I've got everything wired up similar to this

Ignitor

its down toward the bottom of the page...just sub that top factory ignitor for another GM

on the right hand side I have the hot on bottom...negative on top as in the diagram

over on the left I have trailing sigal into the top ignitor...red into top...green bottom

the same for the leading ignitors that are sharing the split signal from the magnetic pickup...all the signals are running on short pieces of XLR mic cable...grouned very well at both ends...as per instructions I found on another site...I did test the cable before hand...worked great



also hooked in that bullet connector...thing...thats on the dizzy...for ac interference or whatever...everythings hot now...and grounded...unless theres something i'm overlooking



I'll hook up that factory negative back to the trailing coil tomorrow so I can get the tach again



Any idea how much different this is going to make my engine sound?...cuz it sure didn't sound like anything I've ever heard out of that thing...and i've had all sorts of misfires...one coil going the other not...all sorts of crap



Ok...looking at the GM diagram...G and W is where I hook in the signal from the magnetic pickup correct???...cuz thats how I have it right now



and I believe C goes to the coil...as...the negative??...again...i have it wired up like the diagrams on that page



I've looked at these things a million times now...and I don't think my plug wires on the dizzy are crossed or anything...I was supposed to move them all from trailing to leading correct?...to take advantage of that carbon button or something

Well...it runs...sorta

I made a good run...the thing warmed up VERY FAST...in about a quarter of the usual time actually...uhm...and it won't idle hardly at all...when it was idling after a good 2 miles it was only at around 100rpm or so...shaking the whole car...like a lug lug lug lug lug...sounds...Ok I guess



But the thing is almost impossible to start!



something isn't working...and I"m not sure what it is...but at low rpms theres a very noticible miss...higher rpms the thing flys...way faster than usual



I hooked the old negative up to the trailing coil...so i have a tach now...do I need to hook up the old neg back to the leading coils as well??



The only thing I can figure at this point is that I have a bad connection to the dizzy or something...but uhm



I don't exactly understand how this works...if my trailing is hooked into the leading of the dizzy now...doesn't that make all the plugs fire at the same time??



If I can't figure this out by lunch time I'm stripping it all out...and going back to stock ignition...I can't be without my car...and I have a really REALLY important date tomorrow https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png

alright...this is just WAY TOO MUCH WORK...so i'm stripping it back to origional...already did actually...took about 10 mins to do...bumped the key...vrooom



I'm gonna see if the auto parts store will take back the extra coil and the ignitors...then order a set of MSD Blaster 2 coils...won't be quite the same...but it should be rather close...I'm not sure if the 45K ones will cause stumbling or not tho...if they would...which I'll look into before I do this...then i'll just leave the "stock" ones from the auto store



Also found out why my coils I had before these were "hotter"...they weren't for transistor ignition...which might explain why they...uhm...exploded...but man...was I getting some good gas mileage...like 21-22 even with all of my smog junk on the engine



well...I think ima get some sleep now...havn't slept in quite a while

I'm still curious what the problem was. Weird that it ran so well at high rpms...yet not at idle. Almost like something in the timing was fuct. I'll be tackling the dlidfs project in a bit, so I'll be sure to document it well.

It's probably best that you went back to stock ignition.



Did you ever reverse the W and G wires and try again? That could have been the problem.

i thnk it was the xlr cable...wire was so freakin small...and i dont think it was getting a very good connection...for one I was having trouble crimping to it...and I don't think the cable would have lasted with all that heat...and trust me...my engine has NEVER been that hot



And actually...i'm not really sure if the leading was even firing...I think it was just trailing...and nothing else



i'm thinking the reason it was running ok at high rmps is because the engine missing was less noticible...ie...less time/space to burn the fuel



but atleast the exhaust smelled better



I'm pretty sure I had it all hooked up ok...just something wasn't making a good connection...IF the stock ignition ever goes south...I may try this again...but until then...i'm just going to slap some really freakin hot coils on it

Maybe XLR cable isn't the best thing to use. I mentioned it in the article because I figured it would be good to use due to the shielding effect. However, I've been able to get away without using it on all of the DLIDFIS installs. That's at least five so far. Maybe you could try it again without the XLR cable.



The DLIDFIS article is pretty old now. Maybe I should update it to remove the XLR info, or mention that I've never needed to use it.

DO you have any pics of you the finished product. I did the direct fire and it runs great. I never bothered with XLR wire I just used some wires from my old RX-7. I even kept that set up on TII conversion.....here is a pic for ya...

other side

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