I did the beeding procedure according to the Haynes manual and have lots of fluid pouring from the nipple and it still won't build up pressure.The pedal just sits there.ARG! :rant: I miss the old one now that this happens.I want to use this brand new clutch oh so badly to pull it out of the garage and store it for another 2 months.HELP!



~Luis

 

you sure the clutch master is good ? mine did that when it failed on my TII...

 

how hard would it be to a: remove it from the trans

b: hold it above the level of the Master with the bleeder hole at the very top

c: open the bleeder valve

d: have someone slowly press the clutch while holding the slave compressed

e: close bleeder valve

f: have the friend release the clutch pedal

g: repeat until no air then reinstall onto trans

 

you got me..

 

Hey Bud;

Do the Slave thing!

When I installed my motor and New Stage 1 Clutch. The first thing that failed before I even

started it was the Clutch Thing. When I pressed in on the clutch it went to the floor

and stayed there. Did the bleed doo wa did dee, and same problem.

Bought Brand New Slave for $25.00us and all was well. (NOT REBUILT)

I thought that I would also have to replace the Master also but did not have to.

99.9% of the time it's the Slave no matter what anyone else say's about

this one. Hopefully your's is not the .1% that fell into Master. If so they are $36.00us.

If you fall into this pit, just remeber to silicon the where the firewall and the master meets, or

you will get a air leak. (Past Experience).

Good Luck on this one Man!!!

Steve

sgieldon

P.S. What do you know about the Steering Wheel pulling out about 2inches when you pull out

on it. Am I Fucked on this???????

 

You hold the slave above the master?How does the bleeding work then?I thought the slave has to stay bolted to the tranny so the slave can hook up to the fork again.Mine has no airpockets in the system.I just did a simple clutch swap. :rant: Everything worked good before the swap too. :rant: Damn car.So you take the slave off and raise it above the master and bleed it that way?

 

Steve:



Steering wheel pulling out about 2"?Care to elaborate more on this?How the car running now?If I get more info on bleeding this properly seeing as the haynes way got me know where quick then I won't need a slave but if I do need a slave then I'll be stuck waiting on parts again.Damn car lately is starting to make me pull a vosko and buy,buy,buy.And I want to start a insane project next winter too. :rant: This next project will take me around 2 years to complete.I just need to find another good FB to start with this summer.

 

You hold the slave above the master?How does the bleeding work then?I thought the slave has to stay bolted to the tranny so the slave can hook up to the fork again.Mine has no airpockets in the system.I just did a simple clutch swap. :rant: Everything worked good before the swap too. :rant: Damn car.So you take the slave off and raise it above the master and bleed it that way? [/quote]

Wheres mike when you need a question answered?

 

the reason for holding the slave above the master (Freudian slip?) is that

air rises. you want to pump the air out, so that is why you need the slave

higher than the slave.



you can also try attatching a hose to the outlet of the slave, the other end in

a half full cup of brake fluid.



when you open the bleeder valve, have someone pump the pedal until no

more bubbles in the cup.



BTW, does the clutch fork have free movement? and is the slave fully

depressed (collapsed)?

 

ive never had to bleed my clutch by unbolting the slave?



mike