and another saying it isn't.
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Old 02-27-2005, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by brianhsval' date='Feb 26 2005, 01:11 PM
Not as fast? How is that? The actuators have nothing to do with the cars top end. As for the tourque, well....that is a different story, but consider this: the actuators open at 3800 rpm, when I race I leave the line between 4k and 4500 rpm. When the clutch is ingauged and I leave the line don't you think that the actuators would be open at 4500 rpm? If that is the case, why keep them? During a race you wouldn't let the rpm's fall below 4k anyways, so what is the point? From a racing standpoint. As for the street, like I said, not that big of a difference. It comes down to a matter of opinion, you have yours and I have mine, just as most of those on this forum. I have gone both ways and speek from my experience on it. What I have said is from my own experiences from the street as well as the track. Do what you like, but if you are racing and letting the rpm;s go below 3800 then what is it you are racing? I generaly keep mine up and down shift around 5k at the slowest when not on the street.



yeah ive done both too, i like the actuators working on the street.



our race car (all the 6 port stuff removed) it down on torque compared to a working actuator car, up to about 5000rpms. and actually delaying the actuators opening does help a bit too, depending on your exhaust setup
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