My newest problems
#1
Hello again,
Let me update you on my problems... Firstly my car died a few months ago...it would start and warm up with the choke but would not idle...turned out to be some valve in the idle circuit was froze shut...anyway
We got that fixed and she ran better than ever...for a while...then the idle started to get worse and worse...and worse
I have changed my plug wires...cleaned the coils...replaced the plugs with new ngk's, cleaned the distributor and rotor...pretty much everything
The carb is also clean as a whistle...and we can't find any vaccum leaks with carb cleaner.
I start her and she runs fine with the choke...I can kick it off when she gets to the first 2 orange lines and she idles perfect at 800 rpm...but when she gets to normal operating range my idle goes from about 500 to 1000...not usually that much at once...but a few 100 rpm at a time up and down
Also I have noticed when I slow down to stop my rmp's are going down to almost 0 and then climbing back up to 600-1000...it varys
She died last night when I was turning into my driveway...started right back up...but still...she died when I slowed down...clutch to the floor
Thats why I'm posting this message...its starting to bother me quite a bit
I'm also getting a odd "shudder" of my engine when I go to stop...it vilolently shakes my stick shift around...along with the whole car...usually happens when the rpm's drop to almost 0
forgot about the smoke too...I believe its oil...it appears I have some leaking onto the non-functioning bolt on cat...on the side of my engine...I want to take it off but I don't have the cash for headers right now...already took off the air pump because it froze up...and we had the cats...all of em...cut off and a piece of pipe is in their place
perhaps someone can put some light on atleast one of my problems
-Adam
Let me update you on my problems... Firstly my car died a few months ago...it would start and warm up with the choke but would not idle...turned out to be some valve in the idle circuit was froze shut...anyway
We got that fixed and she ran better than ever...for a while...then the idle started to get worse and worse...and worse
I have changed my plug wires...cleaned the coils...replaced the plugs with new ngk's, cleaned the distributor and rotor...pretty much everything
The carb is also clean as a whistle...and we can't find any vaccum leaks with carb cleaner.
I start her and she runs fine with the choke...I can kick it off when she gets to the first 2 orange lines and she idles perfect at 800 rpm...but when she gets to normal operating range my idle goes from about 500 to 1000...not usually that much at once...but a few 100 rpm at a time up and down
Also I have noticed when I slow down to stop my rmp's are going down to almost 0 and then climbing back up to 600-1000...it varys
She died last night when I was turning into my driveway...started right back up...but still...she died when I slowed down...clutch to the floor
Thats why I'm posting this message...its starting to bother me quite a bit
I'm also getting a odd "shudder" of my engine when I go to stop...it vilolently shakes my stick shift around...along with the whole car...usually happens when the rpm's drop to almost 0
forgot about the smoke too...I believe its oil...it appears I have some leaking onto the non-functioning bolt on cat...on the side of my engine...I want to take it off but I don't have the cash for headers right now...already took off the air pump because it froze up...and we had the cats...all of em...cut off and a piece of pipe is in their place
perhaps someone can put some light on atleast one of my problems
-Adam
#2
Sounds like the sporadic idle and the drop in RPMs to almost zero is the result of a lack of fuel. Sounds like you already covered the basic stuff, like replacing the fuel filter, plugs etc. My 82 idles right around 500rpms, but I was thinking you might want to turn your idle up a bit. My Jeep would run great until I would come up to a stop quick or tight turn which would cause it to die, or surge like yours. I had just had some carb work done on it, and all that was needed was to have the idle turned up a bit. I am not the best qualified to answer your question, but I am sure one of these other rotorheads can help out.
#4
Cost me 25 bucks to find out what was wrong...and boy was it a good one...some parts inside my carb...waaaaay down in there...that control the change from idle to drive are totally wore out
The mechanic told me they are just designed for emissions and not performance...so I'm not really surprised
His temporary fix was to raise my idle so it would keep running...so now I idle at about 1200 to 1300 rpm...and it actually makes the engine tone deeper...it also shakes my whole car...not sure if that is good or not
The only thing he said he could do is to take off all the vaccum lines and install a new webber carb in its place...but that would run 4-500 bucks...almost as much as I payed for my car...no job right now either...so I'm going to have to wait
Anybody know a cheaper way to go about the carb thing while still doing away with all the vaccum lines?
The mechanic told me they are just designed for emissions and not performance...so I'm not really surprised
His temporary fix was to raise my idle so it would keep running...so now I idle at about 1200 to 1300 rpm...and it actually makes the engine tone deeper...it also shakes my whole car...not sure if that is good or not
The only thing he said he could do is to take off all the vaccum lines and install a new webber carb in its place...but that would run 4-500 bucks...almost as much as I payed for my car...no job right now either...so I'm going to have to wait
Anybody know a cheaper way to go about the carb thing while still doing away with all the vaccum lines?
#6
I'm running stock right now but I would really like to get away from that soon...don't have enough cash as of yet
I'm not sure if I want to use a holley or a webber tho...all of the holley kits I have seen cost about 7 to 8 hundred bucks...and I'm sure I would need a
kit to get rid of all those bloody vaccum lines and switches
How much do you sell the carbs for?...I may have to settle for stock for a while if the aftermarket setups are steep
I'm not sure if I want to use a holley or a webber tho...all of the holley kits I have seen cost about 7 to 8 hundred bucks...and I'm sure I would need a
kit to get rid of all those bloody vaccum lines and switches
How much do you sell the carbs for?...I may have to settle for stock for a while if the aftermarket setups are steep
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