Just bought an oil temperature gauge for my car, and I am looking at where to put the temp sender. So far, my reasearch has found a couple of options:



1. Oil Drain Plug: Seems cheesy, don't want to go there.

2. Replace Sub-zero temp sender: I kinda like this idea, since I don't have the sub zero system anymore.

3. T in where the oil pressure sensor is. Not sure about flow to this area.



So, I would like to open a debate. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each location? What kind of temps do you see at the location your sender is? Are there any other locations I should be thinking about?



I don't really want to get one of the pedistal mounts, since it will be more than my sensor and sender combined.



Thanks!

That's what I did, works well. Try to find a BSP threaded fitting if you can, I had to use an NPT threaded fitting and it works but not as neat as I'd like.

Mine is in line with the filter going into the engine.

One more thing on my to do list. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Do you know the threads on the hole? I will do the usual take-fitting-to-store-and-see-what-fits, but if you know off hand, that would help.



Thanks for the replies.

If I'm not greatly mistaken it is a 1/8" BSP.

Yeah, it's 1/8" 28 threads per inch BSP.



Fed, I don't see your point in worrying about spending $60 or so on an adaptor from Racing Beat for a $15 guage. That just doesn't make sense to me. Heck, I got a temp guage for free but still purchased the adaptor kit from Racing Beat. Different priorities I guess.

i tapped the banjo bolt on the oil line and put it there

I just don't see the point in spending money on something if I don't have to. The $50 that I don't spend on the pedistal = $50 closer to a megasquirt, or $50 closer to new suspension bushings, etc. I'm not "financially independant" yet, and even if I where, given the choice between expensive and cheap for the same function, I'll take cheap (as long as the weight penalty is acceptable) every time.

In that case, just install the temp sender in the oil pan. It'll show the oil at its hottest, but at least you'll be that much closer to a MegaSquirt. If given the choice, it's what I'd do in your situation. You can always get an adapter later. Besides, the MegaSquirt only measures water and air temperature.



By the way, do you know about the 47k ohm bias resistor needed at R4 if using the stock Mazda air temp thermistor?

Thanks for the tip on the resistor. I'm still debating final specs of my install, and developing a bench calibration.



We are putting a MS in the racecar this season, and based on how that goes I am going to drop one in my 4-port rebuild next year. I may even go squirt&spark. One of my local guys already has this setup in his SA.



Before any of that happens, I have a few single turbo FD's with PowerFC's that need my attention. Never stop learning, right?



I got the oil temp gauge because I have made a lot of changes to my cooling system, and I don't belive I am getting enough heat into the engine, so I want to be sure. If I do go oil pan, I have the Mazda Comp numbers to go by, and if i t-in on the pressure gauge, I have the experience here, and the proximity to the filter to make judgements.



Regardless, I am going to do the dissassembly tomorrow before the game and see if i can find the parts to t-in this week. The season is getting close, and I still need paint!

The MS info I posted in this thread might be usefull to you. http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=389572

if you add a T, can a oil pressure be read off there?

What do you, follow me around?!?!



Think aboot it... Since the column of oil in the T would be standing still, it would have to equal the pressure in the line.



I always hated Fluids.

I'm an electrical engineer. Shouldn't you be working and not posting?



The entire oil system is at the same pressure right? Hrm...

Then I will put it to you in terms you can understand..



NO, the entire oil system is not at the same pressure!!!!!!



Think of pressure as voltage. Coming out of the pump (battery) the pressure (voltage) is at its highest. Every time it goes through a passage (resistance), the pressure (voltage) drops. You can think of small sections of pipe just like small sections of wire, the resistance is small enough to be ignored.



At the same time, in order for there to be flow, there has to be a pressure difference, so the pressure at the start and end of say the oil cooler lines will be different.



Besides, I don't "work" anymore. I do just enough to not get fired, and spend the evening looking for new jobs.

Just to cap this thread off...



I did what I should have done from the begining, and consulted the FSM.



Basically, the area where the pressure sender mounts is equivalent in terms of pressure, temperature, and flow to the filter pedistal, so it is a fine place to mount.



My gauge showed up. In the end it probably cost me nearly as much as buying a new one, but live and learn. At least it's in proper metric units and not this weird farenheit BS.