Close to buying, need some input
10-12-2007, 08:06 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 56
Ordered some parts..
1) 1 15-5110-N304 HOSE UPPER RAD $18.99 $18.99
2) 1 15-521B-N304 HOSE LOWER RAD $16.10 $16.10
3) 1 61-2120-8871 HOSE HEATER $12.13 $12.13
4) 1 61-213A-FA42 HOSE HEATER $15.74 $15.74
5) 1 61-2300-8871 HOSE HEATER $48.58 $48.58
6) 1 13-208A-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $18.79 $18.79
7) 1 13-2090-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $15.73 $15.73
8) 1 43-0420-FA01 PEDAL PAD $5.19 $5.19
9) 1 41-711A-FA54 PEDAL PAD GAS $11.34 $11.34
10) 2 43-0280-S083 PEDAL PAD $5.67 $11.34
11) 2 4709 SHOCK HATCH $41.78 $83.56
12) 2 58-3030-8116-12 DOOR HANDLE COVER $6.70 $13.40< /TD>
13) 1 10-4040-HE03 OIL DRAIN PLUG $3.07 $3.07
14) 1 41-4000-9956 OIL DRAIN PLUG WASHR $1.29 $1.29
15) 1 15-2050-SE01 RADIATOR CAP $12.13 $12.13
16) 1 23-6720-N236 FILTER AIR $17.61 $17.61
17) 2 32-329B-1524 BUSHING IDLER ARM $6.78 $13.56
18) 2 40717 WIPER BLADE $9.92 $19.84
19) 1 50-7020-9971 CLIP HOOD ROD $3.72 $3.72
20) 1 42-250B-8871 CAP GAS $9.83 $9.83
More updates:
I found an old pulsation dampener in the box iof junk that came with the car. I checked the current one, saw no leaks. I dont smell fuel as much, it might have been that the car wasn't driven much in the last year. It seems my gas cap just doesnt get tight enough. I think it was replaced once and nothing is bent. But it just doesnt get real tight. I got another one on order to test.
Cleaned out lot of stuff under the hatch. The jack was there in its proper place but the tools were all loose. No wonder I've been hearing so much noise. I disconnected the wire from the auto antenna since its not even used anymore. Everytime I turned the radio on and off I would hear the motor running. I guess the last owner was too lazy to remove it also. I'll research and find how to remove it from underneath at some point.
All my rear panels have no screws, so I'll be out buying a lot of new screws today. Nothing looks wrong with the panels, I'll just reattach them. Found out I have no rear speakers and the wires were exposed. I taped them up for now.
I need to buy some tiny screws for my rear view mirror until I get a new one. The rear view mirror part itself has 3 snap tabs that go into the rear mirror housing. 2 of the tabs are broke. I can fix it temporarily by buying two tiny bolts to go thru some tiny holes on each side. It will hold it together. The light difusser that is the rear mirror housing cover also has broke tabs, I'll have to get one.
The plastic in my drivers side visor is cracked, so it's loose. Another thing on the list to try and find someday if this car turns out to be a keeper.
The radiator hoses and heater hoses are original so I'll be replacing those asap. Also the other 2-3 water hoses while I have it drained. I wasn't planning on doing the thermostat as I have no issues, but maybe I should.
When I get deep into the project, some of my wish list:
rear hatch seal
new door seals
sunroof seal
new shift boot w plate
upper window seals under the top moulding
Todays work is done.
Fixed my rear view mirror without having to get a new one. Drilled holes in the mounting plate and used tiny screw and nut to hold the rear view mirror to the mounting plate and light. Cost: $1.50 in screws.
Removed my power antenna, it was unbelievably difficult to get it out that tiny hole near rear hatch. Turns out the previous owner had a rubber antenna just bolted to the broken power antenna stud. I will still use a rubber one, but I'll do it properly. I dont know if anyone buys those used OEM antennas, but the motor on mine still works, as I heard it running every day.
Bought sheet metal screws for all my back panels, screwed down every hole. Took out my spare tire, I'm missing the hold down bolt. I'll research on the bolt size and probably use something universal. Cuz I don't like the big sagging hole in my rear hatch.
Not much else to do now until my big parts order arrives. Maybe a wax, but its pouring rain right now.
PS, the oil leak has not come back yet. Total cost was $1 for 1 couple o-rings.
1) 1 15-5110-N304 HOSE UPPER RAD $18.99 $18.99
2) 1 15-521B-N304 HOSE LOWER RAD $16.10 $16.10
3) 1 61-2120-8871 HOSE HEATER $12.13 $12.13
4) 1 61-213A-FA42 HOSE HEATER $15.74 $15.74
5) 1 61-2300-8871 HOSE HEATER $48.58 $48.58
6) 1 13-208A-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $18.79 $18.79
7) 1 13-2090-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $15.73 $15.73
8) 1 43-0420-FA01 PEDAL PAD $5.19 $5.19
9) 1 41-711A-FA54 PEDAL PAD GAS $11.34 $11.34
10) 2 43-0280-S083 PEDAL PAD $5.67 $11.34
11) 2 4709 SHOCK HATCH $41.78 $83.56
12) 2 58-3030-8116-12 DOOR HANDLE COVER $6.70 $13.40< /TD>
13) 1 10-4040-HE03 OIL DRAIN PLUG $3.07 $3.07
14) 1 41-4000-9956 OIL DRAIN PLUG WASHR $1.29 $1.29
15) 1 15-2050-SE01 RADIATOR CAP $12.13 $12.13
16) 1 23-6720-N236 FILTER AIR $17.61 $17.61
17) 2 32-329B-1524 BUSHING IDLER ARM $6.78 $13.56
18) 2 40717 WIPER BLADE $9.92 $19.84
19) 1 50-7020-9971 CLIP HOOD ROD $3.72 $3.72
20) 1 42-250B-8871 CAP GAS $9.83 $9.83
More updates:
I found an old pulsation dampener in the box iof junk that came with the car. I checked the current one, saw no leaks. I dont smell fuel as much, it might have been that the car wasn't driven much in the last year. It seems my gas cap just doesnt get tight enough. I think it was replaced once and nothing is bent. But it just doesnt get real tight. I got another one on order to test.
Cleaned out lot of stuff under the hatch. The jack was there in its proper place but the tools were all loose. No wonder I've been hearing so much noise. I disconnected the wire from the auto antenna since its not even used anymore. Everytime I turned the radio on and off I would hear the motor running. I guess the last owner was too lazy to remove it also. I'll research and find how to remove it from underneath at some point.
All my rear panels have no screws, so I'll be out buying a lot of new screws today. Nothing looks wrong with the panels, I'll just reattach them. Found out I have no rear speakers and the wires were exposed. I taped them up for now.
I need to buy some tiny screws for my rear view mirror until I get a new one. The rear view mirror part itself has 3 snap tabs that go into the rear mirror housing. 2 of the tabs are broke. I can fix it temporarily by buying two tiny bolts to go thru some tiny holes on each side. It will hold it together. The light difusser that is the rear mirror housing cover also has broke tabs, I'll have to get one.
The plastic in my drivers side visor is cracked, so it's loose. Another thing on the list to try and find someday if this car turns out to be a keeper.
The radiator hoses and heater hoses are original so I'll be replacing those asap. Also the other 2-3 water hoses while I have it drained. I wasn't planning on doing the thermostat as I have no issues, but maybe I should.
When I get deep into the project, some of my wish list:
rear hatch seal
new door seals
sunroof seal
new shift boot w plate
upper window seals under the top moulding
Todays work is done.
Fixed my rear view mirror without having to get a new one. Drilled holes in the mounting plate and used tiny screw and nut to hold the rear view mirror to the mounting plate and light. Cost: $1.50 in screws.
Removed my power antenna, it was unbelievably difficult to get it out that tiny hole near rear hatch. Turns out the previous owner had a rubber antenna just bolted to the broken power antenna stud. I will still use a rubber one, but I'll do it properly. I dont know if anyone buys those used OEM antennas, but the motor on mine still works, as I heard it running every day.
Bought sheet metal screws for all my back panels, screwed down every hole. Took out my spare tire, I'm missing the hold down bolt. I'll research on the bolt size and probably use something universal. Cuz I don't like the big sagging hole in my rear hatch.
Not much else to do now until my big parts order arrives. Maybe a wax, but its pouring rain right now.
PS, the oil leak has not come back yet. Total cost was $1 for 1 couple o-rings.
10-14-2007, 06:01 PM
#23
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 56
Passenger side window adjustment work.
These are the most simple door internals I have worked on in a while. I can make a video about it if anyone needs to see what that area looks like.
Problem:
My passenger side window doesn't seem to seal up in the top section, so I started the investigation.
(Remove your door panel first, 3-4 screws, then pop out the bottom.)
First step, disconnect your window from the regulator:
This is two screws into the bottom of the window. The screws go into two white clips that slide over the bottom of the window. Both screws were still surprisingly tight. So after disconnecting, you pull the window up by hand to the top, and slide a screwdriver (wrapped in a rag) along side it to hold it. Be careful not to scratch your window.
Second step, remove your window regulator:
Now with the window out of the way you can work on your regulator. The regulator is held in with 8 bolts. 6 towards the front of the door and 2 in the rear of door. The regulator comes out easily through the bottom hole, just go slow.
Third step, evaluation:
All my regulators moving parts were a bit dry, but not terrible. So I lubed up all the rollers and sliders and put it back in. It didnt increase the SPEED of the window much at all.
I then found another issue:
My window "runner" was all flattened in some spots, thus messing up the window travel. It had been that way so long is was permanent. I have ordered both inner and outer window moldings, and also a new window runner. The moldings were ok, but since I had it apart.. might as well. I also ordered some new door panel clips and the rubber sockets for them. After seeing how much regulators are, and considering mine still works.. I didn't order that part.
The bigger problem:
My window doesnt seem to be straight as it rolls up. The front part always seems to hang low. So the back of the window hits the top and the front has a 1/8" gap still. I don't see much adjustment available to fix this, as my regulator isn't very loose. I did see the front runner adjustment bolt, but its already all the way towards rear. Still, my front of the window isnt high enough.
Questions:
I will be searching about all this next, but if anyone has input:
Are the electric windows notoriously slow? Mine is steady, but seems a tad slow. Its not an issue of the regulator sticking as far as I know. I recall something about enlarging an adjustment slot somewhere, I'll check into that also.
I ordered these parts for this project:
1) 1 58-605C-8871 WINDOW CHANNEL $53.09 $53.09
2) 1 58-7910-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.84 $18.84
3) 1 58-7810-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.29 $18.29
4) 2 68-4210-FA56-11 DOOR LOCK TRIM $5.80 $11.60
5) 2 72-5020-8544 WINDOW GROMMET $4.53 $9.06
6) 3 58-9210-0208 DOOR PANEL CLIP $0.88 $2.64
7) 8 58-9220-0187 DOOR PANEL CLIP $1.95 $15.60
Total: $129.12
These are the most simple door internals I have worked on in a while. I can make a video about it if anyone needs to see what that area looks like.
Problem:
My passenger side window doesn't seem to seal up in the top section, so I started the investigation.
(Remove your door panel first, 3-4 screws, then pop out the bottom.)
First step, disconnect your window from the regulator:
This is two screws into the bottom of the window. The screws go into two white clips that slide over the bottom of the window. Both screws were still surprisingly tight. So after disconnecting, you pull the window up by hand to the top, and slide a screwdriver (wrapped in a rag) along side it to hold it. Be careful not to scratch your window.
Second step, remove your window regulator:
Now with the window out of the way you can work on your regulator. The regulator is held in with 8 bolts. 6 towards the front of the door and 2 in the rear of door. The regulator comes out easily through the bottom hole, just go slow.
Third step, evaluation:
All my regulators moving parts were a bit dry, but not terrible. So I lubed up all the rollers and sliders and put it back in. It didnt increase the SPEED of the window much at all.
I then found another issue:
My window "runner" was all flattened in some spots, thus messing up the window travel. It had been that way so long is was permanent. I have ordered both inner and outer window moldings, and also a new window runner. The moldings were ok, but since I had it apart.. might as well. I also ordered some new door panel clips and the rubber sockets for them. After seeing how much regulators are, and considering mine still works.. I didn't order that part.
The bigger problem:
My window doesnt seem to be straight as it rolls up. The front part always seems to hang low. So the back of the window hits the top and the front has a 1/8" gap still. I don't see much adjustment available to fix this, as my regulator isn't very loose. I did see the front runner adjustment bolt, but its already all the way towards rear. Still, my front of the window isnt high enough.
Questions:
I will be searching about all this next, but if anyone has input:
Are the electric windows notoriously slow? Mine is steady, but seems a tad slow. Its not an issue of the regulator sticking as far as I know. I recall something about enlarging an adjustment slot somewhere, I'll check into that also.
I ordered these parts for this project:
1) 1 58-605C-8871 WINDOW CHANNEL $53.09 $53.09
2) 1 58-7910-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.84 $18.84
3) 1 58-7810-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.29 $18.29
4) 2 68-4210-FA56-11 DOOR LOCK TRIM $5.80 $11.60
5) 2 72-5020-8544 WINDOW GROMMET $4.53 $9.06
6) 3 58-9210-0208 DOOR PANEL CLIP $0.88 $2.64
7) 8 58-9220-0187 DOOR PANEL CLIP $1.95 $15.60
Total: $129.12
10-15-2007, 01:42 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
yep greasing up the regulator is good. the adjustment of the window/door is by the 2 slotted holes in the back
2. these windows just arent that fast, but the grease does dry out on the regulator, and the power window SWITCH contacts do get dirty. they are super easy to pop apart, and a pencil eraser, or just about anything will clean em off, and the windows will speed up
3. the rubber run channel's important, i like to lube em once in a while too
its kinda funny, but you're doing the same things we used to do after buying one of these...
1. buy car
2. drive car home
3. rip doors apart, relube windows, dye door panels red.
4. repaint windsheild trim black
5. repaint wiper arms
2. these windows just arent that fast, but the grease does dry out on the regulator, and the power window SWITCH contacts do get dirty. they are super easy to pop apart, and a pencil eraser, or just about anything will clean em off, and the windows will speed up
3. the rubber run channel's important, i like to lube em once in a while too
its kinda funny, but you're doing the same things we used to do after buying one of these...
1. buy car
2. drive car home
3. rip doors apart, relube windows, dye door panels red.
4. repaint windsheild trim black
5. repaint wiper arms
10-15-2007, 08:39 PM
#25
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 56
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='885480' date='Oct 15 2007, 11:42 AM
its kinda funny, but you're doing the same things we used to do after buying one of these...
1. buy car
2. drive car home
3. rip doors apart, relube windows, dye door panels red.
4. repaint windsheild trim black
5. repaint wiper arms
1. buy car
2. drive car home
3. rip doors apart, relube windows, dye door panels red.
4. repaint windsheild trim black
5. repaint wiper arms
LOL.. I've thought about painting my windhseild trim. I already have the entire top section off while I wait for some seals. But, my paint is crap, so i decided to just leave them speckled. Also, I dont want to remove the side and bottom moldings if i dont have to. I dont even know how to put the top one back on. I ordered new clips also, and I'll just have to figure it out.
Suppose I could do the wiper arms if I get real bored..
Lot of my interior is brown now.. instead of red.. I've thought about trying to restore it a bit.
10-16-2007, 11:37 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
interior is pretty easy to redye, and it makes it look 1000% percent better
wiper arms too, but its like a pet peeve of mine
window trim is kinda optional, it takes a lot of time to pull it off and paint it, and usually its not too bad anyways
wiper arms too, but its like a pet peeve of mine
window trim is kinda optional, it takes a lot of time to pull it off and paint it, and usually its not too bad anyways
10-18-2007, 12:54 AM
#27
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 56
Well.. my passenger window work went CRAPPY... I installed my new runner, and inner/outer moldings. Sure, theyre tight against the window.. I also installed new white clips which hold the window to the regulator. I also redrilled my front runner adjustment backward like everyone else..
But my window still doesnt go up straight.. only thing left is a worn out regulator..
But my window still doesnt go up straight.. only thing left is a worn out regulator..
10-18-2007, 05:35 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 56
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='885721' date='Oct 18 2007, 08:11 AM
yep, you can buy the regulator seperate from the motor. with motor its like $400, without motor its under $100
Ordered a new regulator for above.. ($192 without motor) .. just have to try the last part. If it still doesnt work I give up on that job and I'll unplug the window power.
Today:
I installed my winsheild upper molding back with the new weatherstrip attached. The weatherstrip sticks to the molding itself and costs about $15. (2 req for car). My weathstrip was gone, and there was a big hole there. I learned how to attach the molding snappers, and that the window seal itself can sometimes get in the way of the snappers seating properly. My molding is now back and snapped tight, with a nice weatherstrip back in place between the roof and molding.
It was a minor detail, but really stood out and looked crappy. Glad its fixed.
10-22-2007, 05:24 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 56
The passenger side new regulator worked! My window is now perfect. I had to move back my front runner to the stock bolt hole to get it to work properly. Now that whole door is done. I just have to let the window runner break in a bit.