I did the beeding procedure according to the Haynes manual and have lots of fluid pouring from the nipple and it still won't build up pressure.The pedal just sits there.ARG! :rant: I miss the old one now that this happens.I want to use this brand new clutch oh so badly to pull it out of the garage and store it for another 2 months.HELP!



~Luis

you sure the clutch master is good ? mine did that when it failed on my TII...

how hard would it be to a: remove it from the trans

b: hold it above the level of the Master with the bleeder hole at the very top

c: open the bleeder valve

d: have someone slowly press the clutch while holding the slave compressed

e: close bleeder valve

f: have the friend release the clutch pedal

g: repeat until no air then reinstall onto trans

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png you got me..

Hey Bud;

Do the Slave thing!

When I installed my motor and New Stage 1 Clutch. The first thing that failed before I even

started it was the Clutch Thing. When I pressed in on the clutch it went to the floor

and stayed there. Did the bleed doo wa did dee, and same problem.

Bought Brand New Slave for $25.00us and all was well. (NOT REBUILT)

I thought that I would also have to replace the Master also but did not have to.

99.9% of the time it's the Slave no matter what anyone else say's about

this one. Hopefully your's is not the .1% that fell into Master. If so they are $36.00us.

If you fall into this pit, just remeber to silicon the where the firewall and the master meets, or

you will get a air leak. (Past Experience).

Good Luck on this one Man!!!

Steve

sgieldon

P.S. What do you know about the Steering Wheel pulling out about 2inches when you pull out

on it. Am I Fucked on this???????

You hold the slave above the master?How does the bleeding work then?I thought the slave has to stay bolted to the tranny so the slave can hook up to the fork again.Mine has no airpockets in the system.I just did a simple clutch swap. :rant: Everything worked good before the swap too. :rant: Damn car.So you take the slave off and raise it above the master and bleed it that way?

Steve:



Steering wheel pulling out about 2"?Care to elaborate more on this?How the car running now?If I get more info on bleeding this properly seeing as the haynes way got me know where quick then I won't need a slave but if I do need a slave then I'll be stuck waiting on parts again.Damn car lately is starting to make me pull a vosko and buy,buy,buy.And I want to start a insane project next winter too. :rant: This next project will take me around 2 years to complete.I just need to find another good FB to start with this summer.

You hold the slave above the master?How does the bleeding work then?I thought the slave has to stay bolted to the tranny so the slave can hook up to the fork again.Mine has no airpockets in the system.I just did a simple clutch swap. :rant: Everything worked good before the swap too. :rant: Damn car.So you take the slave off and raise it above the master and bleed it that way? [/quote]

Wheres mike when you need a question answered? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

the reason for holding the slave above the master (Freudian slip?) is that

air rises. you want to pump the air out, so that is why you need the slave

higher than the slave.



you can also try attatching a hose to the outlet of the slave, the other end in

a half full cup of brake fluid.



when you open the bleeder valve, have someone pump the pedal until no

more bubbles in the cup.



BTW, does the clutch fork have free movement? and is the slave fully

depressed (collapsed)?

ive never had to bleed my clutch by unbolting the slave?



mike

Yeah the fork has free movement.If I pull the slave off and bleed it that way will the slave slide back into the fork?

:redface: I guess I'm not able to adequately describe a procedure I have used

with success on other cars https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif .



edit: leave the slave on the car



try: open bleeder, have friend step on pedal. (slowly)

close bleeder, have friend pull up pedal from floor.

have friend slowly pump pedal to see if pressure.



no pressure, repeate open/push/close/pull.

small pressure, repeate ...

lots of pressure :bigok:

I did that yesterday with no luck.Thanks for the help tho.

I'll have to try running a hose to the bleeder then to a bottle of fluid I guess then. :rant:

I wish I could help more.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

While we are on this subject, my 7 is supposed to have a new clutch, but under spirited driving the clutch really slips when going to 2nd and 3rd and 4th. It doesn't ever really slip when in 1st though. The previous owner says it is a new clutch, but the throw out bearing was reused. I checked the adjustment that Haynes recommends and it is off a little. It is 1/4 inch closer to the firewall than Haynes says it should be. Do you think that is my problem?

Luis:

I guess you found some of my Gremlins hanging around your garage also.

Drove the Bad Ass for a couple of hours yesterday, and I think I've got everything

adjusted correctly. I hope that it last till the next time I start it. Man this Machine is

FAASSTT.

I went through a full tank of gas in 120 miles. That really Sucks. But I guess thats the

price of Speed!!!



Getting to the steering problem. I can pull the Wheel & Shaft out about 2''s from the column

and back again. Make any sense to ya? I've read that I may have to replace the whole gear

box. $540.00 from Mazdatrix. It doesn't seem to being hurting anything, just makes me a

little nervous. Ever heard of any cure for this one???

steve

sgieldon



P.S. Hows the Clutch delema going?

thats what i do, to bleed it



mike

the steering column is a 2 piece unit, so when you crash the car it collapses. there is a little plastic pin that keeps it in place, yours broke the pin, i am not sure where the pin is but i think you can get to it



mike

As always Mike is right.

There is a little plastic tab that holds the steering wheel/shaft from moving in and out. The tab is there so when you crash the car the two piece steering column/shaft won't jab you in the head or chest. This is really easy to break if you try to take the steering wheel off. To fix you have to remove the whole steering column assy so you can get at the steering shaft. Once you get the column out you will see the little broken plastic tab/pin. To fix this on my 83 I just drilled/tapped and put in two set screws.

It's kind of hard to explain, more of a visual thing I guess.

Yeah those pesky gremlins.Mike has your answer at least.But wouldn't that mean your car was in a wreck or just the pin broke?I can't wait for my NOS to get here.The guy is sending it out monday.Begining of febuary I'll be running it direct port. :squint: Hondas beware.

If there is fluid comming from the nipple then you either A) didn't tighten it enough or B) have some junk on the face of the seat where the bleeder seals. Either way if you have fluid comming out of the bleeder it's not going to push the clutch fork.

If there is fluid comming from the nipple then you either A) didn't tighten it enough or B) have some junk on the face of the seat where the bleeder seals. Either way if you have fluid comming out of the bleeder it's not going to push the clutch fork. [/quote]

I should have worded that better.With the nipple open fluid pours out.With it closed the pedal doesn't build up pressure.Can't figure it out.I'll try bleeding it again here soon. :rant:

hmm, sounds like you have a bad seal either in the master or the slave then.

I hope not.It worked awesome before the clutch change.I'll try bleeding it and see what happens.

Mike;

Thanks for the Info on the Steering Wheel.

The car was stolen at one point in it's life and I'll bet the thief screwed up

the column. The ignition key is different from the doors, so i'm sure that

it was replaced after the fact.

Anyhow this will be a spring project since the alignment shop said that it

was never in a front ender & won't hurt anything or cause loss of control.

Just one more thing to Irritate Me.

Thanks Again

steve https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

yah, ive heard about it happening when you change steering wheels



mike

That happens when people who are unaware of how fragile the columns are decide to hit the steering wheel with a hammer to get it off the shaft rather than using a steering wheel puller. :smirk:

Hey drifter.I see you're a supporter now?Don't you need that money for your car? BTW I guess I have to order another slave.I tried bleeding it again and still no pressure! :rant: How is it possible for a slave to die just by changing a clutch?It worked good before. :rant:

Slave ordered.$70 cdn should be in tommorow.Can't wait.This better work.I never seen a part die like this from a simple clutch swap.I'll keep you guys posted on the this BS clutch swap.

have you tried pumping the sh*t out of it by hand (hand on pedal) with bleeder

closed?



another thing to try, before removing the hose, is to pump the slave by hand

(unbolted from trans of course)



just a thought....

I'm a "hands on" kinda guy :bigok:

I tried that yesterday.Still no response.Doesn't make sense but the new slave should be hear tommorow afternoon.So I will have this clutch fixed tommorow with luck.I hope anyways.Thanks for the help tho.



~Luis

hahahaha.I needed a good laugh.Cars been pissing me off for awhile now. :bigthumg:

I do remember another thing from class...



because of the properties of brake fluid, your slave may have corrosion in the

area that the new clutch puts the rubber "cup" that the brake fluid pushes against.

Causing a loss of pressure. But I would think that you would see fluid coming from

the seal...



by properties I mean it's hydroscopic (it attracts and holds water in it).



thats why you need to completely change your brake fluid in A.B.S systems every

4-5 years.(keeps solenoids from rusting up and failing when you're trying to avoid

hitting grandma who just walked into the street!)



sorry, I'll shut up now :redface:

I remember that too from mechanics class.I'll try the new slave and take it from there.Hopefully it works if not oh well.One less part to replace.

I hear that!



let us know

Yeah, I found $50 on the ground at work and I figured that I hav got heaps of good info from these forums, so it was time to put back. Y'know, Karma and ****. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Kool,That was nice of you.Yeah I'll give out more info after I install a slave tommorow.

Good Luck on the Slave today;

Like I stated before, I also upgraded my Clutch when I put this Machine back together last month and the same bullshit happened to me.



I think what happens is that the New Clutch puts alot more back pressure on the old slave and it may may not be able to handle it???

Hell I could be wrong, but I went through all the same steps that you have done and finally gave up and bought a new one. Instant Fix.

I hope the same results will come your way.



steve https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif