hey, well to start with i'v owned the rx7's and this will make the forth. i haven't had one for a few years and i'v got the bug again. i just picked up an 85 GSL-SE with a spair 6 port 13b. my plains are to strip it of every thing it dosen't need to run. in order to do that i'v got a question or two about what the non turbo can take boost wise and if it can't handle 10 or less pounds i have plans to carb it an put a bottle on it. "so the inside of the hole car is forsale if anyone needs parts". this will be a drag car only so i'm not worried about meeting any kind of emissions laws or crap like that. i even want to run a junk yard CRX radiator to lose some wight in the front. just bare bone's on the car. thank you guy for your time an 2 cents

--will

first thing... do NOT use a CRX radiatior. if anything, upgrade to a thicker all aluminum rediator. especially if your going to run nitrous and/or turbo. you'll need all the cooling you can get to not overheat it.

yeah... the car will be ran for.... 2-5 min's at a time and under a full load about 12sec's at a time so yeah... little bitty radiator will do the trick if not i'll jsut leave it stock. this is a 100% drag car. incase i forgot to tell yall. i'm realy just wanting to know if anyone's played with the bottle befor and or had any time on the track with a carbed bottled 13b

There's plenty of other ways to lose weight. The radiator, as said before, is CRITICAL, especially when on forced induction. (Nitrous counts as forced induction.)



Another key point is that rotaries use oil for a lot of their cooling. Keep a good oil cooler as well.







Look at the shape of the combustion chamber in a piston engine. It's small, squeezed between the underside of the head and the top of the piston... More energy goes into moving the piston. Note overheating usually damages head gaskets and warps heads.



Look at the shape of the combustion chamber in a rotary engine. It's long. Between the face of the rotor and the rotor housing... More energy is lost as heat going out into the cooling system, hence the inherent inefficiency of the wankel. Note overheating trashes coolant groove o-rings and it's usually in the area of the spark plugs. Also note that it's a good modification to cut grooves for extra surface area in the coolant passages near the spark plugs.



Just saying note the location of heat related failures in each engine as you'll see where the vulnerable spots are.





And another thing rotaries complete more combustion throughout one crank shaft/eccentric shaft revolution of the engine... In a single cylinder, you only get a power stroke through 180 deg of rotation, and that's once every two revolutions. in a rotary, you get power through 270 deg of rotation every single revolution.





Both points above place emphasis on the cooling system of a rotary engine.



It's also a good time to note that I have stock FC oil coolers (Roughly same size as 1979-1982 SA/FB oil coolers.) and I have a Ford 7.3L diesel V8 with a stock cooler. THis diesel is in a flatbed tow truck with dual rear wheels. I'll give you one guess as to which cooler is bigger.



I'm gonna be throwing out a Ford diesel oil cooler at some point. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

listen to Pele on the cooling. my car will overheat in less than a few minutes if it is warmed up and i don't turn on my fans... and i have a 2" 4 core aluminum ford racing radiator and an FC oil cooler. I've used the bottle a lil bit at the track. its a wet system with a holley 650. i kill my trailing ignition when i use it, (or you have to adjust your timing). so yea, i've played with it, but you'll have to be more specific with your questions if you want good answers.





oh, and what color is the interior?

off topic...kinda, directed towards pele



you got a pic of this "it's a good modification to cut grooves for extra surface area in the coolant passages near the spark plugs."

i'll ask the guy i bought the car from to email me some pic's. i forgot to save them. "i'm in iraq right now" i think it was brown... not 200% sure. but thank you for that info on the cooling. i'v over heated a 12a about 5 time's and locked it up 2 times. i let it cool an pored some oil down the carb an pulled it behind a ranger for about a half a mile poping the cluch to unseas it. it still ran fine with no smokeing proplems when i sold it for 100 bux. so that racing beat 600 carb thay offer for unported 6ports... is it a good step up from EFI? or would it be better to invest the 1,000 in the EFI rather than carb an intake? still have plan's to run 75-100 shot with open header. i seen that RB offer's lots of heat range's for the car. can't wait to get home an get my hands on this thing it has a spair motor too so i'm not worried about blowing chunks of 13b all over the track.

i know the feeling. i did two tours over there. (i got out a year ago) doing missions and thinking about wich part to order next. doing all your research with every extra minute you have...lol, been there.

glade some one know's the feeling. any one want to shine some light on the EFI vs the carb swap an the bottle on the both

it all comes down to what you want to do, and how far you want to take it. if your wanting to go EFI. swap in a 13b from a 2nd gen. it comes stock with more power and much more potential. carb is an easy upgrade and inexspensive compared to any EFI set-up.



but like i said, its all in what you want from the car. some will always choose fuel injection. some are die hard carb people...



heres what i would look at...



TII or 89-91 NA swap...keep it fuel injection for turbo, or RB manifold and a holley 600 for the NA motor.



or just throw a RB manifold and holley on your 13b motor you have in there. the EFI upgrade on this 13b isnt worth it, in my opinion. really i would rather have a 12a over the gsl-se 13b.