I had some "high output racing coils" on my baby a while back...gas mileage was around 20-21...then they both popped about the same time...started leaking oil all over...it was rather nasty...and my car ran like crap



Got some "stock replacement" coils to stick into the holes...from o'reillys...but I've had my eye on some msd blaster 2 coils...found some in an e-bay store for right under 30 bucks with shipping thats not too bad...but...i read something about some ignition systems require a "ballast resistor"



I'm assuming its just for some sort of ancient ignition system...but I thought i'd check before I fry something...sure is cheaper to get them without that resistor



anyone with personal experience of using these things?

i'd really like to bring my babys "spark" back https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

I recall having some problems using them with stock ignitors - stumbles, hesitations, etc. Others have used them successfully. There may be a problem with the Blaster having a low 0.5 ohm primary resistance, whereas the stock coils are aroung 1.5 (I'd use the resistor). Otherwise the Blaster is a better coil than the stock one.



What coils did you have before?



BTW - the Blaster 3 is basically a Blaster 2 with a cap glued on, which creates a potential arc-over point.

I'm running DLIDFIS with stock coils on all four of my four port 13Bs (I just rebuilt one recently and will probably fire it up today). I've used Diamond, Bosch, and Hanshin without problems on stock J-109 ignitors. I see no need to get the MSD blaster 2 coils. Infact, I have an MSD 6AL that will go into an engine someday, and when it does, it's getting an FC leading coil. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif



If you want more spark, look into upgrading the ignition system itself, and not just the coil(s).

Here you go. This is typically what DLIDFIS looks like (alminum plate with two or three ignitors on it). I don't have any recent pictures with all the wiring done, but this is the basic idea.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1081749841.jpg

Jeff20B-

I think that if you invert (PNP transistor) the output from a J109 ignitor, it can trigger an 86 ignitor. The 86 ignitor is much more powerful than the J109, and the coil has much better RPM capability (only 0.25 ohms).

There is supposedly a way to trigger an '86 ignitor from the FB dizzy without the need for a J-109. I haven't looked into it yet because I'm not ready to take on that kind of a project yet. I think I'll hook my FC leading coil's ignitor to a trailing coil. There was some info on how to do that somehwere out there recently.



I think I'll set up something like this:

Leading will have MSD 6AL with FC leading coil

Trailing will have FC trailing coil with FC leading ignitor

Here is one with three ignitors. Two for leading and one for trailing. This setup had three Bosch or Hanshin or Diamond coils (either/or; it doesn't really matter). It also had a relay feeding power to the ignitors and coils directly from the battery.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1079943774.jpg

'86 ignitor needs a 5 volt square wave to trigger. 12 doesn't seem to bother it.

If you are slick you can make some sort of photo interrupter thing for the distributor to generate a rotor1/rotor2 select signal to feed to an '86 trailing coil assembly, and trigger it from the original ignitor. Then you have direct fire on the trailing too. (inputs to the trailing ignitor are "trigger" and "select")

I'm not really sure what coils I had before...I could check them I guess...probably not a brand on them tho...they're a light blue...if I remember correctly they were "high output" or some such crap. I'm back up into the 19MPG range again...so I'm not doing too bad right now



I usually don't have any trouble after she's warm...and its not too hard to get there anymore without the emissions. I'd really like one of those MSD ignition boxes...but I don't want to get one unless its going to help my MPG...thats really my only concern at the moment https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Gas just hit 1.75 for the low grade here...1.95 for high...its...horrible

need to find some sort of alternative fuel for my car https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



And speaking of relays and such...I've been having a terrible time with my headlights...since I added the driving lights into the factory harness especially...the cars idle drops 200-300 rpm with the lights on...would relaying the power help that some?...amp and stereo reciever are both wired directly to the battery and don't cause that problem...so I'm guessing the lights pull off the engine while its running?...its all rather confusing https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

Bosch maybe?





Some people have claimed MPG improvements. I wouldn't expect anything major unless something was wrong with the original parts, but it could be worthwhile.

I have heard from various people that the MSD-5 can improve mpg (on trucks anyway) but haven't tried on a rotary. It's an inductive multispark. Crane Hi6S and DMSI are similar.

Finally, my recent dealing with a GSL-SE leads me to believe there is something to be gained on the trailing side.

First, the trailing ignition was screwing up on this car. I had the owner swap some wires so it would run on lead only (the fuel injection normally triggers off the trail). Normally this would hurt mpg a little, but he said it went down to like 1/3 the normal mpg. Ouch. I finally fixed his car right, but as part of my diagnosis I tried an MSD on the trailing. Ran ok but had no power. WTF? Again, even with the trailing not firing it would have more power. Here's my guess: with no trailing, combustion is less complete, so there's more oxygen in the exhaust. The oxygen sensor thinks this is a lean condition, so the ECU richens the mixture...more and more and more... With the MSD on the trailing, combustion is more complete, so there's less oxygen in the exhaust. The ECU sees this as a rich condition and leans it out. I will have to play with this guy's car some more.





Don't bother with hi test - you can't buy gas too crappy for a NA rotary.





As a test, hook them straight to the battery and see if it slows down. If not, the problem is in your wiring harness (old, oxidized) and yes relays will help.