I'm looking at a 84 GSL-SE with 71k miles for $2300. I'm usually more into 2nd gens and don't really know what to check. I know someone with a compression tester but will a regular compression tester work for a rotary? If not how much does a compression test cost at a Mazda place? Any way I can tell if the cats are in good/bad shape? Any trouble spots I should look for?



From what I understand the previous owner left it sitting somewhere for quite a while and the paint faded a bit, now the guy that owns it now has had it for 2 years so any problems from the left sitting should be fixed (?). If everything appears to be in good shape except for the paint, is $2300 a good price or should I try to get it for less?

Also, since we don't have emissions tests around here, I could replace the cats with straight pipes, how would this affect gas mileage?

Thanks for the help.

 

i talked tha guy i bought my 85 from down to 1000 from about tha price your talkin bout ....but i had a mechanical problem insted of paint but it not bad of a problem (throughout bearing)

 

Called about another GSL-SE, everythings in good shape except for the engine

He put a new clutch, new brakes, and a new rear end in it, but one of the apex seals is bad. He wants $500...Anyone know how much a 13b with bad apex seals costs to rebuild? I can't do it myself so include a estimate on labor.

 

Well my rebuild for the same problem would have been about $1500 if it didn't do much damage.



Also... when checking the car check inside the rear fenderwells for rust.

 

around here, "good" GSL-SE engines can be had for less than $500.



and by "good" i mean, the seller will usually guarantee that it runs, but there is no guarantee that it's going to last any length of time.

 

when checking the car check inside the rear fenderwells for rust...



What he said.

A good rule of thumb is that everything on a first gen is cheap, except for the engine. Check the engine compression, that is what you are paying for.

(For those of you in the salty type areas also check for rust, as Armyofone mentioned.)

 

About that compression test..are we talking $30-$70 or $100+ for a compression test from the local Mazda place?

 

i just do it the cheap way; take out the plugs, and turn the motor over by hand. if you hear three strong PFF!s, it's a good sign. only one strong PFF! and you have a busted apex seal. two, and you have a bunk side seal.

 

yeah

check FAQ's for the ghetto compression test.

 

Me, being someone that has never heard a 1st gen engine being cranked at all (never even touched one! What a travesty...), could I definately tell by the "ghetto compression test" or do you have to have a trained ear to tell it? And does all the compression test say if you get it from the Mazda place is good or bad? I figured they would get exact numbers that could tell me if the engine was "perfect", "good", "getting ready to go", or "gone" of sorts...Whereas the "ghetto compression test" just tells me if it works now or is blown.