zeroecco

Guys i did what ya told me to and kept the faith, praying i find a motor that is usable. Well i think i finally did! I found a donor car on craigslist and went out this last saturday to see if i would buy it. well I was NOT impressed with the condition of the car as you can see from the pictures. BUT the motor didn't have a leak or smoke, and there was no knocking from the apex seals. So ithought alright this motor should get me by until i head to japan after graduation. Well i get it home that saturday and pull the motor that saturday. Sunday i took off the mandrel bent 2 inch exhaust and OBX pop can muffler. After all that was done i pulled the exhaust manifold and guess what i found? Only ONE bolt on the manifold was tight, another two from the manifold where just screwed on, and the fourth was completely gone! So I look in the exhaust ports to see the damage and I become a little scared at the white carbon biuld up on the ports. But the apex seals were fine, I mean i got my finger in there and felt them and found almost no lip to them at all! And I saw that the rotor tips had been race clearenced for HIGH revving. I was like sweet this motor had been rebiult. Although i wasn't sure of it because i am still somewhat new at this whole motor thing. So i pull the trans mission and guess what i found?? A lightened flywheel, thats got to confirm it. This motor had to have been rebiult, definetly not by the punk a** kid that i bought from but the person before him. boys and girls I think my 78 will live.. OH i got the driving donor car for 700.00. And does anyone know what the Yellow wire with the black stripe is for on the chassis wiring harness? I know the black wire with the white stripe goes to the positive terminals on the dizzy and coils, and the yellow wire with the green stripe goes to the neg. coil terminals, but i do not know where the yellow with the black stripe goes!!!

z-beater

OH YEAH

zeroecco

I got another question. How do i wire in a electric fan? Anyone know?

BeaterRX7

I bought a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic fan that came with a thermostat built in. I wired a fused hot, a ground, and a switched on so it can run whenever the key is on and it senses enough heat. If you're running a generic fan you can either wire it up so it runs whenever the fan is on, you can run it to a switch so you can turn it on and off (better not forget or you'll buy another motor), or you can get a fan switch and a relay.



I have a part number written down for a Honda fan switch that works, but I'll have to dig it out. IIRC, you wire the power side of the relay to a constantly hot fused source and ground normanlly, wire the positive of the control side to a switched hot, and ground the control side through the fan switch.

zeroecco

Another question i haven't been able to solve in reading past forum articles. I cut the harness that is attached to the car so i could remove all the extra wiring that is no longer used. But I need some help. The B/W wire in the chassis harness is the 12v source for the ignition right? What is the Y/B (yellow/black) wire for? And How would you wire the harness most concervativelly? I think I did a BIG NO NO....

zeroecco

ok next question, i want to lower the car after everything is running. I thought racingbeat springs,kosei k1 racing rims(powdered black to match the trim), low pro tires, and a mazdatrix camber kit to add the neg. camber i need to prevent rub. Good idea or bad? And yes i remember what i said about being poor but i got a great bonus this quarter from work so...

z-beater

I have heard that generic 5" coils with desired spring rate work good. Tokico all the way around with coil-overs up front.



That is what I plan

zeroecco

I never got a reply on the harness question so i think i am going to put DLDFIS in the car instead of the old ign. setup. What i want to do is take to a/c bracket mod it to fit the three coils AND J109's. I don't think however that i am going to paint this motor, at this point i need to have my car back and another 30 hours of prep and paint aren't in order this time. BUT The tranny will get the paint job, the d*** thing is alwaays dirty so I will do that to make sure it is somewhat nice to look at. How loud do you think the exhaust is goint to be with the racing header from racingbeat, 2 inch mandrel all the way back, and a pop can exhaust? and do you think i will get afterburn from the straight setup. AND yes i have yet another question, how much electric stuff can i take off the stock 79 nikki? The afterburn valve is gone, the rats nest is gone along with all the wiring associated with it except a ground that goes to a thing ( not sure what it is but i will send a pic of the carb so everyone can see tonight) thanks guys(and possibly gals, not sure how many of the ladies frequent this forum)

Racer X

Good luck.It sounds like she will scream.

BeaterRX7

Really loud. I have a road race header running through dual 2 1/4" pipes to a straight-thru Dynomax Super Turbo dual-inlet/dual outlet muffler and two Supertrapp tips on the end. With all the plates on it's too loud for the street (but runs nice on the autocross course). With only four plates on it runs good, but is still too loud for anything but driving to and from the autocross. With three plates on it's quieter, but misfires over 7000 rpm. A lot of the noise comes straight off the pipes - they ping while the motor's running. But without a decent muffler you will get pulled over. The first time I drove mine with the new exhaust (didn't have the Supertrapps yet) I got pulled over 2 miles from my house. I still let off the gas when I see a police car just to keep the noise down a bit.