1st Generation Specific 1979-1985 Discussion

Oil Problem

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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:36 PM
  #11  
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Gas in oil = lowering compression. Air/fuel mix blows by the side/corner seal and mixes with the oil in the rotor.
Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:37 PM
  #12  
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the 84 GSL-SE i had was going near 300K and still runnin strong with no rebuilds, but had low compression on the rear rotor, it had a few little problems but was still fun.. i'd say probably a rebuild is in your future
Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:53 PM
  #13  
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well thats not sounding so good, if i got an engine lift how hard would it be to rebuild it myself? id probably get it streetported so id have to send the housings off but other than that how hard would it be? would i have to have many tools?
Old Mar 1, 2005 | 11:35 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Shane.Trammell' date='Mar 1 2005, 11:53 PM
well thats not sounding so good, if i got an engine lift how hard would it be to rebuild it myself? id probably get it streetported so id have to send the housings off but other than that how hard would it be? would i have to have many tools?





Wouldnt send the housings you'd send the plates. I'd get a junk engine to rip apart first and labeling everything is a must. Dont mess up and forget what apex seal came from what side of what rotor you gotta make sure take care of what you have if ya plan on reusing anything.
Old Mar 3, 2005 | 02:14 PM
  #15  
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with this oil problem would it be better to start premixing or should i not worry about the oil being so thin?
Old Mar 3, 2005 | 02:25 PM
  #16  
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IF your OMP is working there is no sense in premixing. It will make it harder to start and add no benifit. I thought that about my SE so I started premixing...however the OMP was working fine. End result ran like chit. Lean it out as much as possible.
Old Mar 3, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by brianhsval' date='Mar 3 2005, 02:25 PM
IF your OMP is working there is no sense in premixing. It will make it harder to start and add no benifit. I thought that about my SE so I started premixing...however the OMP was working fine. End result ran like chit. Lean it out as much as possible.



ok thanks a lot!



hopefully this will be the last question ill ask you guys on this subject but how long is it ok to run between oil changes when the oil gets as thin as gas and black within a week or two of changes? should i start running a thick synthetic to try to increase the lubrication and reduce the blowby? sorry that turned into two questions
Old Mar 3, 2005 | 03:08 PM
  #18  
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Isn't there some issue about a lot of extra carbon buildup with synthetics? I've heard it's true, I've heard it's a myth...
Old Mar 3, 2005 | 03:12 PM
  #19  
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there are differing opinions on synthetic in rotary. the arguement against it is that it doesnt burn off as well as natural oil and gets gummed up in the apex seals and stuff. royal purples website says they have been running their synthetic in their rotary race car for years without a problem directly related to the oil use. royal purple statements: http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0
Old Mar 3, 2005 | 03:14 PM
  #20  
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Yeah, I read on the "myth" side of the field that Mazda had a falling out with their oil company so switched to organic to spite them.



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