Coils.....
#1
What voltage should my coils get when its on but not cranking?I tried my haynes manual but theres nothing about coil voltages in there.I think that my coils are getting enough juice which is beyond me because it ran one day and the next day I have no spark.My coils are only getting 9.43VDC and I have it wired for DLDFIS.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
It should be 12 volts.
When you turn the key to the ON position, the coils are getting whatever voltage is in the system; from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the coils. Try to find whatever is causing your voltage drop. It normally shouldn't be that low.
I've gotten in the habit of adding a relay whenever I do a DLIDFIS upgrade because I don't usually feel confident in the ancient stock ignition wires or the ignition switch itself. Adding a relay reduces the amp load through the ignition switch and pipes power directly from the battery to the coils and ignitors.
When you turn the key to the ON position, the coils are getting whatever voltage is in the system; from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the coils. Try to find whatever is causing your voltage drop. It normally shouldn't be that low.
I've gotten in the habit of adding a relay whenever I do a DLIDFIS upgrade because I don't usually feel confident in the ancient stock ignition wires or the ignition switch itself. Adding a relay reduces the amp load through the ignition switch and pipes power directly from the battery to the coils and ignitors.
#3
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='821481' date='May 28 2006, 11:22 AM
It should be 12 volts.
When you turn the key to the ON position, the coils are getting whatever voltage is in the system; from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the coils. Try to find whatever is causing your voltage drop. It normally shouldn't be that low.
I've gotten in the habit of adding a relay whenever I do a DLIDFIS upgrade because I don't usually feel confident in the ancient stock ignition wires or the ignition switch itself. Adding a relay reduces the amp load through the ignition switch and pipes power directly from the battery to the coils and ignitors.
#4
I was able to locate a few threads that you might find useful.
This has a nice picture of the ignitors and relay I installed in the B2000. If you look closely on the right, you can also see part of the fan relay.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...opic=42801&st=0
Here is the for sale thread detailing most aspects of the truck from before he sold it.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...pic=38120&st=0&
Some guy in Tulsa used the pics and started his own thread about DLIDFIS. Maybe you'll find it useful.
http://www.needfulthings.net/cgi-bin/ikonb...=ST;f=77;t=1511
This has a nice picture of the ignitors and relay I installed in the B2000. If you look closely on the right, you can also see part of the fan relay.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...opic=42801&st=0
Here is the for sale thread detailing most aspects of the truck from before he sold it.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...pic=38120&st=0&
Some guy in Tulsa used the pics and started his own thread about DLIDFIS. Maybe you'll find it useful.
http://www.needfulthings.net/cgi-bin/ikonb...=ST;f=77;t=1511
#5
I tried the relay today and from what my voltmeter says it looks like I might have got it to get 12vdc.I need to get 3 new coils tommorow and make sure tho.I left the key in the truck and thought I shut it off but it was on and fried all 3 of them.
#6
Well two new blaster 2 coils and getting a steady 10.7VDC at the coils while the battery is at 12.51VDC this is not making any sense but when does it with rotaries?Its been sitting for a month now with this problem which is really wierd seeing as I drove it home parked it and now problems.At lease I got 3 good weeks in this year driving a 13b as opposed to the 3 days last year.
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