Great Way To Lower Engine Temps
06-23-2005, 10:16 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas Texas (Oak Cliff)
Posts: 210
[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 07:38 AM']buy a larger radiator or get a thermostat that opens at 160 degrees, they do sell them. I have a Griffin radiator dual core and the runners are 1.5in each yes it's 3in thick and over kill but my motor will never overheat. It's a highly modified 13brew turbo that is going to be running close to 30psi boost pressures and heat will be a major problem but not for me and yes I still run a THERMOSTAT on it.
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I've been trying to get a 160 thermostat for my 1st gen but have only found 180 at local parts stores, where could I purchase a 160? Cuz I'd buy a few. I too live in Texas and have had problems with engine running a bit warm. Removed the 195 stat and replaced with the 180, even tried the remove the stat and plug the 1/2 inch whole as stated in the Racing Beat catalog. I took the precaution of running both stock and aftermarket temp gauges and they both read diffrent. Of course I am aware of Mazda's stock gauge pretty much reading cold, normal, you fried it ....please insert new engine kind of gauges...
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I've been trying to get a 160 thermostat for my 1st gen but have only found 180 at local parts stores, where could I purchase a 160? Cuz I'd buy a few. I too live in Texas and have had problems with engine running a bit warm. Removed the 195 stat and replaced with the 180, even tried the remove the stat and plug the 1/2 inch whole as stated in the Racing Beat catalog. I took the precaution of running both stock and aftermarket temp gauges and they both read diffrent. Of course I am aware of Mazda's stock gauge pretty much reading cold, normal, you fried it ....please insert new engine kind of gauges...
06-23-2005, 10:21 AM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Richardson Texas
Posts: 4,326
[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 10:31 PM']Yah Im all for NEW ideas, not something every 16 y/o has done to their first car. The TB mod is great too, btw how much more power did that give you?
When I had my turbo 6 I gave a **** about doing the TB mod because it cooled my charge temps a bit, whats your reason? I was turnin wrenches on cars when you were on your moms tit, if all you can do is tell me to knit something Im done acknowledging your ignorance.
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i never did the tb mod, and the purpose of that mod is not power but throttle response. youre 5 years older than me, and im not even sure i was breast fed.
you never answered if the temp of the top of the rad. being 174 (obviously more and over 180 at the wp) is ok, after all the only issue you pointed out that was a problem with removing the tstat was that it would be running cooler than the engineers designed it to.
[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:38 AM']1revnrex I now understand your frustration with this person. Shane have you even read through and understood what I explained on my earlier post. How are you going to get an accurate read of your engine temperatures from the top of the radiator. That's the whole reason why the factory temperature sensor is placed right at the exit of the waterpump, to get an accurate reading of ENGINE temperature. And trust me son I've been building rotary engines for well over a decade. You can run without a thermostat that's fine but you need to plug that 1/2in hole. Trust me on that one. There are no if's, and's or but's about it. This will be my last post on this topic whether you believe me or not is not of any concern to me. I just hope others read what I have written and don't go pulling out there thermostats for no apparent reason. If you are so concerned of your cooling system not opening or not cooling enough buy a larger radiator or get a thermostat that opens at 160 degrees, they do sell them. I have a Griffin radiator dual core and the runners are 1.5in each yes it's 3in thick and over kill but my motor will never overheat. It's a highly modified 13brew turbo that is going to be running close to 30psi boost pressures and heat will be a major problem but not for me and yes I still run a THERMOSTAT on it.
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i know that the reading that i got at the top of the radiator will be a little off, but not that much with the car sitting still. i wasnt looking for an exact engine temp, i just wanted to see how close it was to the 180 figure that 1revnrex said, and with the temps at the top of the rad being that high im sure youll agree that the engine temps will be over 180.
according to what i believe you said, the only problem that not plugging that hole will cause is maybe an inaccurate reading on the temp gauge. if thats the case im not worried about it bc the gauge is working and seems to be pretty accurate. if im wrong please correct me.
When I had my turbo 6 I gave a **** about doing the TB mod because it cooled my charge temps a bit, whats your reason? I was turnin wrenches on cars when you were on your moms tit, if all you can do is tell me to knit something Im done acknowledging your ignorance.
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i never did the tb mod, and the purpose of that mod is not power but throttle response. youre 5 years older than me, and im not even sure i was breast fed.
you never answered if the temp of the top of the rad. being 174 (obviously more and over 180 at the wp) is ok, after all the only issue you pointed out that was a problem with removing the tstat was that it would be running cooler than the engineers designed it to.
[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:38 AM']1revnrex I now understand your frustration with this person. Shane have you even read through and understood what I explained on my earlier post. How are you going to get an accurate read of your engine temperatures from the top of the radiator. That's the whole reason why the factory temperature sensor is placed right at the exit of the waterpump, to get an accurate reading of ENGINE temperature. And trust me son I've been building rotary engines for well over a decade. You can run without a thermostat that's fine but you need to plug that 1/2in hole. Trust me on that one. There are no if's, and's or but's about it. This will be my last post on this topic whether you believe me or not is not of any concern to me. I just hope others read what I have written and don't go pulling out there thermostats for no apparent reason. If you are so concerned of your cooling system not opening or not cooling enough buy a larger radiator or get a thermostat that opens at 160 degrees, they do sell them. I have a Griffin radiator dual core and the runners are 1.5in each yes it's 3in thick and over kill but my motor will never overheat. It's a highly modified 13brew turbo that is going to be running close to 30psi boost pressures and heat will be a major problem but not for me and yes I still run a THERMOSTAT on it.
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i know that the reading that i got at the top of the radiator will be a little off, but not that much with the car sitting still. i wasnt looking for an exact engine temp, i just wanted to see how close it was to the 180 figure that 1revnrex said, and with the temps at the top of the rad being that high im sure youll agree that the engine temps will be over 180.
according to what i believe you said, the only problem that not plugging that hole will cause is maybe an inaccurate reading on the temp gauge. if thats the case im not worried about it bc the gauge is working and seems to be pretty accurate. if im wrong please correct me.
06-23-2005, 10:37 AM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 186
according to what i believe you said, the only problem that not plugging that hole will cause is maybe an inaccurate reading on the temp gauge. if thats the case im not worried about it bc the gauge is working and seems to be pretty accurate. if im wrong please correct me.
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Yes an inaccurate reading due to the cooler coolant getting pushed up through the hole from the pressure side of the water pump. So your actual engine temperature, inside your engine, is hotter than what is being read by the sensor. Like I stated before when the thermostat is closed it forces the hot coolant back down that hole but if that hole is left open all the time than that cooler coolant coming from the radiator is being forced up that hole and not getting into your engine to cool things off. Your readings will be inaccurate and your engine temperatures will be elevated without you knowing. Essentially you are frying your motor because the cooling system is not working properly.
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Yes an inaccurate reading due to the cooler coolant getting pushed up through the hole from the pressure side of the water pump. So your actual engine temperature, inside your engine, is hotter than what is being read by the sensor. Like I stated before when the thermostat is closed it forces the hot coolant back down that hole but if that hole is left open all the time than that cooler coolant coming from the radiator is being forced up that hole and not getting into your engine to cool things off. Your readings will be inaccurate and your engine temperatures will be elevated without you knowing. Essentially you are frying your motor because the cooling system is not working properly.
06-23-2005, 10:40 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 186
[quote name='jgarza77' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:16 AM']I've been trying to get a 160 thermostat for my 1st gen but have only found 180 at local parts stores, where could I purchase a 160? Cuz I'd buy a few. I too live in Texas and have had problems with engine running a bit warm. Removed the 195 stat and replaced with the 180, even tried the remove the stat and plug the 1/2 inch whole as stated in the Racing Beat catalog. I took the precaution of running both stock and aftermarket temp gauges and they both read diffrent. Of course I am aware of Mazda's stock gauge pretty much reading cold, normal, you fried it ....please insert new engine kind of gauges...
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You have to order it online http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=133&ptset=A Personally to get rid of the heat problem I would go with a larger radiator. The biggest one you can fit rotary's hate heat and the better you can control that heat the better it will run and be more efficient.
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You have to order it online http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=133&ptset=A Personally to get rid of the heat problem I would go with a larger radiator. The biggest one you can fit rotary's hate heat and the better you can control that heat the better it will run and be more efficient.
06-23-2005, 10:56 AM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Richardson Texas
Posts: 4,326
[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 09:37 AM']Yes an inaccurate reading due to the cooler coolant getting pushed up through the hole from the pressure side of the water pump. So your actual engine temperature, inside your engine, is hotter than what is being read by the sensor. Like I stated before when the thermostat is closed it forces the hot coolant back down that hole but if that hole is left open all the time than that cooler coolant coming from the radiator is being forced up that hole and not getting into your engine to cool things off. Your readings will be inaccurate and your engine temperatures will be elevated without you knowing. Essentially you are frying your motor because the cooling system is not working properly.
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now thats what i wanted to hear... back in it goes.
oh and thanks for sticking with me through my ignorance on this subject.
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now thats what i wanted to hear... back in it goes.
oh and thanks for sticking with me through my ignorance on this subject.
06-23-2005, 11:11 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas Texas (Oak Cliff)
Posts: 210
[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:40 AM']You have to order it online http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=133&ptset=A Personally to get rid of the heat problem I would go with a larger radiator. The biggest one you can fit rotary's hate heat and the better you can control that heat the better it will run and be more efficient.
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THANKS!!! Just ordered a couple, I appreciate your help.
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THANKS!!! Just ordered a couple, I appreciate your help.
06-23-2005, 11:43 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 186
[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:56 AM']now thats what i wanted to hear... back in it goes.
oh and thanks for sticking with me through my ignorance on this subject.
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No worrys Shane.
oh and thanks for sticking with me through my ignorance on this subject.
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No worrys Shane.
06-23-2005, 11:49 AM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Vero Beach, Florida
Posts: 674
Jesus h christ, how in the hell is bypassing a coolant hose attached to the TB going to increase throttle response tell me please!! You ever heard of a phenolic spacer? Do you even know what they are used for? The whole idea of the TB mod is to keep heat AWAY from your INTAKE! Now with you having a stock motor and all I dont see what benefits your expecting to get from doing all of these Mickey Mouse mods but whatever its your time and your busted knuckles. And for the record 5 years is a long time as far as experience goes and seeing as I am studying for my ASE certification right now and you are jockeying a bank register maybe you should sit back and look/listen a lil bit. I dont care how many posts you have or how long you have been a member on NP, that doesnt mean **** to me. If you wanna talk about useless "mods" to do to your car Im sure that the Club has probably got a FAQ sheet just full of them. Good Day.
06-23-2005, 12:18 PM
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Richardson Texas
Posts: 4,326
[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 23 2005, 10:49 AM']Jesus h christ, how in the hell is bypassing a coolant hose attached to the TB going to increase throttle response tell me please!! You ever heard of a phenolic spacer? Do you even know what they are used for? The whole idea of the TB mod is to keep heat AWAY from your INTAKE! Now with you having a stock motor and all I dont see what benefits your expecting to get from doing all of these Mickey Mouse mods but whatever its your time and your busted knuckles. And for the record 5 years is a long time as far as experience goes and seeing as I am studying for my ASE certification right now and you are jockeying a bank register maybe you should sit back and look/listen a lil bit. I dont care how many posts you have or how long you have been a member on NP, that doesnt mean **** to me. If you wanna talk about useless "mods" to do to your car Im sure that the Club has probably got a FAQ sheet just full of them. Good Day.
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the whole idea of the throttle body mod is to clean up the tb and get rid of the secondary throttle. getting rid of the coolant and the thermowax is just a small added benefit that probably doesnt help much if at all. but there has been a lot of good feedback from people who have done the tb mod and they say it works, i guess they are all just imagining? thats like saying dlidfis is worthless, even though everyone who has done it has been satisfied. i dont know why you brought up the phenolic spacer, oh thats right you thought the tb mod was to cool the tb. i seriously doubt that a spacer is going to keep temps down very much with the engine only about 4 inches away. the ambient temp is high enough to heat the tb up on its own.
oh and youre really stunning me with your "studying for my ASE certification," im sure they teach a lot about rotaries and modifying them.
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the whole idea of the throttle body mod is to clean up the tb and get rid of the secondary throttle. getting rid of the coolant and the thermowax is just a small added benefit that probably doesnt help much if at all. but there has been a lot of good feedback from people who have done the tb mod and they say it works, i guess they are all just imagining? thats like saying dlidfis is worthless, even though everyone who has done it has been satisfied. i dont know why you brought up the phenolic spacer, oh thats right you thought the tb mod was to cool the tb. i seriously doubt that a spacer is going to keep temps down very much with the engine only about 4 inches away. the ambient temp is high enough to heat the tb up on its own.
oh and youre really stunning me with your "studying for my ASE certification," im sure they teach a lot about rotaries and modifying them.