going to start on Matts holley 600 rb kit install soon. does anyone have pics of this kit, id like to see what people do with the fuel lines and the vacuum lines.



matt has no emissions but still has his rats nest, what can we get rid of now that there wont be FI either?

i did this with a rb manifold and a holley 650

[quote name='scottystraub' date='Aug 15 2005, 05:41 PM']i did this with a rb manifold and a holley 650


[/quote]



Gee, thanks for the irrelivent help there straub ehehe.



Sexy looking setup you got there.

hey guys, what size are the stock fuel lines and if they are the right size, like 3/8s, would it be a problem to use the HP FI lines for low pressure? i cant think of any problems that this would cause.

does anyone know where i can get the fsm? i cant find it anymore on iluvmyrx7

Hows this for fuel lines? Vacuum hoses? I have one, it goes to the brake booster, no vacuum to the dizzy.

thanks a lot josh, thats a great pic and i wouldnt be totally against you putting more up if you have them

Heres another one.

josh,



thanks for all the help, if youi could, please post close up pics of throttle linkage, fuel lines ect.



thank you for all the help.



-matt

hey guys, on the stock fuel pump do the lines connect with fittings or are they the slide on hose things?

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Aug 16 2005, 08:33 PM']hey guys, on the stock fuel pump do the lines connect with fittings or are they the slide on hose things?


[/quote]



slide on

is it going to be a problem to couple a 5/16th fuel line into a 3/8ths? The stock lines are 5/16ths and the lines that came with the kit are 3/8ths. the fuel would be going from the 5/16ths to the 3/8ths.

sorry i forgot to ask. when installing this kit are the 5 and 6 port sleeves supposed to be removed?

for future reference, rb says that the port sleeves are removed and the fuel lines are fine to go from 5/16ths to 3/8ths

BTW, my Holley setup isnt a RB setup. I just bought a RB manifold and bolted a Holley I got from Summit Racing to it. Mine wasnt a "kit".

hey josh, when you installed that manifold did you have problems with it not sitting flush on the block?

I definitely didnt have that problem. Are you indicating that the manifold face is warped? Thats odd. If its new I'd send it back. If its used, just go to a machine shop and get it resurfaced.

its new, it didnt look warped but when i put it on the right side sat right next to the block but the left side had a gap. i thought maybe it was getting caught on the header but it wasnt, and i could run my finger around the entire manifold so nothing was in the way. i got it on and when i tightened the bolts it straightened out and is now sitting against the block. hopefully its sealing

Maybe it was just a little tight fitting over the studs. Good luck!

thanks a lot. hey what did you do for your throttle cable? the stock one is too loose and theres not enough room to adjust it to tighten it up. im thinking it will have to be adjusted at the pedals

My car is a 72 RX3. I just used the stock cable with the RB cable bracket.

does anyone else have an idea about the throttle cable?

quick question, what does racing beat want you to do with the oil metering pump lines? do they have a vaccume entry point for the lines in the carb?

you cut 2 of the stock mop lines and t them into one which then connects to the carb.

hey guys, 2 more questions, hopefully ill get some help





1. the fittings we got for the fuel lines (pump and under hood) are ribbed on one end and threaded on the other. do we need to use something on the threads to seal them? the pump instructions say not to use teflon bc it may get in the system.



2. there are 2 nipples on the oil filler neck, but as far as ive seen there is only 1 that gets used with the kit. what are these for and will it be ok to block one of them off

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Aug 17 2005, 02:32 PM']hey josh, when you installed that manifold did you have problems with it not sitting flush on the block?


[/quote]

Hey, there is a 10 mm bolt that holds what looks like an inspection plate on the rear iron. That bolt is in the way of the new manifold, remove the manifold and check it with a machienists straight edge to see if it got warped by tightening with that bolt in the way.

ill check it out, thanks.

hey does anyone have any idea why we wouldnt be getting power at the fuel pump? it was running 2 days ago so i guess it had power then. pretty much the whole engine harness is not being used now, the o2 sensor is plugged in but i think thats all. the water temp connector is not connected. all of the other parts aof the harness are not connected.





the battery is connected and the pump is actually getting about .5 volt, and it runs, but it doesnt sound good and wont get any pressure.







do you guys think it could have something to do with the AFM not being plugged in?

ok guys this is kind of weird. i found a wire under the car that was not connected that has 12 volts with the ignition on. i hooked it up to the pump and it looses the power. i checked the ground and its good. i can hold the multi meter on the ground and the hot wire and it has about 12 and as soon as i put it on the pump pos. wire the pump doesnt come on and the multi meter starts giving fluctuating low readings.



if we hook it up straight to the battery it comes on and makes noise but it doesnt get any fuel to the carb. could this be bc the filter is the one from the HP FI system? there arent any leaks anywhere





please help guys, im really stumped on this one

is it true that the stock pump lines wont come on until the car is cranked? i thought they would come on with the ignition on.

On a 2nd gen the pump does not flow until the car is cranked and the AFM senses airflow. I would immagine a F.I. 1st gen bieng very similar.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Aug 18 2005, 10:11 PM']hey does anyone have any idea why we wouldnt be getting power at the fuel pump? it was running 2 days ago so i guess it had power then. pretty much the whole engine harness is not being used now, the o2 sensor is plugged in but i think thats all. the water temp connector is not connected. all of the other parts aof the harness are not connected.

the battery is connected and the pump is actually getting about .5 volt, and it runs, but it doesnt sound good and wont get any pressure.



do you guys think it could have something to do with the AFM not being plugged in?


[/quote]



What about the yellow connector that has four wires in it under the windshield washer reservior. Did you unplug that one? It normally provides power to the ECU and injectors. Did you disconnect any fusible links? Check the engine fuse (20 amp) in the car. It also powers the pump. That wire under the car is probably the exhaust overheat sensor or one of the transmission swtches (reverse, neutral, or 5th gear). Make sure the inlet and outlet lines are in the correct spot and make sure the polarity is right on the pump.



Kent

are you saying that we need to unplug the yellow one under the washer, or just make sure its plugged in?

gsl-se ecu doesnt turn the fuel pump on unless it sees a tach/rpm signal from the trailing ignitor

thats good to know, that solves all of the problems. except we arent totally sure that the fuel filter is whats causing the fuel blockage.



j9, do you know positively that the stock gslse filter will not flow with this 6psi pump? a lot of people are saying yes and a lot are saying no, but no one says they actually know from experience

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Aug 20 2005, 09:25 AM']thats good to know, that solves all of the problems. except we arent totally sure that the fuel filter is whats causing the fuel blockage.



j9, do you know positively that the stock gslse filter will not flow with this 6psi pump? a lot of people are saying yes and a lot are saying no, but no one says they actually know from experience


[/quote]



Make sure that the yellow connector is connected. j9: I am pretty sure that is true on the 12A cars, but the GSL-SE uses the switch in the AFM to do that. The fuel pump is energized with either



-key 'on' and AFM switch activated

or

-key in the cranking position.



If there is no signal from the trailing, the injectors won't fire, though.



I believe Paradox on the club was using the SE filter with a Holley carb. I will ask him, though. I is possible that it may be too restrictive for a carb pump, but that should matter for low flow/starting. It could possibly starve fuel at high rpm/load, though.

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Aug 20 2005, 12:21 PM']Make sure that the yellow connector is connected. j9: I am pretty sure that is true on the 12A cars, but the GSL-SE uses the switch in the AFM to do that. The fuel pump is energized with either



-key 'on' and AFM switch activated

or

-key in the cranking position.



If there is no signal from the trailing, the injectors won't fire, though.



I believe Paradox on the club was using the SE filter with a Holley carb. I will ask him, though. I is possible that it may be too restrictive for a carb pump, but that should matter for low flow/starting. It could possibly starve fuel at high rpm/load, though.


[/quote]



oh yeah forgot about that shutoff switch https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

hey guys what do we need to do with the timing advance? the kit says it wont be used, and the vacuum lines arent connected to anything right now bc the rats nest is gone. do we need to secure the distributor or anything?

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Aug 21 2005, 09:24 AM']hey guys what do we need to do with the timing advance? the kit says it wont be used, and the vacuum lines arent connected to anything right now bc the rats nest is gone. do we need to secure the distributor or anything?


[/quote]



nope, leave lone

thanks man.