NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum (https://www.nopistons.com/)
-   1st Generation Specific (https://www.nopistons.com/1st-generation-specific-16/)
-   -   First Gen Starting Problem (https://www.nopistons.com/1st-generation-specific-16/first-gen-starting-problem-858/)

falcoln 12-10-2001 03:49 PM

Hello again,



I'm having yet more problems...fixed my overheating problem by replacing the thermostat hooked up to the radiator...but now I'm having starting problems...my engine is turning over but it doesn't want to start...and I hear a click noise every once in a while while I'm cranking her...almost sounds like someone banging metal...



I got my car started earlier...took her on about a 10-15 mile stretch after warmup...pulled back in...and turned her off

tried to start her back up and all she did was crank...no start



I know she's not flooded...could it be my starter or battery possibly?

My dad has dismissed the idea of my starter because it is still turning my motor over...but I havn't yet



Any ideas would be appreciated



thanks...Adam

JaySpec7 12-10-2001 03:54 PM

Check you plugs first...

phinsup 12-10-2001 03:59 PM

LOL, I was posting while the topic was moving.



Pull a spark plug, turn it over and see if you are getting spark. If you are then check and make sure you are getting fuel. Does it sound like it is barely turning over or is cranking as it should just not starting?



When you do actually get it running do you notice anything abnormal or do all systems seem to be normal?

falcoln 12-10-2001 04:57 PM

yea...that had me baffled for a second...lol

couldn't figure how why it wouldn't let me post...



I sent this to you...but I'll post it here too just incase someone else knows what exactly is wrong



My engine is cranking as usual I think...sounds normal anyway...just doesn't want to start

It keeps almost starting and if I want it to start I have to give it gas once it begins to...or it dies

once she is warm she idles fine...took her out on the road and gave her the ole lead foot...no hesitation or anything



The only thing abnormal is that my front wipers are not working...not sure why that is tho...perhaps a fuse?



thanks...adam

phinsup 12-10-2001 05:10 PM

Honestly it sounds a little like when my coild packs went TU on my 12A, but I would suggest finding the issue before replacing parts. I would check for spark, make sure you've got a good clean spark and good plugs, then check for fuel. Has been sitting or anything or did this just start?

falcoln 12-10-2001 06:59 PM

I was getting a good spark not too long ago...but I guess I can always check again...A few weeks ago my car started starting funny...It would only start on one rotor...and run that way for 10 seconds to 30 seconds...then go ahead and fire up



I'm sure I'm getting PLENTY of fuel...I can certainly smell it...hehe...its not flooded tho...I'm sure...specially since it started earlier today



She hasn't been setting...I drive her to school every day...until now that is

Have to take the ugly ole boinger in...gag

phinsup 12-10-2001 07:23 PM

Only one rotor was running? That's odd I would take a look at the plugs and check for spark. Honestly it is starting to sound a lot like when my coild packes went TU, but check it out and see what you've got.

rohlfr 12-10-2001 11:34 PM

How do you know its not flooded? IF you smell gas when your cranking and you don't see any on the ground, its not igniting the mixture in the chamber, its flooded. When its flooded, it will cause apparent low compression making starting very difficult as the oil is all diluted and will cause blowby and the oil to reek of gas, so check that too.



The plugs are probably fowled. Once they fowl out, you will allways have trouble starting it again with those plugs. Even if it seems to run right after its finally started, trust me, get new ones. This was apperent to me on two seperate occations, new plugs fixed the problem, started on first try every time. Also, remember to fully warm the engine before turning it off, allways! Thats the best way to avoid problems with starting. This is all too common a rotary requirement, fully warm it up if you choose to run it if for any reason. Probably be a good idea to change oil if it has been flooded, and not run often.

falcoln 12-12-2001 08:28 PM

I got my battery and alternator tested...they both showed good...alternator showed 13.8 volts on their testing thingy...so i think I'm good to go



The guy at oreillys told me to clean my battery terminals...i guess all the fluids and crap from the radiator messed it up over the last month or so...seems to be doing the trick now...I'll tell you guys if anything else goes wrong



My next trick is to figure out why my front wiper fluid motor isn't coming on...cuz I tested the motor and it is good...fuse is good too...



It's the opposite on the back...I get fluid but no wiper anymore...fuses are all good too



guess its a ghost or something



thanks for the input guys

phinsup 12-13-2001 08:56 AM

Glad you got it fixed, is the washer pump not coming on at all, but tested fine? Might be the switch.



Thanks for the update

PeterB 12-15-2001 03:55 PM

One thing I did to aid starting and increase plug life was to switch from the OE coils to Accel

Superstocks and I ditched the NGK's for Autolite "side gap" plugs(I think# 2926)Living in Maine it's gotta deal with

some extreme temp variables.If it only fired on 1 rotor,chances are either an ignitor or coils to blame.

(I'm assuming you DON'T have points...if you do,get a OE CDI setup,quick!)

Happy hunting,PeterB

mazgal 12-22-2001 04:03 PM

guys,

if its only firing on one rotor it cant be the coils as one coil is for leading spark the other for trailing. If one of the coils was on its way out you would either have leading spark on both, where upon the motor would run ok or trailing spark only on both and the motor would run like total ****, if at all.

rohlfr 12-23-2001 12:00 AM

swap your coils and see what happens.. <and make

sure they are hooked up good. Next, take a spare spark plug and hook a plug wire to it to a ground and check for spark when someone is cranking the engine. do this will all of the wires. Also make sure your distrubuter is good, check the

distrubuter's rotor connection points to see if its somehow damaged or the cap. Also see if the plug wires have good

resistance values!!!!!

Next, if that stuff doesn't help, you may need to figure out if your compression is good somehow. Mazda compression checks are not cheap. If you have a cracked apex seal it would run very rough through out the rpm, I know this happend once to me when I bought a cheap junkyard engine and it worked perfect for a week and then the apex seal broke and still ran till piece broke loose and locked the engine tight. Luckly it happened right in my driveway. Went from 2000rpm to 0rpm in a instantly!!!


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:28 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands