Close to buying, need some input. I have went to see this car twice now.



http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/car/434924363.html - $3200



He has said he will go as low as $2500 firm, but I didn't take it today. I just got back from my second viewing.



Positives:

-Interior is the best part of the car. Very perfect, cleanest I've seen. Seats have no rips.

-Engine has really good oil pressure, about 40psi idle, over 60psi when driving.

-Clutch feels good, still lots of throw and firmness.

-Brakes claimed to be new, don't know about that, but they work fine.

-Lots of power, the more you press down on the pedal, you feel increase in acceleration

-GSL-SE model with LSD/13B engine



Negatives:

-Car has about 150k miles on it.

-Drivers seat adjustment lever is broke off, can't really adjust the seat.

-Roof seems low, probably just me. My hair hits it.

-Pieces of weatherstrip missing above the front windsheild.

-Oil leak somewhere under the oil filter location.

-One piece of side molding near rear is bowed out

-Gears very slightly grind, but not much if I'm careful



My questions:

-Are there any common oil leaks that occur somewhere around the oil filter area? If it was as simple as the oil pressure switch I'm sure he would have already replaced it.

-Is there any weatherstripping available for these cars anymore?

very poor pics...you mean the upper window trim peices are missing? If so, a junkyard will cure that. As far as the oil leak, since it doesnt have a beehive, I am not as sure where it is leaking - get under there and find out exactly where it is - probably a pretty easy fix either way. Is the headliner sagging, or is the car just smaller than expected? If the gears are grinding, that means that the syncros are going out, atleast on american transmissions - means a rebuild/swap is soon. $2300 for 150k(for a 12a, it better be a CLEAN car, but I dont know as much about the 13b)...how is the body? any wheelwell/fender/rear hatch drain area rust? Do the headlights go up/down? Is the suspension worn? A/C? Does it work? Did you notice any front seal/rear seal/oil pan leaks? Does he have any service history? If it seems like a solid car, I'd probably do it, but I dont see many 1st gen's around here...

looks nice!



just to address the negatives list...



mileage: 150k is low for an -SE, people drive these, 200k+ isnt uncommon, and we used to see 300k regularly

just the plastic? or the handle? if you find a good used adjuster unit, its 4-6 bolts to swap it out

roof is low, your head will hit it, the leather sits a little higher than the cloth

the windsheild trim, is easy to find, and if its used it needs to be repainted anyways, new is available too, although its not cheap

there is a little aluminum peice that the oil filter goes on, and 2 orings adapt it to the block, its an easy and cheap fix, the heater hose down there should be changed too, oil on a rubber hose is bad

that side moulding is right under the gas door, and the spilled gas ruins the tape, its easily retapeable, and new is also available, but $$$

could be clutch hydraulics? could be you? could be the trans? is it all the gears? just one? a little notchy is fine btw



basically all the weather stripping is still available new still, although if you pay retail its not cheap.

I dont mean the window trim. I mean the rubber seal that is next to the trim. Its gone in some places.



Whats a big concern is if i have the dowel leak. He said its been to a shop 2 times and they couldnt figure out the leak. I would buy it if i knew it wasnt the common engine block issue.



OH I made a mistake too, its 170k.... so i figure its the engine block leaking. I don't want to buy it just to find out.

http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7interior1.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7interior2.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7interior3.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7interior4.jpg

No rust, new shocks, newish tires, newish brakes, headlights work.



the whole seat adjustment handle is broke off, so i'd need to buy a new seat bottom frame for floor.



the shifting issue was probably just me. as since the seat cant be adjusted i was too far back. when i was careful it wouldnt grind.



isnt 170k time for a rebuild on the rotary? tho it had tons of power.

Not necessarily for an N/A with regular oil changes. Like j9 said, they often go 200 or 300k. If it doesn't smoke and makes good power, I wouldn't be concerned by the mileage. Heck, the car's what? 23 years old? That's really not a lot of miles.



If you're looking for a first gen RX-7, the one to get IMO is the GSL-SE. I don't see a lot of them around here anymore. Car looks nice. The little stuff you can fix.

i just cant risk the oil leak being the big one requiring engine disassembly. he said he's already had the leak looked at 2-3 times and they couldnt figure it out. that sounds bad to me. i rent my townhouse and i can't have oil leaks so i'd have to fix it.

looked at by whom? the dowel leak is usually on the 12a's, and its in the front, usually



most mechanics are scared of these cars

ahh really? mostly 12As? he just said a mechanic had tried to find the leak a couple times...



I been so close to buying it all day. But if it needs an engine (regasketed) ill be hella bummed and ill lose all my $.

I called him again to discuss the leak. He said it mainly leaks after been driven, and leaks down the side of the engine. He said it doesnt really leak when just sitting there overnight.

Virgin SE cars dont come around mutch. Flash some cash and make the deal. Calm down the solution to the leak has already be given. Like the man said, "there is a little aluminum peice that the oil filter goes on, and 2 orings adapt it to the block, its an easy and cheap fix, the heater hose down there should be changed too, oil on a rubber hose is bad." I seriously doubt the dowel leak theory. Oh great some guys said they tried to fix the leak bla bla. Just like some body els said regular mechanics dont know jack **** about rotary's. Don't sweat the mileage, Na motors run for ever especially when stock. Tranny's can be found all day here on the forum. Trus me I know I drive a 85 SE one the street daily!

[attachment=43056:HPIM0335.JPG] here she is

thats pretty clean. Thats not stock height is it?

BUT THAT'S THE GRASS! Are you suuuuure it runs ON the street? :P

Seriously though - buy it, drive it, and enjoy it. If the trans or egnine goes, you can pic up a fresh(er) block/ trans for a reasonable price and if you haven't before, a swap will be good experience. Either way, I'm sure you will get ALOT more enjoyment time out fo it than I have my GS....

Its a GSLSE! The motor will go almost forever. If you do have a leak... keep adding oil (and rinse it off occasionally so you don't start a fire!)! Usually the leaks come from the oil passage under the Mazda stamp (I agree with Mike this happens more with 12a's and don't trust the average mechanic... especially if he can't even find the leak!). I would also check the "o" rings under the oil filter (they may be seeping).

I bought the car this morning. I already have it registered and used the existing smog. I have it insured now too. Already replaced my oil pedestal o-rings. I'll clean the engine tomorrow and see how many other leaks I have around that area. How are these engines when getting them with high pressure hose? Can you screw up the electronics?

Season 3, Episode 1: Introduction



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xI77OEzNWA



Season 3, Episode 2: Oil pedestal leak



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2i_lASvv_qw

Season 3, Episode 3 - Cleanup



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd93XPe29Zg

i suppose you could get water in the distributor cap or something, never managed to actually DO it though.

dont sweat it dont soak the batt, or the coils. be conservative with the water. P.S. congrats on the ride. feel free to ask me any questions u want.

Ordered some parts..



1) 1 15-5110-N304 HOSE UPPER RAD $18.99 $18.99

2) 1 15-521B-N304 HOSE LOWER RAD $16.10 $16.10

3) 1 61-2120-8871 HOSE HEATER $12.13 $12.13

4) 1 61-213A-FA42 HOSE HEATER $15.74 $15.74

5) 1 61-2300-8871 HOSE HEATER $48.58 $48.58

6) 1 13-208A-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $18.79 $18.79

7) 1 13-2090-N304 HOSE WATER 84-85 13B $15.73 $15.73

8) 1 43-0420-FA01 PEDAL PAD $5.19 $5.19

9) 1 41-711A-FA54 PEDAL PAD GAS $11.34 $11.34

10) 2 43-0280-S083 PEDAL PAD $5.67 $11.34

11) 2 4709 SHOCK HATCH $41.78 $83.56

12) 2 58-3030-8116-12 DOOR HANDLE COVER $6.70 $13.40< /TD>

13) 1 10-4040-HE03 OIL DRAIN PLUG $3.07 $3.07

14) 1 41-4000-9956 OIL DRAIN PLUG WASHR $1.29 $1.29

15) 1 15-2050-SE01 RADIATOR CAP $12.13 $12.13

16) 1 23-6720-N236 FILTER AIR $17.61 $17.61

17) 2 32-329B-1524 BUSHING IDLER ARM $6.78 $13.56

18) 2 40717 WIPER BLADE $9.92 $19.84

19) 1 50-7020-9971 CLIP HOOD ROD $3.72 $3.72

20) 1 42-250B-8871 CAP GAS $9.83 $9.83



More updates:



I found an old pulsation dampener in the box iof junk that came with the car. I checked the current one, saw no leaks. I dont smell fuel as much, it might have been that the car wasn't driven much in the last year. It seems my gas cap just doesnt get tight enough. I think it was replaced once and nothing is bent. But it just doesnt get real tight. I got another one on order to test.



Cleaned out lot of stuff under the hatch. The jack was there in its proper place but the tools were all loose. No wonder I've been hearing so much noise. I disconnected the wire from the auto antenna since its not even used anymore. Everytime I turned the radio on and off I would hear the motor running. I guess the last owner was too lazy to remove it also. I'll research and find how to remove it from underneath at some point.



All my rear panels have no screws, so I'll be out buying a lot of new screws today. Nothing looks wrong with the panels, I'll just reattach them. Found out I have no rear speakers and the wires were exposed. I taped them up for now.



I need to buy some tiny screws for my rear view mirror until I get a new one. The rear view mirror part itself has 3 snap tabs that go into the rear mirror housing. 2 of the tabs are broke. I can fix it temporarily by buying two tiny bolts to go thru some tiny holes on each side. It will hold it together. The light difusser that is the rear mirror housing cover also has broke tabs, I'll have to get one.



The plastic in my drivers side visor is cracked, so it's loose. Another thing on the list to try and find someday if this car turns out to be a keeper.



The radiator hoses and heater hoses are original so I'll be replacing those asap. Also the other 2-3 water hoses while I have it drained. I wasn't planning on doing the thermostat as I have no issues, but maybe I should.



When I get deep into the project, some of my wish list:



rear hatch seal

new door seals

sunroof seal

new shift boot w plate

upper window seals under the top moulding



Todays work is done.



Fixed my rear view mirror without having to get a new one. Drilled holes in the mounting plate and used tiny screw and nut to hold the rear view mirror to the mounting plate and light. Cost: $1.50 in screws.



Removed my power antenna, it was unbelievably difficult to get it out that tiny hole near rear hatch. Turns out the previous owner had a rubber antenna just bolted to the broken power antenna stud. I will still use a rubber one, but I'll do it properly. I dont know if anyone buys those used OEM antennas, but the motor on mine still works, as I heard it running every day.



Bought sheet metal screws for all my back panels, screwed down every hole. Took out my spare tire, I'm missing the hold down bolt. I'll research on the bolt size and probably use something universal. Cuz I don't like the big sagging hole in my rear hatch.



Not much else to do now until my big parts order arrives. Maybe a wax, but its pouring rain right now.



PS, the oil leak has not come back yet. Total cost was $1 for 1 couple o-rings.

Passenger side window adjustment work.



These are the most simple door internals I have worked on in a while. I can make a video about it if anyone needs to see what that area looks like.



Problem:



My passenger side window doesn't seem to seal up in the top section, so I started the investigation.



(Remove your door panel first, 3-4 screws, then pop out the bottom.)



First step, disconnect your window from the regulator:



This is two screws into the bottom of the window. The screws go into two white clips that slide over the bottom of the window. Both screws were still surprisingly tight. So after disconnecting, you pull the window up by hand to the top, and slide a screwdriver (wrapped in a rag) along side it to hold it. Be careful not to scratch your window.



Second step, remove your window regulator:



Now with the window out of the way you can work on your regulator. The regulator is held in with 8 bolts. 6 towards the front of the door and 2 in the rear of door. The regulator comes out easily through the bottom hole, just go slow.



Third step, evaluation:



All my regulators moving parts were a bit dry, but not terrible. So I lubed up all the rollers and sliders and put it back in. It didnt increase the SPEED of the window much at all.



I then found another issue:



My window "runner" was all flattened in some spots, thus messing up the window travel. It had been that way so long is was permanent. I have ordered both inner and outer window moldings, and also a new window runner. The moldings were ok, but since I had it apart.. might as well. I also ordered some new door panel clips and the rubber sockets for them. After seeing how much regulators are, and considering mine still works.. I didn't order that part.



The bigger problem:



My window doesnt seem to be straight as it rolls up. The front part always seems to hang low. So the back of the window hits the top and the front has a 1/8" gap still. I don't see much adjustment available to fix this, as my regulator isn't very loose. I did see the front runner adjustment bolt, but its already all the way towards rear. Still, my front of the window isnt high enough.



Questions:



I will be searching about all this next, but if anyone has input:



Are the electric windows notoriously slow? Mine is steady, but seems a tad slow. Its not an issue of the regulator sticking as far as I know. I recall something about enlarging an adjustment slot somewhere, I'll check into that also.



I ordered these parts for this project:



1) 1 58-605C-8871 WINDOW CHANNEL $53.09 $53.09

2) 1 58-7910-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.84 $18.84

3) 1 58-7810-8871 WINDOW SEAL $18.29 $18.29

4) 2 68-4210-FA56-11 DOOR LOCK TRIM $5.80 $11.60

5) 2 72-5020-8544 WINDOW GROMMET $4.53 $9.06

6) 3 58-9210-0208 DOOR PANEL CLIP $0.88 $2.64

7) 8 58-9220-0187 DOOR PANEL CLIP $1.95 $15.60

Total: $129.12

yep greasing up the regulator is good. the adjustment of the window/door is by the 2 slotted holes in the back



2. these windows just arent that fast, but the grease does dry out on the regulator, and the power window SWITCH contacts do get dirty. they are super easy to pop apart, and a pencil eraser, or just about anything will clean em off, and the windows will speed up



3. the rubber run channel's important, i like to lube em once in a while too



its kinda funny, but you're doing the same things we used to do after buying one of these...



1. buy car

2. drive car home

3. rip doors apart, relube windows, dye door panels red.

4. repaint windsheild trim black

5. repaint wiper arms

LOL.. I've thought about painting my windhseild trim. I already have the entire top section off while I wait for some seals. But, my paint is crap, so i decided to just leave them speckled. Also, I dont want to remove the side and bottom moldings if i dont have to. I dont even know how to put the top one back on. I ordered new clips also, and I'll just have to figure it out.



Suppose I could do the wiper arms if I get real bored..



Lot of my interior is brown now.. instead of red.. I've thought about trying to restore it a bit.

interior is pretty easy to redye, and it makes it look 1000% percent better



wiper arms too, but its like a pet peeve of mine



window trim is kinda optional, it takes a lot of time to pull it off and paint it, and usually its not too bad anyways

Well.. my passenger window work went CRAPPY... I installed my new runner, and inner/outer moldings. Sure, theyre tight against the window.. I also installed new white clips which hold the window to the regulator. I also redrilled my front runner adjustment backward like everyone else..



But my window still doesnt go up straight.. only thing left is a worn out regulator..

yep, you can buy the regulator seperate from the motor. with motor its like $400, without motor its under $100

Ordered a new regulator for above.. ($192 without motor) .. just have to try the last part. If it still doesnt work I give up on that job and I'll unplug the window power.



Today:



I installed my winsheild upper molding back with the new weatherstrip attached. The weatherstrip sticks to the molding itself and costs about $15. (2 req for car). My weathstrip was gone, and there was a big hole there. I learned how to attach the molding snappers, and that the window seal itself can sometimes get in the way of the snappers seating properly. My molding is now back and snapped tight, with a nice weatherstrip back in place between the roof and molding.



It was a minor detail, but really stood out and looked crappy. Glad its fixed.

The passenger side new regulator worked! My window is now perfect. I had to move back my front runner to the stock bolt hole to get it to work properly. Now that whole door is done. I just have to let the window runner break in a bit.

I put in a new radiator from radiatorexpress.com today. I wasnt thrilled with the quality, but it was ok. I paid about $142 but the invoice taped to the box said $79.99. Thats quite a profit they make from drop shipping. Not to mention the styrafoam in the box was all crushed and rendered useless. I wouldnt say this is a reflection on radiatorexpress.com themselves, they just farm this stuff out.



So the side bars didnt line up quite right so I had to file them out a bit to get the bolts back in.



The biggest pain, the new radiator has a small size cap!! I already bought an expensive large OEM cap from Mazdatrix that I can't use now. I have to find out how I will determine the correct cap to use now..



I got everything reassembled, but i lost the mini hose thats right on top of the throttle body. I'll have to rig one, I dont want to wait another week.



The bad news is I still have an oil leak which looks like the oil pan, but could be futher back on the tranny. That determines I have to sell this. I cannot put any more money into it, I am over $1200 into it now in addition to the $2500 I paid. Oil leaks are my least favorite problem to deal with.



Its perfectly drivable as is, and i might drive it a few weeks for fun. But I am super **** about oil leaks and it will bother me every day with the stains. I dont want to do the oil pan just to find out its a rear main or something later.

clean it off really well, that area on the back of the pan is where stuff collects...

There is a very specific spot i always see the clean oil dripping. It looks like new oil, not dark at all. And it always seems to drip off the big rubber plug thing under the tranny bell housing. I hosed this all up before i started my work, so it was clean. Then i look today and theres another drip off the rubber plug. The car hasnt moved at all.

btw... did u get a PM i sent you today? I dont think my PMs are working. Its not in my Inbox.

oh thats different then, weird too

I got her running today. New hoses and radiator are great, no coolant leaks. But.. I now hear the throwout bearing.. so it needs a clutch soon. It still drives and shifts perfectly though, and the clutch feels tight. So, I advertised it for sale. If I can't get what I want for it, I'll put a new clutch in it and keep it a while. Think I can get a clutch job done for about $400?



anyway, I finally have pics to show now..



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-1.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-2.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-3.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-4.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-5.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-6.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-7.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-8.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-9.jpg



http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/images/rx7-10.jpg

I priced some estimates for a clutch job so i can make up my mind.



Parts came to about $300, including clutch disc and cover, TO bearing, pilot bearing and seal, front/rear trans seals, engine rear main, new pivot fork, front tranny cover and gasket..



I got a quote from a shop I trust for about 5 hours work which is $475.



I just don't know if I want to put another $800 into this car at this time..

Do it your self save some cash and keep the car!!!!

naw bro.. just not interested anymore.. its no fun having a project thats always on jackstands in the garage. If I did a clutch i'd have to do a tranny while i was at it since i had it out. it will just turn into $5k before i know it and i wasnt ready for that deep a project.



if this doesnt sell i can still drive it as-is for months i expect with zero issues. but i might just put a little more money into the drivers side window work if thats the case.

Thats kida thew way it goes with FB's unless u spend a lot of money on a really nice car. why would you wana replace the tranny? does it scratch or wine? If u want a rotary that u dont have to mess with it sure as hell isint a first gen.