[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jul 7 2005, 10:21 PM']What did you do for the rear end?


[/quote]



I'm going to bring the axles up there as well. I think redrilling will be fine.

Well today I did something I should have done along time ago: I found the original Cosmo crank pulley and transferred the timing marks to the set of pullies I've been using. Basically, the accessory pulleys that were on my 12a.



At any rate, I'm going to get the thing to start and RUN before I make the switch to the RB dual sheave pulley system. I picked up a v-groove water pump pulley from mazdaspeed7 so I have everything but the belt to switch over.



Today I put my suspension back on the car. I got the assemblies back from the machine shop with the part that adapts the FC 5lugs to my spindles. The shop is going to market these so as soon as I talk to him again I'll plug his site https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png. He is in the process of fabricating backing plates to fit the stock FC rotor size (as anything bigger would probably be overkill seeing as how 4 piston calipers are already going to make the car stop on a dime) and I should be getting them sometime in the next week or so. Until then the car remains unmovable. He is also investigating a way for me to put disk brakes and convert to 5lug for the rear wheels as well without having to drop my entire rear-end assembly for a GSL-SE rear end. I already swapped in the SE LSD and I really don't want to have to swap the entire rear end at this point.



Here are some pics of how it looked for a week and how it looks now. After I figure out what to do with the rear I'm going to order a nice set of wheels and tires.



The battery was dead because I'm an idiot and left the ignition turned on for basically an entire week, so I can't test out the new timing settings until tomorrow. It will either blow up or purr like a kitten. I'm hoping for the latter https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png..



[attachment=32667:attachment]



[attachment=32668:attachment]



[attachment=32669:attachment]



[attachment=32670:attachment]



Just as a side note, this is NOT a spacer. It mimics the form of the FC spindle. There is no change in wheelspacing at all.

hope it turns out great, keep up the good work https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

A short vid of it running https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png.

GOD DAMN! Is that on stock ports? It sounds really mean, I would hate to sit next to that at a stop light, or at the track.



Good job man!

[quote name='rowtareh' date='Aug 8 2005, 08:01 PM']GOD DAMN! Is that on stock ports? It sounds really mean, I would hate to sit next to that at a stop light, or at the track.



Good job man!


[/quote]



Yeah that's stock ports, it's not tuned or anything because I still have an oil problem. If you think that sounds beastly, check out the vid I posted in the engine section: Teh Oil Problems [MOV].



My friends said the whole sleeper effect will be gone when people hear the motor, LOL.

[quote name='Dysfnctnl85' date='Aug 8 2005, 09:36 PM']Yeah that's stock ports, it's not tuned or anything because I still have an oil problem. If you think that sounds beastly, check out the vid I posted in the engine section: Teh Oil Problems [MOV].



My friends said the whole sleeper effect will be gone when people hear the motor, LOL.


[/quote]



Nah, if somebody asks when they pull up next to you, say one of your ignitor coils have gone bad. Then spank them!



Whoa, that video would scare the **** out of me. I am guessing that is not normal.

Any thing new happened yet? No update in 3 months!!

wtf? why are you running it with no upper intake?

Where've you been Mike, I was trying to figure out the source of the oil problem, and that was forever ago https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png. The car runs now but will only hold 20psi of fuel pressure after installing my new FPR and getting a new secondary rail. I have to rest my foot on the throttle to keep it running or it will die.

It's been forever and a day since an update, but I haven't been idle all this time...After the purchase of an FD and then finally meeting the girl of my dreams I'm coming very close to a drivable Cosmo FB.



I bought a disc brake rear end from mazdaspeed7 and said girl helped me complete the swap in, no lie, about 35 mins. I triple checked the bolts and everything; seriously nothing has gone this easy on the car.



Attachment 21173



I swapped in the SE pumpkin I already had installed and then bolted in the new rear.



I also finished the hubs on the front but have yet to put on the brakes. I have the brake pads I need I just need to put them in the calipers and bolt 'em up.



Attachment 21174



The car runs on its own just fine, but I'm still having some oil issues. I haven't let it run for more than a couple minutes at a time though. The plan for this weekend is to let it run and see how much oil I burn. I haven't premixed yet though, so should I go ahead and do that before I let it run for awhile?



I need to find a source for axles so that I can go ahead and get 5-lug hubs for the rear (to match the front, obviously). Does anyone have any recommendations?



So what's (currently) left to do?

-Brake lines front and rear

-Discs all around

-Axles

-Driveshaft

-Rollers (I'm going to test fit the ones off my FD to see how they fit and go from there)

I filled her up with oil and put some premix in the tank to see how long she could run.



At first fire, black smoke appeared, followed by the white smoke I've been seeing. I took some video of it but haven't gotten a chance to encode it, hopefully later this week. Oil is coming out from behind my exhaust manifold and there is an exhaust leak between the turbo and the manifold. What could explain the oil coming out of the exhaust ports without even being burned?



I know that there is a return for the stock sequential turbos at the back of the motor, near the oil pan, but I've already blocked that off.



I forwarded this same information to a local engine builder in hopes that he can shed some light on it. It might even be that the oil seals are bad and that they need to be replaced, in which case I will tow the car up there as soon as it's able to roll.



What do you guys think? I don't know enough about the engine to know what's wrong https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png.

Are you positive that the oil is coming directly from the exhaust ports? It is possible that the oil could be coming from the turbo via bad seals abd backing up into the exhaust ports. A too small oil return from the turbo to the motor will also cause this type of problem. You might want to try removeing the turbo completely, install some other type of exhaust manifold with a short down pipe and see if the problem persists. As for the exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold, did you use a metal gasket between the manifold and turbo? Some manifolds require the gasket, but some are machined for use with no gasket. Check the mounting flange for the turbo, and if it is machined, try assembly without the gasket. Hope this info helps.

Well, to propagate the laughing stock that is my project (because everying involved has been new to me, haha), let me clarify that I've made the exhaust manifold and used a flange water-cut from the metal gasket that shipped from my turbo. There are no recesses in the manifold flange, nor are there any on the turbo exhaust side itself, so that pretty much explains the exhaust leak, I believe. It was recommended that I get both flanges of the exhaust manifold milled flat, but I kind of assumed that metal gaskets would make up for these differences, is that wrong?



A few months ago I ran the motor without the turbo for a few seconds to observe and document (to NP) the white smoke, minus the turbo. This, in retrospect, could just be gunk that's been sitting in the motor as I didn't run it for very long at all...if you can imagine how loud a rotary is with just a manifold attached to the engine.



The turbo drains using a -10 AN line, but it's not a very sharp drop to the oil pan, more like a graduated, angle. Could this be part of the problem? I'll try and find some pictures just to see, but I really have no concept of how fast the oil is coming out of the turbo and going into the pan. The feed is very small (-4 AN IIRC).



If I had more experience I imagine I would have a better method for finding the solution to this problem, but I appreciate any/all input, because honestly it's probably something very simple I overlooked.



I hope I gave you enough information, let me know if there's something else that would help you help me haha.

Vid should be up tonight!

I suggest you bite the bullet and have those flanges machined flat. Depending on the amount of warpage/uneven surface, a thin metal gasket providing a good seal is iffy at best. I also suggest that you go to a -12 turbo drain. I had a -10 on my setup which is similar to yours and had drainage problems and a lot of smoke in the exhaust. Changing to a -12 drain line helped the problem considerably. The -4 feed line is about right, and should not require a restrictor in the feed line.

Alright guys, a day late, but I think you can see pretty much exactly what I'm talking about. You can see the oil fairly clearly as it comes from behind the exhaust manifold.



Let me know what you think!



Engine Vid [MOV]

I see your peril. First take the exhaust manifold off and get it faced. If it is steel it can be done on a surfacing machine at an engine reconditioners (piston engine place) and should not be very expensive. If you have made it from stainless steel take it to a engineering shop with a mill it should only take them about 2- 3 hours ( takes me about 45 min per face inc set up) Find out there hourly rate or get a quote knowing how long it should take will let you know if you are getting a good deal or not.

Next it is possible , yet highly unlikely that oil has accumulated in the chamber or seeped past the control rings . Which leaves worn control rings or damaged o rings. O rrings can be damaged with exposure to solvents or petrol ( they swell up and sometimes split ) . A compresson test or leak down would probably be inconclusive as oil in chamber would help seal giving a false reading. It may also be possible for the turbo to have a damaged or worn oil seal and oil drains back into engine , also a long shot .

When you remove manifold for facing it may be more obvice what is to blame .

First of all, thanks for the input. Second, the turbo is brand-new. The motor is an import of course, haha. Is it possible for the oil control rings to be so bad that oil is just *flowing* out of the exhaust like that?

Yes it is possible.

Have your manifold faced. Look for obvious sources of where oil is coming from. If its coming from in the engine chances are the oil seals are to blame. Assuming oil didnt find its way into inlet manifolds during shipping (unlikely as it should clear reasonable quickly but as a long shot should be checked as its easier than pulling down the block).

Failing this , time to look at the block. Warranty? No , ok sounds like you are reasonably ok with tools , time to pull the block down and reco. If you havent done one before its time to learn.

Well, today I took off the oil return line from the turbo and started the car up. I wanted to confirm/deny that the oil return was backing up, causing the oil to come out from behind the manifold itself.



I noticed absolutely no difference!



To me, this confirms that the oil seals are shot and need to be repaired. The million dollar question (quit literally, actually), is how much I should do.



While it's open, why not do a full rebuild with 2mm seals and swap out the exhaust sleeves for something larger?



Opinions?

My advice would be to have the rotors slotted for 3mm apex seals . (have this done by a business that does them all the time not a first timer should cost around $60 the engine will not need rebalancing) Use 12a turbo corner seal with the plastic inserts. Use fd corner seal springs if it is early cosmo engine still using wire springs. Replace oil control rings, springs , and orings .Check oil pumpreplace if necessary. Renew bearings ( unless you have a press have a shop press them for you. After pressed make sure they slide over shaft without galling as sometimes they can compress if not correctly pressed) Make sure you get the correct gasket set or waterseal set as older sets orings are different. If the rotor housings are good use an easy out or have a shop remove the pins that hold the exhaust sleves in . Find some expired fd housings remove there sleeves and use them.

If you are going to port the engine and havent done it before be extremely careful or have a good rotary shop do it . Dont go to radical the car wont be able to put the power to the ground. ( even std ports should get you 300+ rwhp @ 1 kg ) . Replace side seals and springs and gap correctly ( do this before assembly and lay it all out on aboard marked front rotor rear A B C etc . When pulling engine apart use a sharp scribe to mark which rotor Front / rear and mark each side A B C so all the bits go back in the right place.

3mm apex seals are very forgiving when tuning or running high boost. Best to do a complete rebuild , you put so much time and effort into projet , dont cut a few corners now you may regret latter , and who wants to keep pulling down the engine , driving it is way more fun.

FYI I'm getting the motor worked on.



I'm expecting a complete labor quote soon. So far I'm going with RA 3mm seals and new oil seals as well. When they take the motor apart they're going to put it under a magnifying glass and let me know what else it might need.



I'm also going to swap out the exhaust ports for TII/FD ports.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR

Any updates???

Well I undid about 2 years of work in 1.5 hours on Saturday, haha. I took everything apart for the most part, leaving only the oil cooler. I dropped the motor off Saturday night and I'm told he will take it apart this week and take a look at it.



I was originally going to get Rick Engman to lap the housings for 3mm seals, but I have since decided to stay with 2mm OEM seals. I'm not even sure that I will need apex seals, but oil seals for sure. This guy has a pretty good reputation around this area and races an SA in SCCA.



Once I hear back from him I'll post up.



Oh! I also dropped off two trashed FD housings so I can get the exhaust sleeves https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png.



500whp here I come...

Right on, well make sure to get some videos for us.



Here in the NW the turbo FB scene is starting to pick up. I think that we are going to get some videos up to show everyone what we have.

I will definitely have a video of the project...so when this thing actually comes to life, I'll have some proof of my blood, sweat, and tears for all to see...haha.



Thanks for the interest and I'd love to see other turbo FBs in action!

Good thing you went the with OEM 2mm seals, they work perfectly fine.



I have been following this for a while, and I want one of my own to do already!!

Just heard back from my builder...



Good news: The motor is in excellent shape.

Bad news: the oil problem is not coming from the motor.



WTF? I took the turbo off and still experienced white smoke, but this must just be gunk that needed to burn off from inside the motor, or it is conceivable that there was oil left in the manifold from the turbo or something.



At any rate, I'm going to call cheapturbo (nka Phoenix Turbo) and see what I can check on the turbo. It's never been run besides just turning the car on...is it possible to blow the oil seals on a new (or freshly rebuilt I guess) turbo upon firing up the engine?



::scratches head::

Well that is some good news. Where did you pick up the turbo from? Cheapturbos?



Z

Yes. Cheapturbo nka PhoenixTurbo.

I know how you feel about the smoking problem, I think I got mine but won't be 100% till I get mine back together. never ends does it........

[attachment=37735:attachment]

Truer words haven't been spoken. Cheapturbo has yet to return my calls, so I'm going to a local turbo shop to see if they can tell if there's anything wrong with it.

Is the back of the turbine wheel covered in oil ?

Affirmative. When I took the DP off there was lots of oil sitting in the vband flange.

Warranty?

I can't get ahold of Cheapturbo, they won't return my calls!



Is it possible to blow the seals just by starting the car? I mean that's all it has done is idle...

Not likely , maybe rear oil seal was damaged during assembly or completely left out . Probably best to have them inspect it .

I left another message with them today, if I don't hear anything tomorrow morning I'm calling again.

I've finally gotten to the brakes!



The bad news is, I don't think the brakes I got (I picked them up off an FC sitting a junkyard) had all the parts necessary, or maybe they got lost somehow, but at any rate, the pads don't appear to be positioned correctly judging from these photos:



https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/c6f34207.jpg



https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/c02ed9ef.jpg



I only had 2 v-clips, but the FSM shows that there are supposed to be 2 on each caliper. The problem I'm having, as you can see, is that the pads don't stay apart! I have the old rotors that I snagged with the calipers, and man was it a bitch to get a caliper on there. Not only that, but at this point it would most certainly drag as the wheel rotated.



My engine is back!



https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...nctnl85/16.jpg



https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...nctnl85/14.jpg



It has new apex seals and springs and all the accompanying parts. It also has new exhaust sleeves:



https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...5/04f9c65b.jpg



It's pretty easy to see the difference in size between the Cosmo and FD sleeves.



So right now this is what I have:



https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...nctnl85/24.jpg



But this will change shortly. Just wanted to post an update and see if anyone knew anything about brakes!