Propane RX-7
02-22-2006, 08:31 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,788
There was long discussions about this a couple years ago at ausrotary.com regarding the use of LPG. (Propane)
If you do a seaerch in the tech talk forum for LPG, you'll find heaps of threads. There are a few guys on there who already have the conversion done.
http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/vi...9&highlight=lpg
If you do a seaerch in the tech talk forum for LPG, you'll find heaps of threads. There are a few guys on there who already have the conversion done.
http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/vi...9&highlight=lpg
03-08-2006, 10:41 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 211
I just found out the dimensions on my gas tank, and the dimensions are 11" height, 22" wide (front of car to back), and 32" long (left side of car to right). would I be able to use 2 13"x13"x32 LPG tanks, even though it'll be 4" wider (front of car to back), but it'll allow me to hold over 30 gallons, which is over twice as much as the stock gasoline tank that was in it, meaning I'll be able to go twice as far on one fill. I was also looking at having 2 fuel gauges, 1 for each tank. I'd use up one, then go onto the other, so I'd know how far I'd be able to travel before I needed to find a gas station that had the ability to fill propane.
03-15-2006, 10:36 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 211
i just got the carburetor, cheater hoses, a couple other things and the expansion chamber today. i just need to put them on sometime next week, and hook up a propane tank to it, since it looks like i might be able to just hook a regular propane tank straight to the hose.
anyone know of any places where we can buy LPG propane tanks???? I'm in dire need of help!!!
04-25-2006, 06:03 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,114
Most of the propane tanks that you can buy at Lowes etc are non re-useable. So you will need a tank that can be removed. Not too difficult if you are already designing a propane system already.
I would go this way just to ensure that you have a safe system.
I would go this way just to ensure that you have a safe system.
08-07-2006, 12:12 PM
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 211
Originally Posted by Kathy Atkins' post='816029' date='Apr 25 2006, 03:11 PM
Try Lowes or Home depot.. One of our employees use to run propane in his truck and that was awsome!
Would you be able to ask him where he got the tanks? That's the major thing I'm missing right now. I've got the adapter almost finished. After that, I need to figure out how I'd be able to cut out part of the air filter section in my hood, since my propane carburetor is like 4" taller than the OEM carb.
05-06-2008, 09:26 AM
#18
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: uranus WA australia
Posts: 59
bump
hi ya
how did ya go ?
here is mine -
hi ya
how did ya go ?
here is mine -
http://www.youtube.com/v/FP27scNOKtQ&hl=en
closed loop carb set up good for 17 -20 L LPG per 100Km driving hard
( about half the cost per 100 km of a mild boosted turbo rotor on 98 octane petrol )
its pretty much an out of box closed loop impco 225 kit for a 4.0 to 5.0 ford
or 3.8 to 5.0 holden commodore ( chev ) up to 2006
( emission laws suit Australia )
the only power i am losing is down low from my 4 way idle single throttle TB set up
( and mild port )
just like an over-large weber, i have to feed throttle under 3000 rpm
and i have some small losses in idle quality ( still 16 inch Hg vac at 1000 rpm )
after that it will match any petrol rx7 with aftermarket EFI for speed it can rev and smoothness up to 9000 rpm
i drive everyday with 3.9 gears and 10 psi and that will mix it with 6.0 307 Kw commodores
( aussie chevs )
this motor has inadvertently run 18 psi a few times and lived
providently due to plenty of reserve in my ignition timing
( its a modded curve 12aT dizzy as direct fire , not programmable ignition timing )
i am running a curve that spans 8 to 22 BTDC mech timing with the trailing pickup used for its vac pot ( greater vac advance stroke )
( i have no trailing ignition whatso ever )
for idle, i have a switched ABSv ( air bypass solenoid valve )
used to lean things down at idle for the rotor
( the convertor will be a little bemused at the rotary vacuums and tend to err rich at idle )
the switch is open ( ABSv shut ) to help cold cranking draw mixture to motor
( about 6 - 8 secs when cold in morning )
- i am lacking the cold shot solenoid on the convertor that other cars will used to cheat the cold start
ATM the switch is manually controlled
( i can close the bypass for cold start and for hot operation as when the gas vapour pressure is high/ density low = leaner when hot )
but soon i will have it hooked up with some dead band switching from revs around 2000 rpm
and also perhaps from the radiator or water pump housing thermo switch
to auto flip over at high water temps
all very basic stuff, all simpler and more effective than most imagine
closed loop carb set up good for 17 -20 L LPG per 100Km driving hard
( about half the cost per 100 km of a mild boosted turbo rotor on 98 octane petrol )
its pretty much an out of box closed loop impco 225 kit for a 4.0 to 5.0 ford
or 3.8 to 5.0 holden commodore ( chev ) up to 2006
( emission laws suit Australia )
the only power i am losing is down low from my 4 way idle single throttle TB set up
( and mild port )
just like an over-large weber, i have to feed throttle under 3000 rpm
and i have some small losses in idle quality ( still 16 inch Hg vac at 1000 rpm )
after that it will match any petrol rx7 with aftermarket EFI for speed it can rev and smoothness up to 9000 rpm
i drive everyday with 3.9 gears and 10 psi and that will mix it with 6.0 307 Kw commodores
( aussie chevs )
this motor has inadvertently run 18 psi a few times and lived
providently due to plenty of reserve in my ignition timing
( its a modded curve 12aT dizzy as direct fire , not programmable ignition timing )
i am running a curve that spans 8 to 22 BTDC mech timing with the trailing pickup used for its vac pot ( greater vac advance stroke )
( i have no trailing ignition whatso ever )
for idle, i have a switched ABSv ( air bypass solenoid valve )
used to lean things down at idle for the rotor
( the convertor will be a little bemused at the rotary vacuums and tend to err rich at idle )
the switch is open ( ABSv shut ) to help cold cranking draw mixture to motor
( about 6 - 8 secs when cold in morning )
- i am lacking the cold shot solenoid on the convertor that other cars will used to cheat the cold start
ATM the switch is manually controlled
( i can close the bypass for cold start and for hot operation as when the gas vapour pressure is high/ density low = leaner when hot )
but soon i will have it hooked up with some dead band switching from revs around 2000 rpm
and also perhaps from the radiator or water pump housing thermo switch
to auto flip over at high water temps
all very basic stuff, all simpler and more effective than most imagine
