My car has been pretty much overheating for a couple of weeks now, it would peak right past the thin line on the hot side of the temp gauge, then come back down. I thought the problem was maybe a clogged radiator, but when i thought about it that didnt make much sense bc the temps would stay down after they peaked. This made me think it was the thermostat, so i took it out. The car now stays just above the 2nd mark on the coolant gauge, probably about 1/6 of the way up the whole gauge, and thats in 95+ degree weather. everyone should get rid of their thermostat!



p.s. i plan on putting one in when winter rolls around so the heater will work better, but til then this thing is gonna be running cool.

i would say your thermostat was bad. you should always run a tstat

[quote name='vosko' date='Jun 22 2005, 02:18 PM']i would say your thermostat was bad. you should always run a tstat


[/quote]



yeah i would also say it was bad, and why not go statless?

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:32 PM']yeah i would also say it was bad, and why not go statless?


[/quote]









In winter your going to be running WAY too cool

[quote name='nopistons94' date='Jun 22 2005, 02:36 PM']In winter your going to be running WAY too cool


[/quote]





[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 01:35 PM']



p.s. i plan on putting one in when winter rolls around so the heater will work better, but til then this thing is gonna be running cool.


[/quote]

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 12:32 PM']yeah i would also say it was bad, and why not go statless?


[/quote]



If your car is FI, then the cooler temp can throw some of the CPU readings off, resulting in richer/leaner mixtures. More than likely, just richer.

its not any cooler than it was when i was 30 degrees outside in january. i thought about it throwing the aws off since it takes so long to get to temp now, but i dont think that it will be a problem, especially if i get rid of the aws.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 01:32 PM']yeah i would also say it was bad, and why not go statless?


[/quote]



Have you taken a look inside the water pump housing? Well if you do you will notice that there is a hole about 1/2 in diameter. The purpose of that hole is to recirculate hot coolant back into the motor for faster warm up. The thermostat has a piece that covers that hole when it opens up and prevents that hot coolant to recirculate back into your motor. You can run without a thermostat but the hole needs to be blocked. You can use 1/2in npt blind fitting and will be fine also I would gut the thermostat and put it back in. That little bit resistance will allow your radiator to work more efficiently.

[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 22 2005, 03:35 PM']Have you taken a look inside the water pump housing? Well if you do you will notice that there is a hole about 1/2 in diameter. The purpose of that hole is to recirculate hot coolant back into the motor for faster warm up. The thermostat has a piece that covers that hole when it opens up and prevents that hot coolant to recirculate back into your motor. You can run without a thermostat but the hole needs to be blocked. You can use 1/2in npt blind fitting and will be fine also I would gut the thermostat and put it back in. That little bit resistance will allow your radiator to work more efficiently.


[/quote]





youre talking about the negative effects being hot water recirculating making it hotter and the radiator not working as effectively, but like i said the car is running just over the second line on the cool side of the temp gauge, which is pretty low.



would the things you said cause other problems than just making it hotter than it could be?



also, i dont mind the hot water getting in there warming it up more quickly, if it didnt it would be warming up even more slowly.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 05:43 PM']youre talking about the negative effects being hot water recirculating making it hotter and the radiator not working as effectively, but like i said the car is running just over the second line on the cool side of the temp gauge, which is pretty low.



would the things you said cause other problems than just making it hotter than it could be?



also, i dont mind the hot water getting in there warming it up more quickly, if it didnt it would be warming up even more slowly.


[/quote]





You are an idiot, quit tryin to reinvent the wheel and put a thermostat back in it.



Obviously someone with an engineering background in motors decided that it would be wise if your 13B FI ran at 180 degrees, so much that they programmed the ecu with that temperature in mind. What are you gaining from having your cars temp flop all over the place? Nothing.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 02:43 PM']youre talking about the negative effects being hot water recirculating making it hotter and the radiator not working as effectively, but like i said the car is running just over the second line on the cool side of the temp gauge, which is pretty low.



would the things you said cause other problems than just making it hotter than it could be?



also, i dont mind the hot water getting in there warming it up more quickly, if it didnt it would be warming up even more slowly.


[/quote]



It's about making your system work efficiently. You want the heat dissipated through the radiator that's it's purpose and you are simply reintroducing hot coolant back into your system. An engine that runs "too" cool is not as efficient as an engine that is in the correct temerature range. Besides that this has been known knowledge with many road racers and engine builders. You can even look in a Racing Beat performance manual and it will state these facts to you. I'm just trying to help you out with information.

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:31 PM']You are an idiot, quit tryin to reinvent the wheel and put a thermostat back in it.



Obviously someone with an engineering background in motors decided that it would be wise if your 13B FI ran at 180 degrees, so much that they programmed the ecu with that temperature in mind. What are you gaining from having your cars temp flop all over the place? Nothing.


[/quote]

the temp is not flopping all over the place, it sits right where i said it does, which is not any cooler than it is in the winter. also, those same engineers put aws, a thermowax, a rats nest, secondary throttle on our cars too, just to name a few, and how many people have gotten rid of that stuff? if youre saying that there is no better way to run than the way it was designed then you may want to look into another hobby.



[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:31 PM']It's about making your system work efficiently. You want the heat dissipated through the radiator that's it's purpose and you are simply reintroducing hot coolant back into your system. An engine that runs "too" cool is not as efficient as an engine that is in the correct temerature range. Besides that this has been known knowledge with many road racers and engine builders. You can even look in a Racing Beat performance manual and it will state these facts to you. I'm just trying to help you out with information.


[/quote]





thank you for trying to help me out with info, thats what i need. im looking for adverse affects or damage caused by what ive done. like i said the engine is not running any cooler now than it did in the winter, and that is a tx winter at about 20 or 30 degrees outside. im sure guys' in the north have even cooler temps than i do and no ones saying they are gonna have a problem.





ill put a thermometer on there tonight and see exactly how hot its getting.

Hey guess what, lemme let ya in on a secret. Those engineers that built the motor for your car, guess what... they also helped build the race motors for Mazda at the time. You wanna know something else, they also didnt have to put those cars thru strict emission testing in order to get them into the US. You think Mazda wanted to throw the rats nest on the 7's? I think not. As far as me lookin into another hobby, not likely. I make too much money on the side fixing ****-ups that people like you run into after they "modify" there cars.





You wanna make your car run good? Do this, yank that piece of **** 300 thousand mile out and rebuild it. Or you could just keep throwing parts at it like your doing now and go broke. The choice is yours.

Shane let me break it down Barney style for you as I probably didn't explain clearly. If you think of the system when the thermostat is closed the 1/2in hole is open and allows for hot coolant to recirculate into the engine to speed up warm up. Now when the thermostat opens it closes that hole and forces all the hot coolant out the engine and go to your radiator to be cooled off. Now if that hole is left open the whole time you have to remember that the pressure from the water pump is going to force "cool" coolant through that hole and give you a false reading of temperature. Think of where your temperature sensor is at right below the thermostat and right above that 1/2 hole. So you are getting a cool reading at the sensor but the actual temperature in your engine will be higher. Hope that makes sense to you. Put the thermostat back in if your temperatures are still high your problems are else where.

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:53 PM']

You wanna make your car run good? Do this, yank that piece of **** 300 thousand mile out and rebuild it. Or you could just keep throwing parts at it like your doing now and go broke. The choice is yours.


[/quote]



if you didnt notice, i am not "throwing parts at it" i am getting rid of them. and i dont think ill go broke by not spending any money

[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:53 PM']Shane let me break it down Barney style for you as I probably didn't explain clearly. If you think of the system when the thermostat is closed the 1/2in hole is open and allows for hot coolant to recirculate into the engine to speed up warm up. Now when the thermostat opens it closes that hole and forces all the hot coolant out the engine and go to your radiator to be cooled off. Now if that hole is left open the whole time you have to remember that the pressure from the water pump is going to force "cool" coolant through that hole and give you a false reading of temperature. Think of where your temperature sensor is at right below the thermostat and right above that 1/2 hole. So you are getting a cool reading at the sensor but the actual temperature in your engine will be higher. Hope that makes sense to you. Put the thermostat back in if your temperatures are still high your problems are else where.


[/quote]





ahhhhh, false readings.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 06:57 PM']if you didnt notice, i am not "throwing parts at it" i am getting rid of them. and i dont think ill go broke by not spending any money


[/quote]





Whatever man, I dont really give a **** what you do with your car. Lemme know what junkyard it ends up in just in case Im ever in Texas. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 03:53 PM']Hey guess what, lemme let ya in on a secret. Those engineers that built the motor for your car, guess what... they also helped build the race motors for Mazda at the time. You wanna know something else, they also didnt have to put those cars thru strict emission testing in order to get them into the US. You think Mazda wanted to throw the rats nest on the 7's? I think not. As far as me lookin into another hobby, not likely. I make too much money on the side fixing ****-ups that people like you run into after they "modify" there cars.

You wanna make your car run good? Do this, yank that piece of **** 300 thousand mile out and rebuild it. Or you could just keep throwing parts at it like your doing now and go broke. The choice is yours.


[/quote]



Bro you sound really angry. Take a deep breath. This forum is to help educate those that don't know any better and are trying to learn. Sometimes you have to get really detailed for those that are not as knowledgeable as yourself. And from the looks of it you know more than most. Just do it like I told you answers don't help anyone out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 22 2005, 07:11 PM']Bro you sound really angry. Take a deep breath. This forum is to help educate those that don't know any better and are trying to learn. Sometimes you have to get really detailed for those that are not as knowledgeable as yourself. And from the looks of it you know more than most. Just do it like I told you answers don't help anyone out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png


[/quote]





I appreciate your comment on the situation and will take it into consideration on my next post.





Having said that if you do a search for threads by him you will see its the same damn thing everytime, him tryin to reinvent the wheel or asking a question that has been asked 6500 times before.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:49 PM']


[/quote]





[attachment=32023:attachment]

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 04:31 PM']You are an idiot, quit tryin to reinvent the wheel and put a thermostat back in it.



Obviously someone with an engineering background in motors decided that it would be wise if your 13B FI ran at 180 degrees, so much that they programmed the ecu with that temperature in mind. What are you gaining from having your cars temp flop all over the place? Nothing.


[/quote]





well i checked the temp of the coolant after the half hour drive home and it was at 174, only 6 degrees less than you say that the amazing mazda engineers (we can all tell theyre so amazing after they designed the FD) designed it to run at. do you think that will be a problem o' rotary genius?

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 22 2005, 05:26 PM']well i checked the temp of the coolant after the half hour drive home and it was at 174, only 6 degrees less than you say that the amazing mazda engineers (we can all tell theyre so amazing after they designed the FD) designed it to run at. do you think that will be a problem o' rotary genius?


[/quote]



How did you check the temperature?

digital thermometer with a probe placed directly in the radiator just after i turned the car off

how did you take the cap off without shooting burning liquid all over yourself ..





is this one of your 3 super powers ... don't lieeeee

you went to the trouble of taking it out, should have just bit the bullet and invested the $10 in putting a new one back in

[quote name='nopistons94' date='Jun 22 2005, 08:16 PM']how did you take the cap off without shooting burning liquid all over yourself ..

is this one of your 3 super powers ... don't lieeeee


[/quote]



it overflowed a little, the cap turns almost all the way then has to be pushed down to turn it the rest of the way so i turned it until it needed to be pushed down and let the pressure die down



[quote name='Rob x-7' date='Jun 22 2005, 08:44 PM']you went to the trouble of taking it out, should have just bit the bullet and invested the $10 in putting a new one back in


[/quote]



i was trying to find a way to get it to run cooler with the high tx temps. it only took me 5 minutes to do it so if it isnt successful i will get one and put it in.

HahHAH You ARE a ******* idiot!! Who the hell takes a coolant cap off of a hot radiator and proceeds to take the temperature of the coolant inside it to prove a point to someone he has never met on the internet?!?! Not only that but do you think that sudden collapses of pressure is good for the cooling system on your ORIGINAL motor?(i.e. brittle 225k mile coolant seals, water pump gaskets etc.)





I see that Rob is in here <waves> so if this thread needs moderation than moderate away. My point is if your gonna post in a forum other than GenD at least have a decent question/statement not some hillbilly **** like, "Hey man if yuh pull out yer thurmo-stat yer mowder runs kooler!!!"





Thanks for coming out God bless ya goodnite.

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 09:25 PM']HahHAH You ARE a ******* idiot!! Who the hell takes a coolant cap off of a hot radiator and proceeds to take the temperature of the coolant inside it to prove a point to someone he has never met on the internet?!?! Not only that but do you think that sudden collapses of pressure is good for the cooling system on your ORIGINAL motor?(i.e. brittle 225k mile coolant seals, water pump gaskets etc.)

I see that Rob is in here <waves> so if this thread needs moderation than moderate away. My point is if your gonna post in a forum other than GenD at least have a decent question/statement not some hillbilly **** like, "Hey man if yuh pull out yer thurmo-stat yer mowder runs kooler!!!"

Thanks for coming out God bless ya goodnite.


[/quote]

first of all i wasnt doing that to try to prove anything to anyone except myself, you say its supposed to run at 180 and i wanted to see how far off it was.



second, im not too worried about the seals, i know theyre old and if they go they go. thats why i have 2 cars, if one is broken ill drive the other.



thirdly, i dont care if you think its hillbilly, it made the engine run cooler and thats what i was going for. if you think thats hillbilly i guess you also think its hillbilly to do the tb mod and get rid of the coolant line through the tb.



like i said before, if you are so closed to new ideas you should probably find a new hobby. possibly one that includes yarn or thread, the people with those hobbies have been doing their stuff the same way forever!

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 23 2005, 12:00 AM']first of all i wasnt doing that to try to prove anything to anyone except myself, you say its supposed to run at 180 and i wanted to see how far off it was.



second, im not too worried about the seals, i know theyre old and if they go they go. thats why i have 2 cars, if one is broken ill drive the other.



thirdly, i dont care if you think its hillbilly, it made the engine run cooler and thats what i was going for. if you think thats hillbilly i guess you also think its hillbilly to do the tb mod and get rid of the coolant line through the tb.



like i said before, if you are so closed to new ideas you should probably find a new hobby. possibly one that includes yarn or thread, the people with those hobbies have been doing their stuff the same way forever!


[/quote]







Yah Im all for NEW ideas, not something every 16 y/o has done to their first car. The TB mod is great too, btw how much more power did that give you? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif





When I had my turbo 6 I gave a **** about doing the TB mod because it cooled my charge temps a bit, whats your reason? I was turnin wrenches on cars when you were on your moms tit, if all you can do is tell me to knit something Im done acknowledging your ignorance.

1revnrex I now understand your frustration with this person. Shane have you even read through and understood what I explained on my earlier post. How are you going to get an accurate read of your engine temperatures from the top of the radiator. That's the whole reason why the factory temperature sensor is placed right at the exit of the waterpump, to get an accurate reading of ENGINE temperature. And trust me son I've been building rotary engines for well over a decade. You can run without a thermostat that's fine but you need to plug that 1/2in hole. Trust me on that one. There are no if's, and's or but's about it. This will be my last post on this topic whether you believe me or not is not of any concern to me. I just hope others read what I have written and don't go pulling out there thermostats for no apparent reason. If you are so concerned of your cooling system not opening or not cooling enough buy a larger radiator or get a thermostat that opens at 160 degrees, they do sell them. I have a Griffin radiator dual core and the runners are 1.5in each yes it's 3in thick and over kill but my motor will never overheat. It's a highly modified 13brew turbo that is going to be running close to 30psi boost pressures and heat will be a major problem but not for me and yes I still run a THERMOSTAT on it.

[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 07:38 AM']buy a larger radiator or get a thermostat that opens at 160 degrees, they do sell them. I have a Griffin radiator dual core and the runners are 1.5in each yes it's 3in thick and over kill but my motor will never overheat. It's a highly modified 13brew turbo that is going to be running close to 30psi boost pressures and heat will be a major problem but not for me and yes I still run a THERMOSTAT on it.


[/quote]

I've been trying to get a 160 thermostat for my 1st gen but have only found 180 at local parts stores, where could I purchase a 160? Cuz I'd buy a few. I too live in Texas and have had problems with engine running a bit warm. Removed the 195 stat and replaced with the 180, even tried the remove the stat and plug the 1/2 inch whole as stated in the Racing Beat catalog. I took the precaution of running both stock and aftermarket temp gauges and they both read diffrent. Of course I am aware of Mazda's stock gauge pretty much reading cold, normal, you fried it ....please insert new engine kind of gauges... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 22 2005, 10:31 PM']Yah Im all for NEW ideas, not something every 16 y/o has done to their first car. The TB mod is great too, btw how much more power did that give you? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

When I had my turbo 6 I gave a **** about doing the TB mod because it cooled my charge temps a bit, whats your reason? I was turnin wrenches on cars when you were on your moms tit, if all you can do is tell me to knit something Im done acknowledging your ignorance.


[/quote]



i never did the tb mod, and the purpose of that mod is not power but throttle response. youre 5 years older than me, and im not even sure i was breast fed.



you never answered if the temp of the top of the rad. being 174 (obviously more and over 180 at the wp) is ok, after all the only issue you pointed out that was a problem with removing the tstat was that it would be running cooler than the engineers designed it to.



[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:38 AM']1revnrex I now understand your frustration with this person. Shane have you even read through and understood what I explained on my earlier post. How are you going to get an accurate read of your engine temperatures from the top of the radiator. That's the whole reason why the factory temperature sensor is placed right at the exit of the waterpump, to get an accurate reading of ENGINE temperature. And trust me son I've been building rotary engines for well over a decade. You can run without a thermostat that's fine but you need to plug that 1/2in hole. Trust me on that one. There are no if's, and's or but's about it. This will be my last post on this topic whether you believe me or not is not of any concern to me. I just hope others read what I have written and don't go pulling out there thermostats for no apparent reason. If you are so concerned of your cooling system not opening or not cooling enough buy a larger radiator or get a thermostat that opens at 160 degrees, they do sell them. I have a Griffin radiator dual core and the runners are 1.5in each yes it's 3in thick and over kill but my motor will never overheat. It's a highly modified 13brew turbo that is going to be running close to 30psi boost pressures and heat will be a major problem but not for me and yes I still run a THERMOSTAT on it.


[/quote]



i know that the reading that i got at the top of the radiator will be a little off, but not that much with the car sitting still. i wasnt looking for an exact engine temp, i just wanted to see how close it was to the 180 figure that 1revnrex said, and with the temps at the top of the rad being that high im sure youll agree that the engine temps will be over 180.



according to what i believe you said, the only problem that not plugging that hole will cause is maybe an inaccurate reading on the temp gauge. if thats the case im not worried about it bc the gauge is working and seems to be pretty accurate. if im wrong please correct me.

according to what i believe you said, the only problem that not plugging that hole will cause is maybe an inaccurate reading on the temp gauge. if thats the case im not worried about it bc the gauge is working and seems to be pretty accurate. if im wrong please correct me.


[/quote]



Yes an inaccurate reading due to the cooler coolant getting pushed up through the hole from the pressure side of the water pump. So your actual engine temperature, inside your engine, is hotter than what is being read by the sensor. Like I stated before when the thermostat is closed it forces the hot coolant back down that hole but if that hole is left open all the time than that cooler coolant coming from the radiator is being forced up that hole and not getting into your engine to cool things off. Your readings will be inaccurate and your engine temperatures will be elevated without you knowing. Essentially you are frying your motor because the cooling system is not working properly.

[quote name='jgarza77' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:16 AM']I've been trying to get a 160 thermostat for my 1st gen but have only found 180 at local parts stores, where could I purchase a 160? Cuz I'd buy a few. I too live in Texas and have had problems with engine running a bit warm. Removed the 195 stat and replaced with the 180, even tried the remove the stat and plug the 1/2 inch whole as stated in the Racing Beat catalog. I took the precaution of running both stock and aftermarket temp gauges and they both read diffrent. Of course I am aware of Mazda's stock gauge pretty much reading cold, normal, you fried it ....please insert new engine kind of gauges... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif


[/quote]



You have to order it online http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=133&ptset=A Personally to get rid of the heat problem I would go with a larger radiator. The biggest one you can fit rotary's hate heat and the better you can control that heat the better it will run and be more efficient.

[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 09:37 AM']Yes an inaccurate reading due to the cooler coolant getting pushed up through the hole from the pressure side of the water pump. So your actual engine temperature, inside your engine, is hotter than what is being read by the sensor. Like I stated before when the thermostat is closed it forces the hot coolant back down that hole but if that hole is left open all the time than that cooler coolant coming from the radiator is being forced up that hole and not getting into your engine to cool things off. Your readings will be inaccurate and your engine temperatures will be elevated without you knowing. Essentially you are frying your motor because the cooling system is not working properly.


[/quote]





now thats what i wanted to hear... back in it goes.



oh and thanks for sticking with me through my ignorance on this subject.

[quote name='13BTNOS' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:40 AM']You have to order it online http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=133&ptset=A Personally to get rid of the heat problem I would go with a larger radiator. The biggest one you can fit rotary's hate heat and the better you can control that heat the better it will run and be more efficient.


[/quote]

THANKS!!! Just ordered a couple, I appreciate your help.

[quote name='Shane.Trammell' date='Jun 23 2005, 08:56 AM']now thats what i wanted to hear... back in it goes.



oh and thanks for sticking with me through my ignorance on this subject.


[/quote]



No worrys Shane.

[quote name='jgarza77' date='Jun 23 2005, 09:11 AM']THANKS!!! Just ordered a couple, I appreciate your help.


[/quote]



Glad I could help you out.

Jesus h christ, how in the hell is bypassing a coolant hose attached to the TB going to increase throttle response tell me please!! You ever heard of a phenolic spacer? Do you even know what they are used for? The whole idea of the TB mod is to keep heat AWAY from your INTAKE! Now with you having a stock motor and all I dont see what benefits your expecting to get from doing all of these Mickey Mouse mods but whatever its your time and your busted knuckles. And for the record 5 years is a long time as far as experience goes and seeing as I am studying for my ASE certification right now and you are jockeying a bank register maybe you should sit back and look/listen a lil bit. I dont care how many posts you have or how long you have been a member on NP, that doesnt mean **** to me. If you wanna talk about useless "mods" to do to your car Im sure that the Club has probably got a FAQ sheet just full of them. Good Day.

[quote name='1revnrex' date='Jun 23 2005, 10:49 AM']Jesus h christ, how in the hell is bypassing a coolant hose attached to the TB going to increase throttle response tell me please!! You ever heard of a phenolic spacer? Do you even know what they are used for? The whole idea of the TB mod is to keep heat AWAY from your INTAKE! Now with you having a stock motor and all I dont see what benefits your expecting to get from doing all of these Mickey Mouse mods but whatever its your time and your busted knuckles. And for the record 5 years is a long time as far as experience goes and seeing as I am studying for my ASE certification right now and you are jockeying a bank register maybe you should sit back and look/listen a lil bit. I dont care how many posts you have or how long you have been a member on NP, that doesnt mean **** to me. If you wanna talk about useless "mods" to do to your car Im sure that the Club has probably got a FAQ sheet just full of them. Good Day.


[/quote]





the whole idea of the throttle body mod is to clean up the tb and get rid of the secondary throttle. getting rid of the coolant and the thermowax is just a small added benefit that probably doesnt help much if at all. but there has been a lot of good feedback from people who have done the tb mod and they say it works, i guess they are all just imagining? thats like saying dlidfis is worthless, even though everyone who has done it has been satisfied. i dont know why you brought up the phenolic spacer, oh thats right you thought the tb mod was to cool the tb. i seriously doubt that a spacer is going to keep temps down very much with the engine only about 4 inches away. the ambient temp is high enough to heat the tb up on its own.



oh and youre really stunning me with your "studying for my ASE certification," im sure they teach a lot about rotaries and modifying them.