New ignition system
10-14-2002, 01:10 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 114
I get it...I think...Direct for for the trailing...So the leading fires both at the same time as always with direct fire, but the trailing has direct fire (from coils to plugs) as well. So you have one coil (dual post) or two coils for leading, and two coils (one for each plug) for the trailing, and youre just showing that you can use the direct fire idea to fire the trailing plugs at the right times without interfering with anything...Right?
~T.J.
~T.J.
10-15-2002, 12:11 PM
#13
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 08:31 AM
RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
how hard is it to rotary a midget? the car is light enough.....
mike
10-16-2002, 09:43 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 368
Originally Posted by RotorMotorDriver' date='Oct 14 2002, 02:10 PM
I get it...I think...Direct for for the trailing...So the leading fires both at the same time as always with direct fire, but the trailing has direct fire (from coils to plugs) as well. So you have one coil (dual post) or two coils for leading, and two coils (one for each plug) for the trailing, and youre just showing that you can use the direct fire idea to fire the trailing plugs at the right times without interfering with anything...Right?
~T.J.
~T.J.
The ultimate goal is to go to a coil-on-plug set up like some new cars have were each coil mounts onto the plug - no more plug wires!
Also for those who like MSD (I'm open minded - not quite sure if CD is the way to go....but it's not bad), this should be able to trigger their DIS-6 which will contain the complete ignition in one box. 3 inputs, 3 outputs.
10-16-2002, 09:45 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 368
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 12:31 PM
RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
:bigok:
How did it run? Loads of fun I hope!
10-16-2002, 09:49 AM
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 368
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Oct 15 2002, 01:11 PM
[quote name='Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 08:31 AM']RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
how hard is it to rotary a midget? the car is light enough.....
mike[/quote]
It isn't hard.
I've made a template and jig to make more motor mounts (I've made 3 so far for people). A few tips and tricks here and there is about all.
It is a little bit more than a bolt in mod, but not too bad.
I can't remember what Jeff is running, but I recomend a stronger rear than the MG unit (mine is a narrowed GSL-SE rear).
10-16-2002, 11:37 AM
#17
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by RX-Midget' date='Oct 16 2002, 06:49 AM
[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Oct 15 2002, 01:11 PM'][quote name='Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 08:31 AM']RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now.
how hard is it to rotary a midget? the car is light enough.....
mike[/quote]
It isn't hard.
I've made a template and jig to make more motor mounts (I've made 3 so far for people). A few tips and tricks here and there is about all.
It is a little bit more than a bolt in mod, but not too bad.
I can't remember what Jeff is running, but I recomend a stronger rear than the MG unit (mine is a narrowed GSL-SE rear).[/quote]
hmm cool, its tempting to do something like that. i need to go and liberate the bugeye.....
mike
10-16-2002, 12:51 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
It came with a streetported '73 RX-2 12A in it. All I did was install a stockport '74 13B and tranny from my REPU, along with all the other mods to make it fit. Pics and info can be found here: http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/cars.html#mg. I don't have any pics of the real engine in it, just the mockup. I ought to take a few pics today. Oh, and my first drive was hoodless! The usual stuff that can go bad from sitting for so long will need work. It needs a brake job, clutch master rebuild, front shocks (one is frozen and the other has no damping effect so only the left side lifts up when I stomp on it), brake light switch, etc. Aside from the loudish exhaust and the even louder tranny, my 13B had a lot more power in this car. RX-Midget, you're right about how hard the pedal is if using the stock clutch master. The brakes are bad and I had to press it as hard as I could and then it would start to slow down. I ended up rolling through several stop signs (oops!).
I shifted fast into 2nd and lifted the clutch pedal a little quick and it 'chirped' for 2.5 seconds without even trying, and then did a little burnout over a painted line near a fellow rotorhead's house. It spun for a bit longer than I thought it would and left paint marks on my tires hehe. I know I should take it easy on the diff, but if it breaks, then I'll have an excuse to get something that will take the power. I once had an '84 GSL disc brake rearend for it, but sold it to buy other stuff. Oh well, a GSL-SE is a better choice anyway. I'll get one some day.
Anyway, it needs a lot more work before it's road worthy. The radiator fan is grossly undersized, but the previous owner drove it like that all the time. I have installed the thermostatic switch from my REPU and it kicks the fan on well before the middle mark on the stock temp guage. I'm thinking about getting a better fan and maybe a three row core rad. I also have a some aftermarket guages I could add. Heh, even my speedo still works after installing a custom cable. I put like 2 miles on it.
As for the difficulty of installing a rotary in a spridget platform? It's a good idea to spend lots of time on this project. j9fd3s, your 20B FC engine bay looks like you spent lots of time on it. Use those skills on your Bugeye and it'll come out looking (and functioning) great!
About the pics, I'll see if I can get a couple before the sun starts to shine on the engine bay. That way the contrast won't be too high to see the darker areas. And maybe a few with the sun shinging...
Oops, forgot to mention that I've got plans to rebuild the '73 12A with an '85 rotating assembly. I'll see about using a '74+ end housing and delete a couple tension bolts. The rotor housings haven't been crushed much and are reusable. The part that actually failed was the thrust bearing area due to oil starvation from an undersized oil pump (12mm) and a shim in the oil pressure reg at 80-90PSI. The pump was really worn out. I've got a 17mm pump and a decent used thrust assembly waiting to go in, along with an old Nikki that I'll be testing as it's not had gas in it since 1990 hehe! I'll need to get another dizzy and a couple ignitors since all my parts went into my 20B dizzy. I was also thinking about bridgeporting the secondaries, but I'm still debating over that one.
I shifted fast into 2nd and lifted the clutch pedal a little quick and it 'chirped' for 2.5 seconds without even trying, and then did a little burnout over a painted line near a fellow rotorhead's house. It spun for a bit longer than I thought it would and left paint marks on my tires hehe. I know I should take it easy on the diff, but if it breaks, then I'll have an excuse to get something that will take the power. I once had an '84 GSL disc brake rearend for it, but sold it to buy other stuff. Oh well, a GSL-SE is a better choice anyway. I'll get one some day.
Anyway, it needs a lot more work before it's road worthy. The radiator fan is grossly undersized, but the previous owner drove it like that all the time. I have installed the thermostatic switch from my REPU and it kicks the fan on well before the middle mark on the stock temp guage. I'm thinking about getting a better fan and maybe a three row core rad. I also have a some aftermarket guages I could add. Heh, even my speedo still works after installing a custom cable. I put like 2 miles on it.
As for the difficulty of installing a rotary in a spridget platform? It's a good idea to spend lots of time on this project. j9fd3s, your 20B FC engine bay looks like you spent lots of time on it. Use those skills on your Bugeye and it'll come out looking (and functioning) great!
About the pics, I'll see if I can get a couple before the sun starts to shine on the engine bay. That way the contrast won't be too high to see the darker areas. And maybe a few with the sun shinging...
Oops, forgot to mention that I've got plans to rebuild the '73 12A with an '85 rotating assembly. I'll see about using a '74+ end housing and delete a couple tension bolts. The rotor housings haven't been crushed much and are reusable. The part that actually failed was the thrust bearing area due to oil starvation from an undersized oil pump (12mm) and a shim in the oil pressure reg at 80-90PSI. The pump was really worn out. I've got a 17mm pump and a decent used thrust assembly waiting to go in, along with an old Nikki that I'll be testing as it's not had gas in it since 1990 hehe! I'll need to get another dizzy and a couple ignitors since all my parts went into my 20B dizzy. I was also thinking about bridgeporting the secondaries, but I'm still debating over that one.
10-16-2002, 02:07 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
the 73 motor with 85 rotating assy works fine, actually they used to drill out 81-85 rotor housings and use the 73 steels too. of course it would be better to have the whole 81+ 12a, i think its lighter
mike
mike