Nos...?
#1
:D
My Question is simple. i want to use NOS on my car, but this is my first time doing it, i need to know what system works better for me and how difficult it is to install....i want to increase power without killing my engine.
i have a 12A racing beat intake and a holley carb,,also, the engine is completly stock exepct for some bolt performance headers, intake, carb.
thanks.......
P.S. If it ain't a ROTOR it ain't a MOTOR.......!
My Question is simple. i want to use NOS on my car, but this is my first time doing it, i need to know what system works better for me and how difficult it is to install....i want to increase power without killing my engine.
i have a 12A racing beat intake and a holley carb,,also, the engine is completly stock exepct for some bolt performance headers, intake, carb.
thanks.......
P.S. If it ain't a ROTOR it ain't a MOTOR.......!
#2
Ahh nitrous oxide.. one of my best mods in a rotary.. there are plenty of kits to choose from. I would advice for you to do as much research as possible. Like wet vs dry, foggers vs plates, cheater selonoids vs pro shot, ignition timing and spark plug heat range is first and fore-most. you don't want to run centrifugal timing advance when your shooting your engine. you need a distributor with lock timing...
#3
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' date='Jan 11 2004, 07:43 PM
Ahh nitrous oxide.. one of my best mods in a rotary.. there are plenty of kits to choose from. I would advice for you to do as much research as possible. Like wet vs dry, foggers vs plates, cheater selonoids vs pro shot, ignition timing and spark plug heat range is first and fore-most. you don't want to run centrifugal timing advance when your shooting your engine. you need a distributor with lock timing...
#4
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' date='Jan 11 2004, 03:43 PM
Ahh nitrous oxide.. one of my best mods in a rotary.. there are plenty of kits to choose from. I would advice for you to do as much research as possible. Like wet vs dry, foggers vs plates, cheater selonoids vs pro shot, ignition timing and spark plug heat range is first and fore-most. you don't want to run centrifugal timing advance when your shooting your engine. you need a distributor with lock timing...
#5
Originally Posted by Racer X' date='Jan 12 2004, 05:04 AM
With a 12a doesn't the NOS setup get limited to a plate system Judge?Also check your PM.
The intake manifold could be fitted with a 4 fogger 1 stage kit or a 2 fogger 1 stage kit, or a 4 fogger 2 stage kit.
#6
Wow this reminds me that we need a nitrous oxide tuning section.
Nitrous oxide gets a nasty rep sometimes and there is so much misunderstanding around it. Hollywood does not help a bit either.
Dry Shot:
This is typically baby shots (50HP) that are relatively safe for stock. The existing (stock) fuel delivery system is used to add the necessary fuel. The nitrous is plumbed dry, no extra gasoline.
Wet Shot:
This can safely add more HP or bigger shots as the system is plumbed to add extra fuel, via either a fuel solenoid or seperate fuel pump and pressure regulator.
Timing:
I can't remember the exact amounts but you have to retard your timing a certain amount of degrees for a certain size shot of NO2 and fuel mix. This prevents detonation. Different tuners say different amounts of retard. Some tune real conservatively some tune more extreme. The less retard you can get away with the more power you will get from a shot.
Spark plugs:
You want to run a cooler plug to prevent detonation.
Stage shots:
Multiple stage shots usually have a smaller shot first followed by the big one! Like a 50 HP shot at WOT and a 100-150 shot on demand.
Nitrous oxide gets a nasty rep sometimes and there is so much misunderstanding around it. Hollywood does not help a bit either.
Dry Shot:
This is typically baby shots (50HP) that are relatively safe for stock. The existing (stock) fuel delivery system is used to add the necessary fuel. The nitrous is plumbed dry, no extra gasoline.
Wet Shot:
This can safely add more HP or bigger shots as the system is plumbed to add extra fuel, via either a fuel solenoid or seperate fuel pump and pressure regulator.
Timing:
I can't remember the exact amounts but you have to retard your timing a certain amount of degrees for a certain size shot of NO2 and fuel mix. This prevents detonation. Different tuners say different amounts of retard. Some tune real conservatively some tune more extreme. The less retard you can get away with the more power you will get from a shot.
Spark plugs:
You want to run a cooler plug to prevent detonation.
Stage shots:
Multiple stage shots usually have a smaller shot first followed by the big one! Like a 50 HP shot at WOT and a 100-150 shot on demand.
#9
Dry shots are easier but most definitely not safer, they are ok for newer fuel injected vehicles with plenty of injector duty cycle to spare and a small shot of nitrous but nothing else. Keeping your motor in one piece is best done with a wet shot.
J
J